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Lift Tires Regear Price?

10K views 29 replies 20 participants last post by  Rock Krawler Suspension  
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I talked to a local shop about getting the works done on my Sahara (lift kit, new wheels, 35's, and a regear)

This is what they came back to me with. I know it sounds weak, but I'm more interested in having a daily driver that I think looks cool than I am with being able to crush rocks. Once its older and I don't care about scratching it anymore my tune will probably change.

Does sound a bit excessive or do I just have unrealistic expectations about how much this stuff costs?

Thanks!

I actually have two set of brand new 10th Anniversary rims and tires. These are from two recent builds we did. The rims come the BF Goodridge Mud-Terrain T/A

Nitto makes the Trail Grappler M/T in a 35x12.50R18”, also a 35x12.50R17”
Goodyear 315/70R17 and 325/65R18

For the gear changing;

With a 35” tire you’ll want to go with a 1 Ton front and rear axle. I would not recommend changing the gears and keeping the stock housing.

Both front and rear gearing will need to be matched.

-Option on axles are RockJock 60 or a Ford 9”.
-Carrier?
-Gear Ratio?


Estimated on the front axle - $ 7,500.00 - $ 8,000.00 + shipping & labor
Estimated on the rear axle - $ 4,000.00 - $ 4,500.00 + shipping & labor


Our JK started out as the Call of Duty 4dr.


Let me know the direction you want to go on the axles



Thanks
 
#3 ·
What ever shop that is, do two things.

1. Tell them to go **** themselves.
2. Find a better shop that will not try to ass rape you.


Now that that is done. Search on here on how many people are running 37's with the Dana 44's. I am and I know 3 others here in town that are as well.

Since you only want to mall crawl you can get away with doing nothing to the axles. But you should look into getting a truss on the front, "C" gussetts and keep an eye on your ball joints.
 
#4 ·
Shit, I was thinking you better go to Rockwell's if your gonna run 35's. Either that it you should go with portals and since it sounds like money's no object just have the dealer and install Mopars...

Seriously though, just find another shop that will work with you more reasonably. Either that or get together with some locals and have a mod party.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#6 ·
All good advice. RUN, do not walk away from that clown.
 
#7 ·
haha i know I saw that and my first instinct was to say holy f no way...

then i figured i'd back off on that sentiment when I posted the e-mail here just in case everyone here came back with the "you're an idiot for rocking stock axles on a mall crawler!"

Nah, the shop's in Stamford, CT. They said they work on a lot of JK's but its not really an off road shop. I think they see more in the department of Audi's and BMW's, I just figured I'd see what they quote me at since they're local (ie 15 min from where I live).
 
#8 ·
They are trying to rob you. Another vote for find another shop. There is a shop in Stewartsville, Nj, a couple hours from Stamford. Good guys. They pretty much are off road. Never had work done there but I have been there several times and they have always treated me well. Good luck
 
#26 ·
Thanks da20captain, Cody we would be more then happy to help you plan and build your JK, we have been servicing the north east for 34 years and are fellow JK owners also. Feel free to give us a call, OK4WD 9084546973. :rockon:
 
#11 ·
The pricing seems about right for the axles they are talking about. Thing is you don't need axles. You might want to mention to them that the stock jk wheels will not fit on a ton axle.

I would expect you to be paying $1500-2000 for a gear swap and another grand for tires. Bump it up another $1600 if you are going to do lockers. Then they will sell you a 3" bds kit for about $2k more.
 
#12 ·
Going to have to agree with everyone else. Either they don't know what they're talking about or are trying to rip you off. Look around for a shop that knows their shit, or try to do some of it yourself (lift, swapping tires) to cut down the cost.

And is it just me but wouldn't 35 on tons suck, ground clearance wise?
 
#13 · (Edited)
yeah I would expect it be pretty weighed down too. the included a picture of a jeep they did work on. honestly it looks like its meant to drive through rocks more so than over them... I'm not really even planning on wheeling with this thing until it becomes a secondary car. Just going for what I think looks cool. Thanks for everyones help and advice!

Image
 
#15 ·
ha seriously. I love the way these things look stock. I just want it a bit higher and with bigger wheels/tires. Probably throw a poison spyder bumper on it at some point and I'm good to go until I start really getting the off road itch.
 
#16 ·
A quick guestimate would be --- about $5000.

- $2000 should get you a set of 35" tires and wheels
- $1500 maximum for regearing the stock axles. You may be able to get this done for as low as $800. You didn't say if you have a 3.8 or a 3.6. If its a 3.8 with an auto trans you need to regear, and its impossible to gear that one too low. Go with 5.13 or 5.38 gears if you want. If its a 3.6 you may not need to regear at all, especially if you already have 4.10 gears.
- $1500 should get you an economical lift capable of running 35" tires.
 
#17 ·
Running a 3.6 manual with 3.21's. Guessing I'll have to go a bit lower. I've thought about maybe seeing if i can get a used or oem 4.10 out of a rubicon somehow but I have a feeling that'll also be more work than I'm anticipating
 
#20 ·
You could get by for awhile with the 3.6L and 3.21's but it isn't ideal. I've been dd'ing 60 miles a day with it for about 9 months. Really isn't as bad as some make it out to be, especially with a manual. 5th gear puts you in a perfect rpm range for highway, just don't need 6th. As for crawling in the rocks, it does kinda sucks, but i have a 4:1 transfercase now, so it isn't a problem at all anymore. Will be going to 4.10 and 4.56 sometime next year maybe after i regroup from wedding costs:shitstorm: As for 4.10's being so much more expensive, Marcus (RCO) gave me the same quote for 4.10/4.56 if i recall correctly.

That all being said, big X2 on just supplying some beer and food and hosting a wrenching party with local jeepers/ friends. Lift installs aren't hard at all.
 
#21 · (Edited)
RUN.

And find a new shop.

Realistically, you are looking at a 2.5"-4" lift. Prices vary widely depending on which suspension components you replace, and the features of the new suspension components.

I wouldn't run a 35x12.50rWhatever on a stock wheel. I would look at a wider wheel. A 17x9 or 17x10 would suit your application well. Though I guess a 35x12.50 tire on a 17x8 wheel would create a pseudo street beadlock. ;)

Do you need an axle swap? Hell no. Do you need a regear? You decide... especially if you're mall crawling. To get back to "stock" performance specs, you will probably be looking at moving to a gear ratio somewhere between 4.56 and 5.13 depending on preference, auto or manual transmission, and your application. There are gear ratio to tire size charts all over the internet. That being said, you may like how your JK drives with the bigger tires while keeping the gear ratios the same. If you ever want to go--or think you'll ever go--with bigger tires, I'd recommend you overgear. Regears run around $1500-$1600 in the northeast. It would be wise to only spend that money once.

As USMC pointed out, watch your ball joints. If you're mall crawling, trusses or C gussets are probably not needed, but would be relatively cheap insurance in case you ever get the itch to hit the trails. My old D44 rear held up perfect with 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers. My old D30 front ring and pinion lasted about a year before I shredded them. But I love playing in rock gardens. YMMV.
 
#30 ·
The above info regarding upper C gussets and ball joints is critical. The rest of the stuff is up to you. 60's do seem quite extensive for 35's unless you plan on racing Ultra 4 with it. LOL.

If you have any questions regarding any of our Rock Krawler Suspension Systems, let us know. We are here to help. Good luck with your build…

If you want to make the trek up to our shop just outside of Albany NY, we would be more than happy to help you out.

RK
 
#23 · (Edited)
Cody,

^^All good advice, especially the attempted "ass raping" of that shop - RUN and don't look back!

One thing is, you didn't mention your budget ...

As for suspension, you're looking to mall crawl it. Maybe some dirt/fire roads & beach trips, right? Personally, if that were my criteria / use, I would forgo the suspension lift and go with a body lift. Rough Country makes this one: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-body-lift-kit-rc600.htmlHERE

- It's cheap
- A body lift won't change the handling of your jeep - should not have any gremlins to chase down
- It's pretty easy to do. Can be done in the driveway with a few wooden blocks (2x4's) and a jack - 2 or 3 friends helping wouldn't hurt either
- cheap, did I mention it's cheap ;)

You'd be surprised what a stock JK can do offroad, so no rush to go out and splurg on a high $$ lift.

Tire & wheels will run $2k-$3k depending on what you want. With your intended purpose, I'd look at some AT's in 315/70r17 size. You can run stock wheels with 35's if you get wheel spacers. I like the look of the stock aluminum wheels painted/powder coated/plasti-dipped black. But, that's just me.

As for regear, drive it with 35's for a while. You might loose 5th gear, but that's no big deal. If you hate it, then look into 4.56 gears and you'll need between $1200 - $1800 depending on shops in your area.

good luck, and whatever you decide, post up pics :beer:
 
#27 ·
Thanks for the tip. Hey NJRIN, thanks for the volunteer but I think it may be just a bit too far away for my needs (ie if something goes wrong etc)

How much would you guys expect to pay in labor on top of the price of the lift?
 
#28 ·
How much would you guys expect to pay in labor on top of the price of the lift?
It largely depends on the lift you go with. For a body lifts and budget boosts, you're looking at a couple of hours of shop labor for an honest shop. As a lift begins to replace more components, the price of installing the lift (naturally) goes up.

Have you decided on a lift yet?
 
#29 ·
There are plenty of other shops in CT that would do better than that. Claytons is in the area, SVE Performance as well. If you don't want to do the work yourself, I would contact a few of those shops. Or look around on some of the local Club websites.