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Yea Im pretty sure we know that.

Sent from Skynet
someone didnt know that a snatchblock would give double the pull rate so you cant assume anymore when it comes to someones saftey. :thefinger:
 
Poly filled the rear speakers


Sent from my iPhone on the toilet.
I guess that is angel hair? did you find that it helped?

I replaced mine with a cheap set of alpine 2 ways and that was a huge improvement over stock.
 
Tack welded my u-joint caps and finnaly put the SS extended brake lines up front (did rears 6 months ago).
 
Enlighten me oh wise ones. I just finished welding on a lower track bar bracket (front) . Now there is the stock hole and one that is three inches higher. The instructions say use the upper hole if you have a 'drag link flip'. My questions are why? And what if I use the upper hole without a drag link flip?

edit. BTW my drag link is stock.
 
Enlighten me oh wise ones. I just finished welding on a lower track bar bracket (front) . Now there is the stock hole and one that is three inches higher. The instructions say use the upper hole if you have a 'drag link flip'. My questions are why? And what if I use the upper hole without a drag link flip?

edit. BTW my drag link is stock.
Your drag link and track bar will no longer be parallel causing sever bump steer. They need to be along the same plane (parallel) and as close to level as possible for best handling.
 
Enlighten me oh wise ones. I just finished welding on a lower track bar bracket (front) . Now there is the stock hole and one that is three inches higher. The instructions say use the upper hole if you have a 'drag link flip'. My questions are why? And what if I use the upper hole without a drag link flip?

edit. BTW my drag link is stock.
The tech writer/company likely didn't want to get into a death wobble/steering handling conversation in their instructions. Doing a drag link flip lessens the angle from frame to axle. Ideally, you want the trackbar and drag link to have the same angles. Raising the axle side of the trackbar gets it back to parallel with the drag link in the majority of builds. (it wouldn't though if you have a frame side trackbar drop mount for example).
 
Your drag link and track bar will no longer be parallel causing sever bump steer. They need to be along the same plane (parallel) and as close to level as possible for best handling.
That sums it up!:thumbup:

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As mentioned, the drag link dictates the track bar location. If they are not within the same plane, that induces bump steer. However the higher the track bar mount, the higher the roll center, the better/flatter the Jeep will corner. This makes a substantial difference in handling, but it does need to line up with the angle of the drag link as a priority.
 
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