[Jeep Momma]

I would probably even replace the oil pressure sender before replacing the pump. I've heard of those going bad before.

Ironically, I sold 2 of these today.
I also believe this part was redesigned... I think.

 

[White13JKUR]

Ironically, I sold 2 of these today.
I also believe this part was redesigned... I think.

Pretty sure it's a problematic part, just like the 2014+ cooler. I've never had a problem with mine but when I replaced the oil cooler assembly with a new Mopar unit, it came with a new oil temp sensor and a new pressure sensor.

 

[Jeep Momma]

Pretty sure it's a problematic part, just like the 2014+ cooler. I've never had a problem with mine but when I replaced the oil cooler assembly with a new Mopar unit, it came with a new oil temp sensor and a new pressure sensor.

You got lucky! The new ones we are getting in don't include those parts.
The aftermarket one I bought earlier this year didn't either.

WELCOME

 

[ChrisN8688]

Disagree. Oil pumps and regulators usaually last a very long time in terms of age and mileage and neither of those were stated. It is more likely an oil filter issue or possibly an obstruction. The obstruction could be something stuck in the oil path from when the cooler housing was replaced or it could be an obstructed oil pickup tube. I would probably even replace the oil pressure sender before replacing the pump. I've heard of those going bad before.

The leakinging OEM housing could cause a drop in pressure and using the wrong filter in the new aluminum housing could also cause a drop in pressure. The OP says that there's a K&N filter installed.

@ChrisN8688

What year is your jeep and how many miles are on it?

The first thing I would do is to swap the K&N filter out for the one that came with the oil filter housing kit. If you don't have that, then just get a stock filter for a 2014+ Pentastar. The 2012-2013 filters are different and will cause a drop in pressure if you use one in the 2014+ style housing. You're going to have to use the 2014+ filters from now on, even if you have a 2012-2013 jeep.

I also recommend that you pick up an OBD-II interface and a phone app like Torque Pro or JScan. I have both. You can check the oil pressure and oil temperature in real time as well as pull any codes in memory. Check that the oil pressure is per the factory spec that I posted earlier.
This interface works with both apps:

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

If you do end up replacing the oil pump, it's an expensive "assembly" that includes the electronic pressure regulator. It's pretty straight forward to replace. I had mine out at 90k miles when I did the head gaskets. I pulled the oil pan so that i could inspect the rod and crank bearings as well as the oil pump. Everything looked pristine so I just put it all back together. The hardest part will be getting the oil pan off becuase it's really glued on there pretty good. The other tricky thing will removing the wire harness connecter from the block. The wiring harness connector comes off pretty easily, it's just the portion that is inside the engine that can be tricky to get out without breaking it. You'll need a tube of the Mopar ThreeBond to seal the uppper and lower oil pans. I would also replace the o-ring between the pump and the oil pickup tube.

Its a 2014

Disagree. Oil pumps and regulators usaually last a very long time in terms of age and mileage and neither of those were stated. It is more likely an oil filter issue or possibly an obstruction. The obstruction could be something stuck in the oil path from when the cooler housing was replaced or it could be an obstructed oil pickup tube. I would probably even replace the oil pressure sender before replacing the pump. I've heard of those going bad before.

The leakinging OEM housing could cause a drop in pressure and using the wrong filter in the new aluminum housing could also cause a drop in pressure. The OP says that there's a K&N filter installed.

@ChrisN8688

What year is your jeep and how many miles are on it?

The first thing I would do is to swap the K&N filter out for the one that came with the oil filter housing kit. If you don't have that, then just get a stock filter for a 2014+ Pentastar. The 2012-2013 filters are different and will cause a drop in pressure if you use one in the 2014+ style housing. You're going to have to use the 2014+ filters from now on, even if you have a 2012-2013 jeep.

I also recommend that you pick up an OBD-II interface and a phone app like Torque Pro or JScan. I have both. You can check the oil pressure and oil temperature in real time as well as pull any codes in memory. Check that the oil pressure is per the factory spec that I posted earlier.
This interface works with both apps:

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

If you do end up replacing the oil pump, it's an expensive "assembly" that includes the electronic pressure regulator. It's pretty straight forward to replace. I had mine out at 90k miles when I did the head gaskets. I pulled the oil pan so that i could inspect the rod and crank bearings as well as the oil pump. Everything looked pristine so I just put it all back together. The hardest part will be getting the oil pan off becuase it's really glued on there pretty good. The other tricky thing will removing the wire harness connecter from the block. The wiring harness connector comes off pretty easily, it's just the portion that is inside the engine that can be tricky to get out without breaking it. You'll need a tube of the Mopar ThreeBond to seal the uppper and lower oil pans. I would also replace the o-ring between the pump and the oil pickup tube.

It’s a 2014 with 115,000 miles

 

[fzmax]

After changing a leaky cooler on my wife's 14 it got the code and oil light. Turns out the sensor read low. I swaped the oil pressure sender from the leaky cooler and it has been fine since. It was a Mopar cooler with the sensor pre-installed.

 

[White13JKUR]

You got lucky! The new ones we are getting in don't include those parts.
The aftermarket one I bought earlier this year didn't either.

WELCOME

Maybe you are using the wrong part number? I wouldn't expect the aftermarket options to come with the sensors.

2011-2013 Mopar Engine Oil Filter Housing 5184294AE | Mopar Original Parts - Merrick Jeep

2011-2013 Mopar Engine Oil Filter Housing 5184294AE

parts.jeepsareus.com

 

[Jeep Momma]

Maybe you are using the wrong part number? I wouldn't expect the aftermarket options to come with the sensors.

2011-2013 Mopar Engine Oil Filter Housing 5184294AE | Mopar Original Parts - Merrick Jeep

2011-2013 Mopar Engine Oil Filter Housing 5184294AE

parts.jeepsareus.com

That part number is for 2011 to 2013.
6959 6317AA is what you get when you search for 2014 plus. The box yesterday didn't have the sensors. they want you to use the old ones.

Good to know when you call to make an order at the dealer.

 

[ChrisN8688]

Thank you everyone for your help! I’m going to work on it this Saturday. I will let you know what I find out.

 

[Drivercoke]

Disagree. Oil pumps and regulators usaually last a very long time in terms of age and mileage and neither of those were stated. It is more likely an oil filter issue or possibly an obstruction. The obstruction could be something stuck in the oil path from when the cooler housing was replaced or it could be an obstructed oil pickup tube. I would probably even replace the oil pressure sender before replacing the pump. I've heard of those going bad before.

The leakinging OEM housing could cause a drop in pressure and using the wrong filter in the new aluminum housing could also cause a drop in pressure. The OP says that there's a K&N filter installed.

@ChrisN8688

What year is your jeep and how many miles are on it?

The first thing I would do is to swap the K&N filter out for the one that came with the oil filter housing kit. If you don't have that, then just get a stock filter for a 2014+ Pentastar. The 2012-2013 filters are different and will cause a drop in pressure if you use one in the 2014+ style housing. You're going to have to use the 2014+ filters from now on, even if you have a 2012-2013 jeep.

I also recommend that you pick up an OBD-II interface and a phone app like Torque Pro or JScan. I have both. You can check the oil pressure and oil temperature in real time as well as pull any codes in memory. Check that the oil pressure is per the factory spec that I posted earlier.
This interface works with both apps:

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

If you do end up replacing the oil pump, it's an expensive "assembly" that includes the electronic pressure regulator. It's pretty straight forward to replace. I had mine out at 90k miles when I did the head gaskets. I pulled the oil pan so that i could inspect the rod and crank bearings as well as the oil pump. Everything looked pristine so I just put it all back together. The hardest part will be getting the oil pan off becuase it's really glued on there pretty good. The other tricky thing will removing the wire harness connecter from the block. The wiring harness connector comes off pretty easily, it's just the portion that is inside the engine that can be tricky to get out without breaking it. You'll need a tube of the Mopar ThreeBond to seal the uppper and lower oil pans. I would also replace the o-ring between the pump and the oil pickup tube.

I have the same scanner and I love it. It gives real time scans.

 

[BlueBabySound]

As luck would have it the latest cold snap did in the cooler for our 2018.
I have the Dorman on order.

 

[jdsilvaz99]

I have the Dorman part as well, complete upper and lower. I need to buy new Mopar sensors, then I will be installing it. My 2015 has just about 23,000 miles on it. When I got my new tires installed, they said the oil cooler housing was leaking. I bought it a few months ago from O'Reilly. At the time, they said there were only 3 shown on their system, and they were all back East. I'm in California. Maybe Dorman production is up to speed now. You can find cheaper all aluminum versions on Amazon. I bought one for $100 bucks in case the Dorman part didn't show up. The Amazon part looks great, and came with new sensors. The Dorman part does not include sensors, and is not put together. The Amazon part is completely assembled, and looks nice. Here is the Amazon link. Price has gone up.

Amazon.com: LUFT MEISTER 926-959 926-876 Aluminum Engine Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Adapter Assembly,Compatible With 2011-2016 Chrysler 200 300,Dodge Ram ProMaster Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 5184294AE : Automotive

Rating: - reviews. Buy LUFT MEISTER 926-959 926-876 Aluminum Engine Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Adapter Assembly,Compatible With 2011-2016 Chrysler 200 300,Dodge Ram ProMaster Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 5184294AE on Amazon.com and confirm correct fitment online.

www.amazon.com

 

[BlueBabySound]

There were no coolers available when our '18 went out the first time, so I put a china plastic in. It did not last very long.
I know, apples and oranges

 

[pamar66]

Nope

My 2016 JKU 75Th Anniversary with 55k miles was covered under Jeep powertrain warranty when i had it replaced in Jan 2023. It came with a 7year/100k mile Jeep Powertrain warranty when I purchased it as a “Certified Pre Owned” in Aug 2018. I didn’t pay anything extra for the Warranty it came with the vehicle, would have been $2200 for me, as both the oil cooler and the main seal failed from that Dec 2022 cold blast we had. This is a DEFECT and should be covered for the life of the vehicle.

WHAT DOES THE JEEP® BRAND CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED WARRANTY COVER?

Jeep® Brand Certified Pre-Owned vehicles are accompanied by a 7-year/100,000-Mile Powertrain Limited WarrantyDisclaimer: Contact your dealer for complete details and a copy of the Powertrain Limited Warranty. and the 3-month/3,000-Mile Maximum Care CoverageDisclaimer: Contact your dealer for complete details and a copy of the Maximum Care Coverage.. They offer peace of mind for the long road. Plus, you can choose from available Lifetime Certified Warranty Upgrades.

 

[jdsilvaz99]

My 2016 JKU 75Th Anniversary with 55k miles was covered under Jeep powertrain warranty when i had it replaced in Jan 2023. It came with a 7year/100k mile Jeep Powertrain warranty when I purchased it as a “Certified Pre Owned” in Aug 2018. I didn’t pay anything extra for the Warranty it came with the vehicle, would have been $2200 for me, as both the oil cooler and the main seal failed from that Dec 2022 cold blast we had. This is a DEFECT and should be covered for the life of the vehicle.
.

Glad you got it covered for free this time. It will leak again if they used the factory plastic part. The Dorman part is the way to go next time

 

[Old Dogger]

Yes, some of them will leak. But it is a very low percentage of them that will have this issue. There has been over 10 million 3.6 engines sold as of current.

 

[pamar66]

Glad you got it covered for free this time. It will leak again if they used the factory plastic part. The Dorman part is the way to go next time

From what I was told, the latest incarnation of the Mopar part corrects many past issues with leaking, who knows, I will let them fix while under warranty, and when no longer under warranty, until 04/2024 or 100k, and if this happens again, I’ll go with the Dorman part, still not confident enough to do myself though, my local mechanic has the same exact vehicle. What would be cool would be a “meet and greet” of 3-4 guys, with the problem, and all do together, give each other a hand. Sometimes you need another set of hands, or a tool you may not have.

 

[pamar66]

Glad you got it covered for free this time. It will leak again if they used the factory plastic part. The Dorman part is the way to go next time

Z z

Yes, some of them will leak. But it is a very low percentage of them that will have this issue. There has been over 10 million 3.6 engines sold as of current.

yeah, mine happened due to the cold wave, as did 2 friends of mine. I do all my own oil changes, and NEVER over tighten the cap, which is probably the reason for 60-70% of the leaking issues.

 

[Wilson Ramos]

Glad you got it covered for free this time. It will leak again if they used the factory plastic part. The Dorman part is the way to go next time

I installed the dorman part and every 3 to 6 months i have to replace the dam o rings. used dorman, felt pro and jeep dealership o rings brand and still leaking oil after a few months. I'm going back to oem.

 

[jdsilvaz99]

I installed the dorman part and every 3 to 6 months i have to replace the dam o rings. used dorman, felt pro and jeep dealership o rings brand and still leaking oil after a few months. I'm going back to oem.

Oh... that's not good. How long ago did you install the Dorman part? I haven't had any issues yet. Hasn't been a year yet. Had it done back in June, this year.

 

[Old Dogger]

I installed the dorman part and every 3 to 6 months i have to replace the dam o rings. used dorman, felt pro and jeep dealership o rings brand and still leaking oil after a few months. I'm going back to oem.

Welcome to the Forum!
Good call on OEM…..