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Goody, check out www.cutandturn.com

Dude basically cuts off the knuckles carefully with an angle grinder, then repositions them on the axle at the angle he desired, then rewelds em back on

 

Pretty much what I'm looking to do, I just am concerned about not seeing anyone doing it to a JK housing for some reason. I've got a set of EVo c-gussets [new, extra] waiting to go if I cut off my Poly's for the turn.

 

It sure will be a mammoth amount of grinding, especially if you have c gussets welded on. Could the c gussets be cut off with a plasma?

 

I could cutting torch my plate c gussets in just a few minutes. Not a big deal. Wouldn't be fun, but two grinders going with a buddy and the torch, probably 20-30mins from start to smooth c's and ground down tube welds.

 

Why not give Pig a shout? They were offering it as an option with their axle upgrades a while back, so maybe he can get you in touch with whoever was doing the work.

 

Why not replace the C forging with a stronger one and eliminate the c gussets all together. You can buy the jk c's from dynatrac, solid, or part mikes.

I would just pull the tubes from the diff and start over with some heavier tube and widen the axle out about 3" while I was at it. Dynatrac c's and synergy brackets. For $800-$900 you would have a much stronger housing. You could eliminate spacers up front and take some stress off the unit bearings.

 

I keep kicking this around in my head too. The problem I see with doing it at the C is the crappy angles for the spring seats, shock mounts, etc are still there. Everything else will still stay "rolled forward". It seems that doing it at the differential would be a better choice, but probably a lot more work.

 

Did this on mine Mike. We just used grinders and cut the weld out as you said in one of the first posts. Found the angle wanted and welded them back on. Easy as pie. Since I was putting on the Poly outer shell kit....

crappy angles for the spring seats, shock mounts, etc

New bracketry is the right way to do this.

 

I have said it before, but I am very very surprised no one has done this on the JK yet. If it works for other Jeep front axles, there is no reason is would be more difficult to accomplish on the JK. As stated, just a lot of grinding patience.

 

Saw a good vid on YouTube.

Edit: or the video posted in that link

 

IIRC, one or two of the guys in jeep2.0's LS swap thread had it done. May have been in Colorado too though. But that might be another source of info for ya


Vandy

 

It would be well worth the time/energy to do.

I wish I had recognized the importance of this before I had upper/lower c gussets welded on. If I had, I could have a double carden shaft without vibrations and good caster.

 

Still having issues? ^

 

No. Stock shafts. I gave up on that a while back, but nonetheless an unsolvable mystery for me as to why. Once my stocker(s) give up the ghost im gonna give adams a try

 

My jeep handles like crap. Assuming low caster for pinion.

Remember reading about Poly modifying housings. Somebody else needs to do this

 

We were doing these a few years ago.... Too many issues welding the full sleeves to the diffs. For the price go get a Dynatrac front end that comes out of the gate with 3" tubes and corrected castor. My .02 anyways.

 

If it was me I would cut the tube, hammer in an internal sleeve, hammer on the ends, set angle, weld. Add a truss or external sleeve when done.

not sure I would even bother with grinding the C's, did that before..fawk that

 

This would work too and as DOC says... might be faster as well. The sleeves on both sides of the tube is a nice add.

 

Been thinking on doing this on the Rubi axle I got to replace the D30 setting in the shop now just gotta get back home to really take a look at it and get it done and install the sleeve kit (thanks Impluse off road) waiting for me. Also thinking about doing my own truss with a tie into the diff cover (most likely using a Blue Torch cover).

 

Bump - got a freebie Tom Woods and a set of gussets sitting here, it's telling me to do a cut and turn...

 

Do it up and write it up!

 

I'd be more apt to do it if I wasn't relying on it every day. If something comes up, for whatever reason, I'm going to be SOL.

Everyone always wants damn writeups! I can't imagine it being very different than the videos you already posted..

 

I went into a shop the other day here in South Carolina. I told the guy I wanted to rotate the C's on my front Dana 44. The guy basically laughed at said I was doing too much reading and it could be corrected with a 32$ set of cam bolts. I would like to do it despite his recommendation. So if anyone does it do a write up, Pleease

 

Wow..

 

Oh no he didn't rofl

 

hahahahahahhaha

 

That's too funny ....... FAIL

 

i like docs idea, and with your skills it would probably be easy for ya. that sounds like a pretty mean axle and with some good caster numbers there'd be not much need for bigger axles any time soon

 

I dont think a lot of people understand that, some of us, can make the time, assemble the necessary tools, etc to accomplish the work needed to rotate the C's,......but not the $5000 dollars needed to purchase a PR44.

But I guess someone always has to bust out the generic "why not just buy a dynatrac housing bro?"

 

You can get a PR44 or TF44 housing for around $2K w/free shipping. You can usually sell the stocker and recover up to half of that depending on conditio & spec. So you've got a better housing in all respects for $1k+. Easy decision .

 

I kinda get tired of the "just buy something else" comments within the JK community. It happens a-l-o-t. I'm not sure if it's the majority don't have the tools, they're lazy or they just have more money than time..but I don't have anywhere near the money to buy a new housing for, primarily, turned Cs.

If I was going to buy a new housing, it sure as hell wouldn't be stock width, that to me seems like a waste of money. I would want a full width 44 with 60 outers [Dynatracs Hybrid axle]. For the pretty much $0 a cut and turn would cost me out of pocket, it seems like a viable option.

 

more money than time

I think this is it right here.

 

I think DOC's idea was the best solution. Its' simple, quick and adds strength with the sleeve. It also maintains the relationship between your C's and coil/spring/control arm mounts. You should have no problem doing it in a day.

When I cut and re-used the C's of my last 60 it was a pain in the ass. I didnt mind because i had the time.