[gt1guy]

Excellent, this will keep the accessories tight and close to the engine as well right? I like not having to buy extra crap.

gt1guy, why did you buy the different water pump and balancer, we got the same motor?

I was under the impression it was a crap shoot as to which setup you'd get on the engine. So I went full retard and picked them up first. In hindsight, bad move.

 

[gt1guy]

Sorry for the confusion. I do not have to tear it apart again. What I was trying to say in a short mannar was I wanted to get it started before everything was finished before I found out something with my used engine was wrong and I'd have to tear it all apart again. It's not hard work, it's just time consuming work to pull the front end off.

As for the kit from RPM:
-Straight forward directions that are pretty well written (a few things could be explained better or a bit more detail, but Jon solicited input so I will)
-Completely new wire harness
-Zero wiring modifications, only 6 wires to splice into the JK harness at the ECU
-No redundant sensors
-No requirement to send my gauge cluster in, for whatever
-Tap shift utilizing the stock CC lever (dunno if this will work for me immediately as my CC didn't work before the swap)
-No interior mods other than the accelerator pedal install. The Jeep one is not reused. I know Motech does to fool the MPG and reset the oil change light? But my 07 doesn't warn me for that (unless that is a GM ECU thing...? In which case I'll find out if that is covered by the kit tuning, at some point.)
-Integrated CAN module is well built and protected. I did not like the Motech bread board approach, though I see he includes a protective case for it now.

For the most part, all the hard parts of the kits are the same and it boiled down to what looked and sounded easiest based on pictures and write ups on the internet and cost.

Too be honest, the Motech kit seemed too redundant with sensors which added wiring. I believe his new kit eliminates the redundancy but a clear launch date for the DIY'rs wasn't nailed down when I was looking to purchase the kit.

So far I'd say one can't go wrong choosing either supplier. Motechs support on here is fantastic and has helped clear some things up for me, but Jon has answered every question I've asked via email (short of the ones I immediately emailed back about because I figured out the answer after hitting send)


If I were having the shop do it, I believe I would have gone with Motech, but DIYing I chose RPM based on those points. If I were having a shop do it now I'd say it's a toss up.

Damn good idea making sure the engine was sound first.

Thanks for you thoughts on the RPM kit. Seems like a very viable option. I spoke with them a few weeks ago, they know their shit.

 

[Dkjeep]

Sorry for the confusion. I do not have to tear it apart again. What I was trying to say in a short mannar was I wanted to get it started before everything was finished before I found out something with my used engine was wrong and I'd have to tear it all apart again. It's not hard work, it's just time consuming work to pull the front end off.

As for the kit from RPM:
-Straight forward directions that are pretty well written (a few things could be explained better or a bit more detail, but Jon solicited input so I will)
-Completely new wire harness
-Zero wiring modifications, only 6 wires to splice into the JK harness at the ECU
-No redundant sensors
-No requirement to send my gauge cluster in, for whatever
-Tap shift utilizing the stock CC lever (dunno if this will work for me immediately as my CC didn't work before the swap)
-No interior mods other than the accelerator pedal install. The Jeep one is not reused. I know Motech does to fool the MPG and reset the oil change light? But my 07 doesn't warn me for that (unless that is a GM ECU thing...? In which case I'll find out if that is covered by the kit tuning, at some point.)
-Integrated CAN module is well built and protected. I did not like the Motech bread board approach, though I see he includes a protective case for it now.

For the most part, all the hard parts of the kits are the same and it boiled down to what looked and sounded easiest based on pictures and write ups on the internet and cost.

Too be honest, the Motech kit seemed too redundant with sensors which added wiring. I believe his new kit eliminates the redundancy but a clear launch date for the DIY'rs wasn't nailed down when I was looking to purchase the kit.

So far I'd say one can't go wrong choosing either supplier. Motechs support on here is fantastic and has helped clear some things up for me, but Jon has answered every question I've asked via email (short of the ones I immediately emailed back about because I figured out the answer after hitting send)


If I were having the shop do it, I believe I would have gone with Motech, but DIYing I chose RPM based on those points. If I were having a shop do it now I'd say it's a toss up.

Thanks for this info, I have been looking very closely at both vendors and have spoken with both. I can say that both guys are very friendly and seem to have great service so far, I consider that a wash at this point. Comparing the kits....

There seems to be a LOT more going on with the motec kit as far as installing it. More harness, more modules, etc... also you have to send off your shifter and gauge cluster. The RPM kit looks to be a great deal more simplified and you don’t have to send off anything. I don’t know if this is detrimental or a convenience at this point but if it works just as good with less stuff to deal with / install then why not? Both kits have parts that the other does not for instance the RPM kit comes with the transfer case adapter but no a/c lines, pedal, or evaporator parts that the motec kit does. As far as the essentials neither comes with everything.

I really like the idea of having the bump shift on the factory cruise lever that the RPM kit offers. It feels like it’s in a good spot on the wheel in my 08' and just driving around pretending it feels right. One day to the next I feel like I am going to go with one or the other depending on what nugget of info I dig up that fits one kit more than the other.

 

[D94R]

Thanks for this info, I have been looking very closely at both vendors and have spoken with both. I can say that both guys are very friendly and seem to have great service so far, I consider that a wash at this point. Comparing the kits....

There seems to be a LOT more going on with the motec kit as far as installing it. More harness, more modules, etc... also you have to send off your shifter and gauge cluster. The RPM kit looks to be a great deal more simplified and you don’t have to send off anything. I don’t know if this is detrimental or a convenience at this point but if it works just as good with less stuff to deal with / install then why not? Both kits have parts that the other does not for instance the RPM kit comes with the transfer case adapter but no a/c lines, pedal, or evaporator parts that the motec kit does. As far as the essentials neither comes with everything.

I really like the idea of having the bump shift on the factory cruise lever that the RPM kit offers. It feels like it’s in a good spot on the wheel in my 08' and just driving around pretending it feels right. One day to the next I feel like I am going to go with one or the other depending on what nugget of info I dig up that fits one kit more than the other.

To clarify, both ECU's and TIPM need to go back to RPM, but that is a given with any kit I think. Turn around was quick too.

You are right on the "basic kits" being different between eachother, but when you add in the "necessary" upgrades to either you get pretty identical hard-part kits, with the cost edge going to RPM.

Now, I did start with a complete drop-out that included the GM ECU and throttle pedal so there was some cost savings there for me and I stuck with complete GM accessories because that kept me from cracking any factory bolts on the engine (which i find always leads to issues, ie belt alignments, accessory alignments, sensor alignment etc) and I wanted to avoid that completely. Either kit can be ordered that way, but dealing with a crate engine seems to be a bit more hairy since the accessories are a crap shoot and potentially require added cost.

I also did my swap body-on. Only having to remove the factory underhood harness (i left it attached to 3.8), and then routing the entire new harness from RPM I think saves a lot of grief, it is all but plug-n-play in that respect. I'll be 3 weeks into this swap come Saturday when my radiator hose shows up. This is 4-5 hours a day after work with a few days skipped here and there for when shit just wasn't going my way (not due to the kit, just Murphys Law)

 

[gt1guy]

I'm sure a lot of people will like to hear what your final cost was for the swap when it's finished. Sounds like you saved a bunch of money.

 

[Dkjeep]

I'm sure a lot of people will like to hear what your final cost was for the swap when it's finished. Sounds like you saved a bunch of money.

To do it the way we are doing it, its gonna scare the shit out of 20k if not a bit more.

 

[Dkjeep]

To clarify, both ECU's and TIPM need to go back to RPM, but that is a given with any kit I think. Turn around was quick too.

You are right on the "basic kits" being different between eachother, but when you add in the "necessary" upgrades to either you get pretty identical hard-part kits, with the cost edge going to RPM.

Now, I did start with a complete drop-out that included the GM ECU and throttle pedal so there was some cost savings there for me and I stuck with complete GM accessories because that kept me from cracking any factory bolts on the engine (which i find always leads to issues, ie belt alignments, accessory alignments, sensor alignment etc) and I wanted to avoid that completely. Either kit can be ordered that way, but dealing with a crate engine seems to be a bit more hairy since the accessories are a crap shoot and potentially require added cost.

I also did my swap body-on. Only having to remove the factory underhood harness (i left it attached to 3.8), and then routing the entire new harness from RPM I think saves a lot of grief, it is all but plug-n-play in that respect. I'll be 3 weeks into this swap come Saturday when my radiator hose shows up. This is 4-5 hours a day after work with a few days skipped here and there for when shit just wasn't going my way (not due to the kit, just Murphys Law)

So did you have to get new a/c lines and power steering hoses? Can you speak to the quality of those from RPM?

 

[Dkjeep]

You have several AC compressor choices but I suggest the compact Sanden. The Sanden cools well and handles high rpm,...

Do you have a P/N for this? I have also heard that there is some modification required to the compressor housing prior to install. Can you elaborate on this?

 

[MoTech]

Do you have a P/N for this? I have also heard that there is some modification required to the compressor housing prior to install. Can you elaborate on this?

If running the truck or Camaro drive no mods should be required. If running the Corvette drive the compressor is moved back so the bolts holding the rear plate on may touch the motor mount plate since we designed and run the hydraulic motor mounts; the Vette ran pedestal mounts. We simply recess(or countersink) the bolt holes so it allows the head of the bolt to be flush with the cover then you should not have any interference. Some of our new mounts are coming clearanced for this. Sanden compressors come from various sources and some have tall ports for the AC fittings, you may have to trim the one closest to the frame if it is close, if not leave it alone.

 

[Dkjeep]

I'm running the ls3 / 525 crate motor and plan on getting the "cts-v" accessory drive. Can you recommend an exact compressor model for this setup and I will be using the GM hydraulic mounts as well.

If I need to machine some material out of the compressor housing to recess a bolt head that's fine, I machine for a living and can hold tolerances in the microns. I'm pretty sure I can tackle it if I know where to remove it from. Got one of those awesome pics showing where?

 

[wml]

6.0 needs new radiator?

On Motech's site, it says the 6.3 requires a new radiator, but optional on the 5.3. I'm running a 5.7 in my JK on stock radiator with no issues, but threw a rod recently, tore up the aluminum block, and will be replacing it with the 6.0 (408) engine. Curious if anyone knows if this will need an upsized radiator or not...thanks.

 

[gt1guy]

If running the truck or Camaro drive no mods should be required. If running the Corvette drive the compressor is moved back so the bolts holding the rear plate on may touch the motor mount plate since we designed and run the hydraulic motor mounts; the Vette ran pedestal mounts. We simply recess(or countersink) the bolt holes so it allows the head of the bolt to be flush with the cover then you should not have any interference. Some of our new mounts are coming clearanced for this. Sanden compressors come from various sources and some have tall ports for the AC fittings, you may have to trim the one closest to the frame if it is close, if not leave it alone.

Are you saying the ports on a Sanden 4515 AC compressor can come in different heights? Not all Sanden 4515's are the same?

If I'm not mistaken, the CTS-V front drive uses the Corvette set back, with the layout of the Camaro drive correct?

 

[Dkjeep]

If I'm not mistaken, the CTS-V front drive uses the Corvette set back, with the layout of the Camaro drive correct?

I believe that is correct. I also believe some machine work is required with this setup. Just doesnt end does it, lol.

 

[MoTech]

Are you saying the ports on a Sanden 4515 AC compressor can come in different heights? Not all Sanden 4515's are the same?

If I'm not mistaken, the CTS-V front drive uses the Corvette set back, with the layout of the Camaro drive correct?

The CTV uses the Vette offset. I think you are worrying too much about the drive, it's very simple maybe I can get a video up.

If you are concerned about the compressor purchase it with whomever's kit you run. We include a compressor mount in our kit and you can add a ready to go new Sanden compressor for $229.

After a couple hundred swaps we learned a few things about drives. We run the stock GM compressor on some builds, we like our JK drive because it puts the compressor low driver side away from the UCA mount. Fact is each build can be different depending on truck vs passenger car engines. We have supported BBC's Gen III, Gen IV and Gen V engines in JK's. We learned from many years of experience what works and pass that on too you.

Bottom line is when we support a build we set you up with works best, we don't expect you to have to machine anything. When a customer completes a vehicle ID form with the engine, trans, chassis, etc. data we put together the best set up for them. We have done each of these drives many times over so there is no guessing on your part.

 

[MoTech]

Couple pictures. Standard GM tensioner. Second picture shows the ports, there is no interference here, this is a TJ frame. The JK frame is a little taller. We run a block fitting to give you extra clearance. Third picture shows when you move the compressor back with the Corvette offset the bolts on the back get close to the motor mount sideplate. You can run a button head or countersunk bolt if you like. We are clearancing the new mounts for this and the Gen V engines have a narrower mount so again no problem.

 

[gt1guy]

Thank you Robbie. I'm a simple man and pictures help.

 

[0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME]

Here is a good look at the CTS-V accessory drive we installed on a JK with a LS3.
We used the Fixed displacement AC compressor 19130461 that would come in the CTS-V Kit 19155066

A few areas that you will have to watch out for. One is the Ac compressor has the ports rotated towards the frame and will require notching the frame to give you room for the fittings. Second is finding the correct fittings to bolt up to the ports on the compressor, we ended up finding some used CTS-V ac hoses and reused the ends.
Third would be clearance to the motor mount bracket. With our high clearance weld in mount brackets its not a problem but its a tight fit.
Its really nice to be able to use a factory GM compressor on factory mounts but there are a few tradeoffs with the CTS-V compressor so we usually go with the Camaro front drive and truck compressor.

I will attach some pictures from the last CTS-V drive we installed on a JK with a 480HP LS3

These are during test fit stages. We ended up boxing in the frame and finishing it out. This customer wanted extra room for a supercharger that he plans to run in the future.

 

[0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME]

Sorry Robbie. I didn't realize we were loading pictures at the same time. It takes forever to link pictures on a forum thread.

 

[D94R]

I'm sure a lot of people will like to hear what your final cost was for the swap when it's finished. Sounds like you saved a bunch of money.

I haven't added the latest nickel and dime items or the tranny jack cost but I'm in the ball park of $12k.
Now I don't intend it to sound like I saved a LOT of money with RPM instead of Motech. The cost difference was the price of an aluminum radiator, which I opted for.



For the one PS hose that is required to be replaced RPM has you source a GM part so you get the quality with that. The low pressure side is "up to you" and I just connected to it where it comes up behind the passenger head light and ran tubing back along the ac hoses to the GM reservoir inlet.

RPMs AC lines are really nice. Until I get the system charged I can't honestly evaluate them.

 

[MoTech]

Thank you Robbie. I'm a simple man and pictures help.

We do run the OE GM compressors on occation(just did one on Walker Evans JK), in fact with the Gen V's they work great. We avoid sectioning the frame although on rare occasions we have when there is few other options.

The passenger low compressor poses several challenges. The OE compressor sits further out from the engine creating frame interference for the pump and fittings. If running less than a 3.5" lift the stock UCA bracket on the axle is likely to whack the bottom of the compressor. We move the compressor in towards the block and up away from the UCA bracket which works well even on JK's with no lift.

Using the proper compressor, mount and fittings you should have little or no issues we have done dozens of these GM drives. You should not have to cut or section the frame we like to leave that alone. The Sanden compressor runs quiet and smooth and I feel has less drag. The output is enough for a 4 door JK on a 115* day here in Vegas. On near 120* days, which we had a few, any AC system is taxed.

I hope to turn out some Sanden rear covers soon with better clocking for the AC fittings on our new machines. They will have to wait till after the billet brackets are in production though.