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I started by shopping Ebay and found a complete drop-out for $4k for my swap. Instead of buying through Ebay since it was a Buy It Now auction I just called the yard and bought it over the phone. Not the cheapest as I see the engines and tranny's sold seperate for less, however it was a 'sealed' pack so I knew it all came together, worked together, and I wasn't having to piece it together.

My drop-out came from Reno's Auto Parts, out of Hillsboro Ohio.
Renos Auto Parts | New and Used Auto Parts Ohio
 
I got 2011 Rubi JK with 6.2l LS3/525hp crate engine and 5 speed NV4500. It was built 5 years ago by Rock Solid Performance (RSP) using Motech kit. Gordon & Robert of RSP did one heck of a built (thank u guys). The LS is amazing and enduring.

I timed 0-60 accl on 35s and 4.10 ratio. The best i got was 7 sec flat. I thought with such setup it would be low 5s!

Does that sound reasonable?

Any tips to improve accl?
No, sounds slow. Is the motor tuned or do you have some generic tune on it?
 
I have had zero luck with aeroforce. One blew an internal fuse after warranty but they did fix it for me. Came back "updated" as a Cadillac Guage. Worked almost a year.
You can change the display. Mine originally booted up as CTSV
 
I got 2011 Rubi JK with 6.2l LS3/525hp crate engine and 5 speed NV4500. It was built 5 years ago by Rock Solid Performance (RSP) using Motech kit. Gordon & Robert of RSP did one heck of a built (thank u guys). The LS is amazing and enduring.

I timed 0-60 accl on 35s and 4.10 ratio. The best i got was 7 sec flat. I thought with such setup it would be low 5s!

Does that sound reasonable?

Any tips to improve accl?
My guess is the slow shifting transmission, the NVG 4500 is more oriented for a truck. I would say if you went to a Tremec 6 speed or 6l80 your time would pick up considerably. I assume you are making at least one shift to 60mph? We are seeing under 7 second 0-60 times with LS3's and 6l80's.
 
Just curious, required by whom or why?

It seems that current OEM dogma is to "keep the human in the dark". Example number 1. The JK temp gauge. It basically stays "in the middle" through a very wide temperature range. Off the top of my head, from about 180 to about 225 degrees. From about 225 to 240 it clicks over a tad. It is there to make the human happy.
Running a low oil pressure indicator is simply required. If you lose oil pressure you need an indicator to warn you so you can take action. A couple times in my career I lost oil pressure and the warning indicator saved the engine. On one occasion the filter gasket failed and I lost all the oil but shut off the engine in time to save it, an old 283 SBC.

Your not far off. Chrysler calls their coolant temp gauge a "Customer satisfaction gauge". They put the needle near center over a wide range of temps because it makes you feel better. In reality a accurate gauge is better. Personally I think we should all have enhanced scan gauges in our Jeeps regardless of the engine. Use a Bluetooth adapter and an app if you don't want to spend a lot on a gauge.
 
I have had zero luck with aeroforce. One blew an internal fuse after warranty but they did fix it for me. Came back "updated" as a Cadillac Guage. Worked almost a year.
Scroll to the "logo" menu. There it will give you several choices, I like "SS". Todd at AF is working on a custom logo for us if you are interested.
 
Here's what I've decided to go with. The Tilden Motorsports Pro Series LSx Sheet Metal Oil Pan. I'll also plumb in a 3qt Accusump to the system.

Tilden Motorsports Pro Series LSx Sheet Metal Oil Pans

It's very close in dimensions to the Holley 302-1, but it's not cast. Holley 302-1 LS Retro Fit Oil Pan Dimensions

I don't want a cast pan because they don't ding or dent, they break into pieces. I realize nothing is going to work as good as a drysump. That was more complexity than I wanted to start out with on this project.

I shouldn't have to worry about the front axle hitting the pan. Front end is being pushed forward to make the double triangulated 4-link uppers clear the engine. Though that does mean I have to put more thought into what I do for skid plates.

I'm going to run a set of old school gauges on the dash bar of the cage. Maybe I'm just old, but I like gauges.
A little off topic but GM now offers the LT1 crate engine in both a dry and wet sump. I agree abut the old school gauges they don't make sense; however, we did a couple builds with Speedhut gauges, they look like old school Autometer gauges but they are actually can bus driven, you can plug right into your DLC. They will also scan and clear codes and are programmable. Also Check out Broadfield Customs, Toby makes some cool clusters for Jeeps using the Speedhut gauges.
 
Running a low oil pressure indicator is simply required. If you lose oil pressure you need an indicator to warn you so you can take action.
Agreed. Makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.

A little off topic but GM now offers the LT1 crate engine in both a dry and wet sump.
dry sump would be a nice set up, but where in the world would you mount the oil reservoir? I just cannot picture where there would be room for it! Maybe the passenger seat..............(just kidding).
 
Running a low oil pressure indicator is simply required. If you lose oil pressure you need an indicator to warn you so you can take action. A couple times in my career I lost oil pressure and the warning indicator saved the engine. On one occasion the filter gasket failed and I lost all the oil but shut off the engine in time to save it, an old 283 SBC.

Your not far off. Chrysler calls their coolant temp gauge a "Customer satisfaction gauge". They put the needle near center over a wide range of temps because it makes you feel better. In reality a accurate gauge is better. Personally I think we should all have enhanced scan gauges in our Jeeps regardless of the engine. Use a Bluetooth adapter and an app if you don't want to spend a lot on a gauge.
What oil pressure range should an LS 6.0 run in and what would you set the low pressure indicator to come on at? I want to program my scan gauge to warn me if I get low oil pressure.
 
I got 2011 Rubi JK with 6.2l LS3/525hp crate engine and 5 speed NV4500. It was built 5 years ago by Rock Solid Performance (RSP) using Motech kit. Gordon & Robert of RSP did one heck of a built (thank u guys). The LS is amazing and enduring.

I timed 0-60 accl on 35s and 4.10 ratio. The best i got was 7 sec flat. I thought with such setup it would be low 5s!

Does that sound reasonable?

Any tips to improve accl?
I went out after work tonight and made a run. I set the aero force gauge to performance scan and it starts recording as soon as you move. My speedo is calibrated to within 1mph gps is I would think it's pretty accurate numbers wise.

2011 JKU 37s 4.56 gears, bumpers, winch etc.... RpmExtreme EZcanbus JK Kit,6l80e, 6.2 cam, headers 87 octane tuned by me.

0-60. = 5.40 seconds
1/8th mile= 8.96 @ 81mph
1/4 mile= 13.76 @ 102mph


It barked 1-2-3 shifts and when I finally lifted the speedo was well past 100. >:) scared the crap out of myself. LoL

I took a picture of the readout.
Image
 
You can change the display. Mine originally booted up as CTSV
I can't change anything on it. Display froze then went blank. Now it won't power up. Same thing happened in spring this year. Sent it in, they fixed and flashed it even past warranty date, it just didn't stay fixed.
 
Do you start off in second gear for these 0-60 mph timed runs? The NV4500 has a granny first gear that is probably slowing you down.
Plus the NV4500 is painfully slow to shift. 4:10's with 35's is not optimal for a second gear start. Sounds like he has a good combination for wheeling but not a 0-60 run.
 
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