[gt1guy]

What is the consensus of which oil pan to run on the LS. My crate LS came with the vette pan on it. I've read more than a few threads on Pirate where guys have smoked LS's while running the vette pans.

Is there a better option out there for an oil pan for use off road? I do plan on plumbing an Accusump to the engine.

 

[Dkjeep]

Is that just when the angles are high or they smoked them just driving around?

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[gt1guy]

Is that just when the angles are high or they smoked them just driving around?

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Nose up/down. The stock pans are designed for lateral G's (like going around corners on the street).

 

[0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME]

We have had pretty good luck with the truck or Holley LSX pans. The hold a good amount of oil and are very slim on the front.

We have run the stock LS3 crate pans on several without any issues. You will want to verify the clearance to the axle under full compression, you don't want your axle to come up and kiss the aluminum oil pan. A fabricated steel pan would probably take abuse and rocks better without cracking. Overall the LS3 pan is way up in the frame and is pretty well protected from most rocks.

I would think nose down would be the only time you would have to worry. But in reality are you going to be parking your Jeep on its front bumper? It would take a pretty good angle to loose oil pressure.


Check out LS1TECH they have a good writeup on oil pans http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html

 

[0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME]

I could probably add the CAN message to the EZcanbus module. We would monitor the GM oil pressure and if its goes below a set point we would send the message on the Jeep side to turn on the Low Oil Light. Heck for that matter we could shut off the engine if you lost oil pressure. But I would rather not shut anything down just in case your oil sending unit failed the Jeep wouldn't run.

I will put it on the list of items to look into.... No promises. Just not enough time in the day :faint:

 

[MoTech]

We have supported driving the oil pressure indicator on the cluster off the GM engine oil pressure signal for years, it is required. The trigger point is fully programmable within our bridge. If running the OE GM calibration oil aeration and low oil protection modes are built in; however, if you get a low OP light turn off the engine ASAP.

The truck pan has a deeper but narrower sump and holds 6.6 Quarts, the LS3 pan holds 8 quarts but is not as deep. It s very important if you have an AFM engine you run an oil pan with the AFM oil pressure regulator, I have seen more than one damaged engine due to this mistake.

I have not had complaints regarding oil starvation with the LS though. Any engine is going to have issues if run vertical long enough, you may consider a dry sump set up like the LS7. I have a couple of Hemi's in here we are converting to LS's and I know at least one customer had engine and oil starvation issues on the trail and is running extra oil in the crankcase, one reason he is looking forward to his LS.

 

[Nucleophile]

We have supported driving the oil pressure indicator on the cluster off the GM engine oil pressure signal for years, it is required.

Just curious, required by whom or why?

It seems that current OEM dogma is to "keep the human in the dark". Example number 1. The JK temp gauge. It basically stays "in the middle" through a very wide temperature range. Off the top of my head, from about 180 to about 225 degrees. From about 225 to 240 it clicks over a tad. It is there to make the human happy.

Example number 2. I stopped over at a friend’s shop. He was doing a tear down on a Cummins engine out of a Dodge truck. It seems that Dodge (Ram) decided that as long as the engine oil pressure sensor saw at least 2 psi of oil pressure, it instructed the gauge to display 32 psi. It seems Dodge (Ram) got tired of customers taking trucks into the dealers with complaints of “low oil pressure”. So they “fixed” it. Well the guy who owns the truck drove it around for a week while it was making noise because all the gauges looked find – good oil pressure, good temps. Turns out he was driving around with 2 psi of oil pressure. At least one main bearing was toast, not sure what else as the tear down was in progress.
So your “required” comment struck me as odd. Could you elaborate? Thanks!

 

[CT Performance Inc]

Their is a reason they are called idiot gauges...

 

[0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME]

Just curious, required by whom or why?

It seems that current OEM dogma is to "keep the human in the dark". Example number 1. The JK temp gauge. It basically stays "in the middle" through a very wide temperature range. Off the top of my head, from about 180 to about 225 degrees. From about 225 to 240 it clicks over a tad. It is there to make the human happy.

Example number 2. I stopped over at a friend’s shop. He was doing a tear down on a Cummins engine out of a Dodge truck. It seems that Dodge (Ram) decided that as long as the engine oil pressure sensor saw at least 2 psi of oil pressure, it instructed the gauge to display 32 psi. It seems Dodge (Ram) got tired of customers taking trucks into the dealers with complaints of “low oil pressure”. So they “fixed” it. Well the guy who owns the truck drove it around for a week while it was making noise because all the gauges looked find – good oil pressure, good temps. Turns out he was driving around with 2 psi of oil pressure. At least one main bearing was toast, not sure what else as the tear down was in progress.
So your “required” comment struck me as odd. Could you elaborate? Thanks!

This is true. if the light is on or it says hot your probably to late.

One thing we did do with our EZcan is make the Jeep gauge accurate and responsive. If you drive one of our swaps you will notice the temp gauge will mirror exactly what the engine is without a delay. Its really handy to see how the cooling system is doing but could be a little worrisome if your used to the gauge never moving from 1/2.

 

[Nucleophile]

Their is a reason they are called idiot gauges...

I have heard of idiot lights, as in by the time it comes on it is too late, idiot. But not idiot gauges. And when an OEM puts an actual numerical value on a gauge that is not the true reading, well that is down right deceptive. When people see a temperature gauge, they assume it is an analog gauge, like they used to be. Not any more. It is just there to mislead.

 

[CT Performance Inc]

I don't disagree but its been this way for a long time.

 

[Nucleophile]

I don't disagree but its been this way for a long time.

Well excuse me. The only cars I have really paid attention to the gauges, prior to the JK, have been corvettes. And the gauges in those cars are legit. They need to be. When you are on the track you need to keep track of your coolant and oil temps (among other things). That is about the only time I really pay attention to the gauges.

As for regular cars, I just assumed the gauges were at least representative of what was going on. Perhaps I should not have assumed that what Chevy does in vettes carries over to other cars / brands. My bad.

 

[D94R]

This is true. if the light is on or it says hot your probably to late.

One thing we did do with our EZcan is make the Jeep gauge accurate and responsive. If you drive one of our swaps you will notice the temp gauge will mirror exactly what the engine is without a delay. Its really handy to see how the cooling system is doing but could be a little worrisome if your used to the gauge never moving from 1/2.

That was one of the first things I noticed as the jeep warmed up the first time; gauge was instantly moving and tracking the temp. I like that a lot.

 

[wuqi]

I got 2011 Rubi JK with 6.2l LS3/525hp crate engine and 5 speed NV4500. It was built 5 years ago by Rock Solid Performance (RSP) using Motech kit. Gordon & Robert of RSP did one heck of a built (thank u guys). The LS is amazing and enduring.

I timed 0-60 accl on 35s and 4.10 ratio. The best i got was 7 sec flat. I thought with such setup it would be low 5s!

Does that sound reasonable?

Any tips to improve accl?

 

[gt1guy]

Here's what I've decided to go with. The Tilden Motorsports Pro Series LSx Sheet Metal Oil Pan. I'll also plumb in a 3qt Accusump to the system.

Tilden Motorsports Pro Series LSx Sheet Metal Oil Pans

It's very close in dimensions to the Holley 302-1, but it's not cast. Holley 302-1 LS Retro Fit Oil Pan Dimensions

I don't want a cast pan because they don't ding or dent, they break into pieces. I realize nothing is going to work as good as a drysump. That was more complexity than I wanted to start out with on this project.

I shouldn't have to worry about the front axle hitting the pan. Front end is being pushed forward to make the double triangulated 4-link uppers clear the engine. Though that does mean I have to put more thought into what I do for skid plates.

I'm going to run a set of old school gauges on the dash bar of the cage. Maybe I'm just old, but I like gauges.

 

[0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME]

I'm going to run a set of old school gauges on the dash bar of the cage. Maybe I'm just old, but I like gauges.

Don't run a set of "old School" gauges. Be a cool kid and run a dual set of Aeroforce digital OBD2 gauges. I have been running a dual set in mine and love them. You can view 4 parameters at a time. They plug directly into the OBD2 port on the GM side and can read a wide variety or parameters. No need to add extra sending units or wires.
They can read and clear codes, set oil psi or temp warning limits, 0-60 times etc... you can also add a wideband o2 and view it from the gauge also.

 

[gt1guy]

Don't run a set of "old School" gauges. Be a cool kid and run a dual set of Aeroforce digital OBD2 gauges. I have been running a dual set in mine and love them. You can view 4 parameters at a time. They plug directly into the OBD2 port on the GM side and can read a wide variety or parameters. No need to add extra sending units or wires.
They can read and clear codes, set oil psi or temp warning limits, 0-60 times etc... you can also add a wideband o2 and view it from the gauge also.

Well shit. I'll have to look in to this.

Oh and I picked up a 6l90e from a 2015 2500 truck. It was a transit damage, only has 3 miles on it.

 

[coilrod]

I have had zero luck with aeroforce. One blew an internal fuse after warranty but they did fix it for me. Came back "updated" as a Cadillac Guage. Worked almost a year.

 

[89yjon]

Well shit. I'll have to look in to this.

Oh and I picked up a 6l90e from a 2015 2500 truck. It was a transit damage, only has 3 miles on it.

Just curious where you found that deal? Thats how I am trying to find an engine and trans for my swap but not sure where to look...

 

[Dkjeep]

Just curious where you found that deal? Thats how I am trying to find an engine and trans for my swap but not sure where to look...

I scored a 6l80e from the same place he got his yesterday with 14k miles on it for $1925 to the door. The deals are out there