Well, it seems that my auto tranny lines are weeping/leakng. Has anybody replaced these yet? How hard for the shadetree mechanic to do it?
TIA!
TIA!
scf
Joined
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1 Posts
Cheap Disconnect Tool
I just replaced the transmission cooler lines on my 09 JKU last weekend - I picked up an Autocraft Ford Fuel Line Disconnect tool at Advance Auto for $5.
Worked great on the Jiffy Tite fitting! Just wrap the tool around the line, pinch the tabs together and apply a little pressure as you rotate it and the tool will slide into the gaps between parts of the lock ring that protrude to hold the transmission line in the fitting. Rotate the tool slightly and you will see the lock ring expand and release the line. Pull the line out (along with the tool) and the lock ring stays in place. Install the new line by simply pressing it into place until you hear it click and then sliding the plastic cover all the way down to the fitting nut. Like others have posted here, it is extremely important to make sure this cap is seated since it holds the lock ring in place. Took me about an hour to replace both lines with an OEM replacement. It is a pretty messy job, though. The lower fitting on the transmission will pretty much dribble the whole time until you get the new lines on. Had to add about 3/4 quart of ATF+4 fluid afterwards. I had the weeping hose leak at the crimp joint deal. Here are some pics of the tool:
I just replaced the transmission cooler lines on my 09 JKU last weekend - I picked up an Autocraft Ford Fuel Line Disconnect tool at Advance Auto for $5.
Worked great on the Jiffy Tite fitting! Just wrap the tool around the line, pinch the tabs together and apply a little pressure as you rotate it and the tool will slide into the gaps between parts of the lock ring that protrude to hold the transmission line in the fitting. Rotate the tool slightly and you will see the lock ring expand and release the line. Pull the line out (along with the tool) and the lock ring stays in place. Install the new line by simply pressing it into place until you hear it click and then sliding the plastic cover all the way down to the fitting nut. Like others have posted here, it is extremely important to make sure this cap is seated since it holds the lock ring in place. Took me about an hour to replace both lines with an OEM replacement. It is a pretty messy job, though. The lower fitting on the transmission will pretty much dribble the whole time until you get the new lines on. Had to add about 3/4 quart of ATF+4 fluid afterwards. I had the weeping hose leak at the crimp joint deal. Here are some pics of the tool:Attachments
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