hi I'm a steel fabricator(rails,stringer,steel stainless alluminum)and I use a pipe bender everyday a big,motherf...one,now if you wanna go with that one(by hand)is fine for thin wall pipes(0.060 to 0.090)but if you planning to bent inch 1/4,inch 1/2,2in 0.120wall;0.250(scq 40,scq80)you better off with an hydraulic one,unless your name is superman.

 

I'm planning on using 1 3/4 dom .120 wall tube

 

They are a little pricey but the Tube Shark is the best.

 

I would love a tube shark but I don't have an extra $5,000 stashed away.

 

i am thinking about getting the model 32 from jd squared. Anyone have any experience with this? Anyone use any other tube bender that they think works just as good and costs a little bit less. I figured that it is going to be around 7-800 for model 32 and a 1 3/4 die set.

 

Here you want the best but not have to pay outa your ass for it. I've used this bender for years..And it can be upgraded to hydraulic as you get more money.

Many different levels...

http://www.jd2.com/shop/

 

thats the one I am planning on getting, the model 32 from jd2 unless I can find something else that works as good for less.

 

Back at Wyotech school when I was fabricating there, we made look alikes to this brand. Worked great. I used these in the shop to create bumpers and side bars, and it worked flawlessly. Simple to use, has that ratchet set up so you don't have to be a Neanderthal to work it.

 

On a side note, I wouldn't recommend building a cage if you have no experience in it. Bumpers and rails are fine, but your life may depend on your cage. Go with a kit like the RROR or Poly, or find an experienced cage builder to help you.

Chris

 

I was originally looking at the poly p kit but I think I might end up going with a custom cage. My cousin has his own 4x4 and racing shop and builds and races sprints cars for fun so I am planning on getting him to help me design the cage and make some cad models and then help me fabricate. The cage will probably be the last thing I do so I can have had plenty of practice fabricating before I dive into that.

 

Cool, I've done two cages now with Packard and I still wouldn't try to do one without his design. I think I'm just going to go with the Poly or RROR. I don't wheel it like the LJ, so I don't need a full out custom cage.

 

I have the JD2 model 3 and love it. I've been using it for about 5 years now and totally got my moneys worth. For the longest time i had only 1 set of dies and it suited me pretty well.

Avoid the poop pipe benders. They werent designed to build cages. Most ive seen usually leaves a nice crease indentation in the middle of the bend making it weaker.

 

I picked up a used JD2 model 3 with stand and 1 3/4" die for $250 and love it. Very simple to use and operate. If you're a little guy you might want to step up to a hydro assist.

 

lucky you, I wish I could find a deal like that. Heck you can't even get the 1 3/4 in die new for that.

 

how about you build your own, that's what I did, pay $20 for the plans, about $100 in scrap metal, $80 for the air/hydro ram and it uses Pro Tools dies..., best of all if you add wheels to it, it is mobile. I have a little over 500 in mine including the die, and the air/hydro kicks ass

http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm

There is a big thread on Pirate about it also

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376183&highlight=trikes

 

The JD2 and Pro-Tools tube benders are pretty much the entry level for getting a good bender. Those Northern Tool and Harbor Freight Benders are tube kinkers from what I have read. When I get a bender I plan on going with the Baileigh RDB-050. You get what you pay for in tube benders.

 

x2

You get what you pay for.

 

Those northern tool ones you posted are pipe benders, not tube benders. They'll bend it, but they'll look like total poo.

Something like the JD2 is what you need. Tube bending dies aren't cheap, there's no way getting round that. Be glad you aren't buying our dies at $1000+ a pop.

 

Those northern tool ones you posted are pipe benders, not tube benders. They'll bend it, but they'll look like total poo..

That is why they are known as "tube crimpers"

I don't have one, but know people who use JD2 Model 3's and they swear by them. They all swear by chromoly and TIG welding too.

 

This is a JMR, the mechanical version.
We use this style bender on a daily basis. Works very well.



Although we are using the Hydraulic version, which the mechanical version can be upgraded to.

 

I have a jd2 model 3 with hydraulics and 4 die sets, I think it does just fine. I have been using it lately to build a hunting rack for the back of my boss's polaris ranger out of 1" square tubing.

 

I was able to get a Brand new miller 211 for 598.00 so I think I am going to end up getting the jd2 model 32. The next question is what software I should get to go with it. I am looking at the bend tech ez, but I am wondering whether or not I should step it up to the Bend tech ez 3D. I am planning on making my own tube fenders, modifying front bumper with a stinger and grill guard, and fabbing up my own roll cage that is going to be frame mounted so the 3D design aspect may come in handy. What do you all think?

Also do you all think 1 3/4 in die set will be a good overall tube for my projects? Should I go with .120 or 1/4 in wall dom for the cage?

 

I was able to get a Brand new miller 211 for 598.00

Where did you find this deal, I'm looking for a new welder...

 

.188 wall

 

my mothers boyfriend runs the briggs and stratton/ ferris industries plant in upstate new york so he gets the millers for half price. He was able to get this for me for an early christmas present.

 

Just picked this up off Craigslist from a good oh boy. He said it's a Jd2 model 3. From what I can tell it is, but there are no markings that I have found yet. It's really dirty and my 18 month old makes it hard for me to get out there and clean it up. Pluse the fact I'm hiding it from the warden. Haha

 

There was a great write up doing a side by side comparison of the JD2, Pro Tools, and JMR. The JMR had more material thickness at the critical pin locations and it was the only one that usedbronze bushings at the main pin. This prevents wear and allows the pin to be removed without the arms separating. Another think to note, JMR and Pro Tools dieswill interchange where JD2 only works on their bender. And the dies for the JD2 won't work on the JD32 when you upgrade...Just my. 02