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Replacing Transmission Lines

51K views 42 replies 26 participants last post by  bitslinger  
#1 ·
Well, it seems that my auto tranny lines are weeping/leakng. Has anybody replaced these yet? How hard for the shadetree mechanic to do it?

TIA!
 
#34 ·
Leaking trans cooler lines

I also have these transmission lines leaking. They have been like this for a year. In result of this issue and seeing many other Jeep Wrangler owners on web forums with this problem, I have submitted a request to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) to investigate this for a recall. I mention that if the transmission fluid were to leak onto the engine or exhaust, it could result in a fire. Just like if your transmission were to over heat. And we all know how they fixed the issue with the overheating transmissions... They don't add a trans cooler...they add a light on your dash. Stupid.
 
#39 ·
I recently received a notice from Chisler..., er, Chrysler announcing a 7 year warranty on the lines due to reports of leaks at the rubber / metal unions. Since I have an external cooler fitted I expect trouble should I try & get the things replaced under warranty.
 
#40 ·
I would think once you cut the lines, you assumed all responsibility for those lines. A new set is only around $35, and if the crimps start weeping, you are probably better off replacing them yourself, anyway. The trick is being careful with the quick disconnects on each end.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Cheap Disconnect Tool

I just replaced the transmission cooler lines on my 09 JKU last weekend - I picked up an Autocraft Ford Fuel Line Disconnect tool at Advance Auto for $5.:D Worked great on the Jiffy Tite fitting! Just wrap the tool around the line, pinch the tabs together and apply a little pressure as you rotate it and the tool will slide into the gaps between parts of the lock ring that protrude to hold the transmission line in the fitting. Rotate the tool slightly and you will see the lock ring expand and release the line. Pull the line out (along with the tool) and the lock ring stays in place. Install the new line by simply pressing it into place until you hear it click and then sliding the plastic cover all the way down to the fitting nut. Like others have posted here, it is extremely important to make sure this cap is seated since it holds the lock ring in place. Took me about an hour to replace both lines with an OEM replacement. It is a pretty messy job, though. The lower fitting on the transmission will pretty much dribble the whole time until you get the new lines on. Had to add about 3/4 quart of ATF+4 fluid afterwards. I had the weeping hose leak at the crimp joint deal. Here are some pics of the tool:
 

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