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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Bump - got a freebie Tom Woods and a set of gussets sitting here, it's telling me to do a cut and turn...
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
I'd be more apt to do it if I wasn't relying on it every day. If something comes up, for whatever reason, I'm going to be SOL.

Everyone always wants damn writeups! I can't imagine it being very different than the videos you already posted..
 
I went into a shop the other day here in South Carolina. I told the guy I wanted to rotate the C's on my front Dana 44. The guy basically laughed at said I was doing too much reading and it could be corrected with a 32$ set of cam bolts. I would like to do it despite his recommendation. So if anyone does it do a write up, Pleease
 
Oh no he didn't rofl
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I went into a shop the other day here in South Carolina. I told the guy I wanted to rotate the C's on my front Dana 44. The guy basically laughed at said I was doing too much reading and it could be corrected with a 32$ set of cam bolts. I would like to do it despite his recommendation. So if anyone does it do a write up, Pleease
Wow..
 
That's too funny ....... FAIL
 
i like docs idea, and with your skills it would probably be easy for ya. that sounds like a pretty mean axle and with some good caster numbers there'd be not much need for bigger axles any time soon
 
My jeep handles like crap. Assuming low caster for pinion.

Remember reading about Poly modifying housings. Somebody else needs to do this :D
We were doing these a few years ago.... Too many issues welding the full sleeves to the diffs. For the price go get a Dynatrac front end that comes out of the gate with 3" tubes and corrected castor. My .02 anyways.
 
We were doing these a few years ago.... Too many issues welding the full sleeves to the diffs. For the price go get a Dynatrac front end that comes out of the gate with 3" tubes and corrected castor. My .02 anyways.
Nickle would solve that issue... but it's expensive.
 
I went into a shop the other day here in South Carolina. I told the guy I wanted to rotate the C's on my front Dana 44. The guy basically laughed at said I was doing too much reading and it could be corrected with a 32$ set of cam bolts. I would like to do it despite his recommendation. So if anyone does it do a write up, Pleease
He's not understanding what you want to do. A JK has a fixed six degree offset between the caster and pinion angles. That's insufficient in most cases when you lift the Jeep beyond about 3 inches. All the cam bolts will do is reposition those six degrees, and you'll end up with either not enough caster, or not enough pinion angle. Seems to be a consensus you need about ten degrees of offset, which is what Dynatrac or Teraflex will give you in a "corrected" housing. If you have the patience & skills the "Cs" can be removed by grinding off the welds and knocking them loose. The housing is then carefully jigged to ensure the right camber and caster/pinion angles, then the "Cs" are welded back on. Lots of work and as Pig suggested, maybe a bit of a fool's errand when you can just get a replacement housing and be done with it. You can usually sell an undamaged/bent stock housing fairly easily and recover some of the costs of the new one.
 
I dont think a lot of people understand that, some of us, can make the time, assemble the necessary tools, etc to accomplish the work needed to rotate the C's,......but not the $5000 dollars needed to purchase a PR44.

But I guess someone always has to bust out the generic "why not just buy a dynatrac housing bro?" :shaking:
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I kinda get tired of the "just buy something else" comments within the JK community. It happens a-l-o-t. I'm not sure if it's the majority don't have the tools, they're lazy or they just have more money than time..but I don't have anywhere near the money to buy a new housing for, primarily, turned Cs.

If I was going to buy a new housing, it sure as hell wouldn't be stock width, that to me seems like a waste of money. I would want a full width 44 with 60 outers [Dynatracs Hybrid axle]. For the pretty much $0 a cut and turn would cost me out of pocket, it seems like a viable option.
 
I think DOC's idea was the best solution. Its' simple, quick and adds strength with the sleeve. It also maintains the relationship between your C's and coil/spring/control arm mounts. You should have no problem doing it in a day.

When I cut and re-used the C's of my last 60 it was a pain in the ass. I didnt mind because i had the time.
 
I dont think a lot of people understand that, some of us, can make the time, assemble the necessary tools, etc to accomplish the work needed to rotate the C's,......but not the $5000 dollars needed to purchase a PR44.

But I guess someone always has to bust out the generic "why not just buy a dynatrac housing bro?" :shaking:
You can get a PR44 or TF44 housing for around $2K w/free shipping. You can usually sell the stocker and recover up to half of that depending on conditio & spec. So you've got a better housing in all respects for $1k+. Easy decision .
 
What he said ^^^^^

Plus for those of us that have D30's that are still stock. It really makes more sense to upgrade and more so for those of us that can't weld or have someone that will for a reasonable price. Spending the money to regear, sleeve, gusset, truss and reweld the tube or C's and add a locker is going to be near the price of a complete PR44 or Tera44. On top of that the new axle is pretty much plug and play. Chopping and welding takes lots of time, labor and could make the axle useless.
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
You can get a PR44 or TF44 housing for around $2K w/free shipping. You can usually sell the stocker and recover up to half of that depending on conditio & spec. So you've got a better housing in all respects for $1k+. Easy decision .
And it's still not wide enough to make it worth replacing the housing, to me. $1000 to do a "cut and turn" and have a stronger housing [which I already spent money on to get somewhat close to that]. If you can't setup gears, you'd have to pay for that to be done too. Another easy $200 toward swapping housings.

I'm not sure who is paying $1000 for a front d44 housing, but they aren't in Texas. Bthomas just bought a 100% nonmolested JK front d44 for $250.

The easy decision for me is to do a cut and turn. A new housing without going wider, larger ring gear or larger ujoint doesn't seem worth the money to me. I'll stick with the more money than time or just laziness. Swapping housings, in my situation, is a pretty poor idea.
 
And it's still not wide enough to make it worth replacing the housing, to me. $1000 to do a "cut and turn" and have a stronger housing [which I already spent money on to get somewhat close to that]. If you can't setup gears, you'd have to pay for that to be done too. Another easy $200 toward swapping housings.

I'm not sure who is paying $1000 for a front d44 housing, but they aren't in Texas. Bthomas just bought a 100% nonmolested JK front d44 for $250.

The easy decision for me is to do a cut and turn. A new housing without going wider, larger ring gear or larger ujoint doesn't seem worth the money to me. I'll stick with the more money than time or just laziness. Swapping housings, in my situation, is a pretty poor idea.
$2k for the housing plus ball joints and switch everything from your current axle to the new one and sell the housing. $250 is a steal for a JK 44 front housing. I see people asking $1000 to $1200, but I'm not sure they get it. I'm sure you can get $750 with no problem. So you're less than $1500 for a new much stronger housing with much less work, even if it's not wider.
 
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