nice, hope it works out for u. kicking myself in the butt for not replacing my 12 one with a newer style when i did my sprintex

 

Interesting. Had mine fail on my '12 just before the extended warranty ran out. We'll see how OEM replacement holds up. Thanks for posting this!

FWIW this will work on '12/'13 models but will require a new 14+ Mopar housing to go with it since they're a different design. Different cap, filter and oil cooler.

 

Interesting. Had mine fail on my '12 just before the extended warranty ran out. We'll see how OEM replacement holds up. Thanks for posting this!

 

hello, curious how it’s going? I need to replace mine in a 15’ Wrangler. Would love some thoughts on how it’s holding up so far. Thanks in advance.

 

No issues so far.

 

Is this something that us with a 2018 JK should worry about? I thought the oil housing was fixed in 2015?

 

Our '18 JK failed at 60,000 miles.

 

I have seen a lot f the OEM housings leak. All years.
FCA stopped replacing the housings for a while and under warranty you were only allowed to replace the o-rings at the bottom of the housings. The o-ring fix repaired most of them.

Just in my experience, please make up your own mind. We have a 10 bay shop and we have not done any of these repairs on our own customers. When one comes in for a leak it always has a Lube shop sticker on the windshield. Being that you put a ratchet on the housing I feel that over torqueing is the biggest cause of failure.

 

Any leak with the aluminum housing? Have you noticed any leaks around the filter cover? Is there a torque spec with the new oil filter housing?

 

No leaks, so far it's been good.
I haven't seen a torque spec for the cap, I posted the instructions above and it doesn't list one.

Welcome to the forum!

 

I've had a slight leak in my oil cooler housing but was holding off for the new Dorman metal housing. Got an email from Rock Auto last week that the part was in stock so I ordered one along with a new Mopar assembly so all the parts would be new.
I used the Mopar oil cap/filter, cooler (and screws) and sensors. The Dorman unit came with new gaskets and mounting screws.

I'll do my best to follow up as I put some miles on the unit. I suspect the real test will be if we have an unusually cold winter, which killed the coolers this year on our '14 and '18.

I've had a slight leak in my oil cooler housing but was holding off for the new Dorman metal housing. Got an email from Rock Auto last week that the part was in stock so I ordered one along with a new Mopar assembly so all the parts would be new.
I used the Mopar oil cap/filter, cooler (and screws) and sensors. The Dorman unit came with new gaskets and mounting screws.

I'll do my best to follow up as I put some miles on the unit. I suspect the real test will be if we have an unusually cold winter, which killed the coolers this year on our '14 and '18.

Hello, will this part fit a 13 wrangler Sarah unlimited?

 

I found this on EBAY complete assembly including upper and lower intake gaskets and new hardware to mount the base to the engine. Comes assembled & ready to install, I've had no issues with fitting it to my 2012 JKU, only have about 1000 miles so far but so far so good!

 

Yes, but will require a new '14-'16 Mopar housing to go with it since they're a different design. Different cap, filter and oil cooler.
You could order the individual parts but they haven't been available for a while (last I checked), so in that case an entire housing is your best bet.

 

Just something to keep in mind: while the OEM plastic thing may be a possible source for headaches and misery, make sure that if you decide to "upgrade" for aluminum version it better come from a reputable brand. Not all aluminum castings are equal, and they may prove to be made of chinesium...

 

Does anyone have a Dorman 926-876 they won't use? I have been trying to find one, but they seem to be out everywhere.................

 

Mine is on a Brown Truck I am praying it arrives on Wednesday. I will sell it to you for $5K. LOL Just kidding.

Try the O'reilly's Commercial Desk to see if they can help you. That's where I found mine.

I am also told by a guy who works for MOPAR the Stock replacement, the plastic one, shows it is in stock. I never called the dealership to find out put the computer shows it is in stock. However, 3 parts stores says you cant get the OEM part anymore. OH... the plastic part is $160 more than the Dorman Aluminum.

 

Might be too little too late but @RockAuto is a forum supporter and I believe they offer a forum discount. Maybe check with them?

 

IDK how many miles you have when you do this mod but...Mine had 40k miles I suggest you change the plugs, belt, and don't skimp on quality gaskets. If your going to update the cooling system now's the time. I basically did this job twice but it was a lot easier the 2nd time around 🙄. One of my plugs had a blown out insulator which this was the first time I've ever seen this in a stock engine. The 2nd time around I installed new silicone hoses and a tstat housing. I came really close to changing the water pump but ...

 

Ok, good to know. I watched some videos on the spark plug change. This would certainly be the time to do it. My 2015 just turned over 17,000 miles, so plugs are probably good, but heck, it's apart, I might pull them out for a look, and decide if I want to put in fresh ones. Dorman is working on an aluminum T-Stat housing, but I don't think it's available yet. Belts and Hoses are all factory, but since age can be a factor, as well as mileage, I might just replace them. I'll have to check and see if FlowKooler makes a water pump for this engine. Heck, might change out to Mishimoto radiator too. I see Griffin, AFE and ColdCase make radiators as well. I have some reading to do.

 

Hi everyone,
Decided to join because I’m looking for some help with the oil pressure red can coming up on my dash.

I just replaced my oil filter housing because I got a check engine oil pressure light came on. I noticed a pool of oil in the valley of the motor.

I installed Dorman aluminum filter housing and changed the oil 5-20 penzoil synthetic.

Every time I come to a stop the red oil can comes up then when I hit the gas and start moving it goes out I’m stumped if anyone can help me out that would be great thank you!

 

Welcome to JKO.
Have you attached a scanner to check for any codes?
Did you verify that your oil level is within adequate range?
Did you use a mopar filter or third party?

@White13JKUR has done these swaps. I'm wondering if he has any comments about the pressure sender.

 

Welcome to JKO.
Have you attached a scanner to check for any codes?
Did you verify that your oil level is within adequate range?
Did you use a mopar filter or third party?

@White13JKUR has done these swaps. I'm wondering if he has any comments about the pressure sender.

Not sure they can get mixed up but... on the stock cooler, the oil pressure sensor should be the one on the bottom and the oil temp sensor is the one on the top.

With an OBD-II to BlueTooth interface and an app like Torque, you can monitor oil temperature and oil pressure real time.

I use the stock Mopar filter and have read that some of the aftermarket filters can be too restrictive, causing lower oil pressure.

The oil pump has a two stage electronic pressure regulator. In low pressure mode (idle to ~3,000 RPM) it should have about 29PSI. In high pressure mode (above ~3,000RPM), it should have about 65PSI.

 

It gave me a code before I changed the oil filter housing I can’t remember the number but when I looked it up it came up as low oil pressure

Oil level is good
Running a k&n oil filter

 

It gave me a code before I changed the oil filter housing I can’t remember the number but when I looked it up it came up as low oil pressure

Oil level is good
Running a k&n oil filter

If you didn't clear the codes then it should still be in memory.

The K&N is supposed to filter a little better than the stock filter. It might be more restrictive as well, which could cause a lower oil pressure. Check the pressures as I described above.

 

Everything points to a worn out pump or a pressure regulator/relief valve (if Pentastar has one).

 

Disagree. Oil pumps and regulators usaually last a very long time in terms of age and mileage and neither of those were stated. It is more likely an oil filter issue or possibly an obstruction. The obstruction could be something stuck in the oil path from when the cooler housing was replaced or it could be an obstructed oil pickup tube. I would probably even replace the oil pressure sender before replacing the pump. I've heard of those going bad before.

The leakinging OEM housing could cause a drop in pressure and using the wrong filter in the new aluminum housing could also cause a drop in pressure. The OP says that there's a K&N filter installed.

@ChrisN8688

What year is your jeep and how many miles are on it?

The first thing I would do is to swap the K&N filter out for the one that came with the oil filter housing kit. If you don't have that, then just get a stock filter for a 2014+ Pentastar. The 2012-2013 filters are different and will cause a drop in pressure if you use one in the 2014+ style housing. You're going to have to use the 2014+ filters from now on, even if you have a 2012-2013 jeep.

I also recommend that you pick up an OBD-II interface and a phone app like Torque Pro or JScan. I have both. You can check the oil pressure and oil temperature in real time as well as pull any codes in memory. Check that the oil pressure is per the factory spec that I posted earlier.
This interface works with both apps:

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

Amazon.com: TONWON Car OBD2 Code Readers, OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool Car Diagnostic Tool Vehicle Scanner for iOS and Andiord : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

If you do end up replacing the oil pump, it's an expensive "assembly" that includes the electronic pressure regulator. It's pretty straight forward to replace. I had mine out at 90k miles when I did the head gaskets. I pulled the oil pan so that i could inspect the rod and crank bearings as well as the oil pump. Everything looked pristine so I just put it all back together. The hardest part will be getting the oil pan off becuase it's really glued on there pretty good. The other tricky thing will removing the wire harness connecter from the block. The wiring harness connector comes off pretty easily, it's just the portion that is inside the engine that can be tricky to get out without breaking it. You'll need a tube of the Mopar ThreeBond to seal the uppper and lower oil pans. I would also replace the o-ring between the pump and the oil pickup tube.

 

Original error code was P0520 that’s when I noticed the oil in the valley of the motor and changed out the oil filter housing

 

I don’t have a scanner but my alpine stereo is connected to the obd 2 and it will give me a code if one comes up I’m coming to order a mopar filter that would be great if that was the issue so I won’t have to pull it all apart again

Unless your Alpine stereo as advanced OBD-II features it would be better to get the OBD-II interface linked above and a phone app. JScan lets you do a lot of Jeep-specific changes and Torque is pretty good for diagnostics.

It's not uncommon that the oil pressure sender goes bad. You'll have to pull the intake manifolds back off to get to it. Part number for yours should be: 5149062AA

Between replacing the filter and the sender, I think you'll fix this. The advice to replace the oil pump is wrong, especially without checking the actual pressure first.

 

After changing a leaky cooler on my wife's 14 it got the code and oil light. Turns out the sensor read low. I swaped the oil pressure sender from the leaky cooler and it has been fine since. It was a Mopar cooler with the sensor pre-installed.

 

Thank you everyone for your help! I’m going to work on it this Saturday. I will let you know what I find out.

 

As luck would have it the latest cold snap did in the cooler for our 2018.
I have the Dorman on order.

 

I have the Dorman part as well, complete upper and lower. I need to buy new Mopar sensors, then I will be installing it. My 2015 has just about 23,000 miles on it. When I got my new tires installed, they said the oil cooler housing was leaking. I bought it a few months ago from O'Reilly. At the time, they said there were only 3 shown on their system, and they were all back East. I'm in California. Maybe Dorman production is up to speed now. You can find cheaper all aluminum versions on Amazon. I bought one for $100 bucks in case the Dorman part didn't show up. The Amazon part looks great, and came with new sensors. The Dorman part does not include sensors, and is not put together. The Amazon part is completely assembled, and looks nice. Here is the Amazon link. Price has gone up.

Amazon.com: LUFT MEISTER 926-959 926-876 Aluminum Engine Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Adapter Assembly,Compatible With 2011-2016 Chrysler 200 300,Dodge Ram ProMaster Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 5184294AE : Automotive

Rating: - reviews. Buy LUFT MEISTER 926-959 926-876 Aluminum Engine Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Adapter Assembly,Compatible With 2011-2016 Chrysler 200 300,Dodge Ram ProMaster Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 5184294AE on Amazon.com and confirm correct fitment online.

www.amazon.com

 

There were no coolers available when our '18 went out the first time, so I put a china plastic in. It did not last very long.
I know, apples and oranges

 

Yes, some of them will leak. But it is a very low percentage of them that will have this issue. There has been over 10 million 3.6 engines sold as of current.

 

That definitely sounds like there is a aluminum burr somewhere in the part that chafes the o-rings.