I might be completely wrong or it might not be what you want but I know there is a company in Indiana that is about to redo my hub on the Dana 60 to any bolt pattern. It's 85 dollar each. Like I said I might be completely wrong but I remember hearing that. Bump for a more definite answer.

 

1 and 3/8 thick but:
http://www.spidertrax.com/Jeep-5x5-1-2-Wheel-Adapters?sc=2&category=9993

 

Definitely aware of adapters. [See thread title] BORA can do them 1", but that'll give me 3" backspacing. Which is a bit excessive. Was trying to avoid that.


Sent via paper airplane

 

I wouldn't buy the wheels.. or buy them and resell for profit to get correct wheels.

Or Spyntech.

Other than that makes no sense to adapt your axle to fit a wheel.. get wheel to fit your axle.

 

There is a very good chance they will fit the axle, just not today. Buying wheels and going to spyntecs in a year doesn't make any sense either....Wasn't really a "should i buy these wheels?" post though. I want the wheels, the rig will grow into them..at the price, it's not a bad idea...just a little soon.

 

Any reason in specific you don't want to run spacers?

I mean, yes it will be wider, but theirs positives and negatives.

Negatives: higher stress on the balljoints and unit bearings. Harder to fit in tight spaces

Positives: more positive scrub radius, so easier to turn at slow (crawl speeds) but it will be harder to turn when on the brakes, and more sensitive at speed. Also you will have some, I'll admit small, increase in stability due to the wider track as well.

I run at about 3.2" backspace right now with a 12.5" wide tire and see no problems with it.

 

It just wasn't my first choice to be that wide, it's also harder on the rear axle flanges as well. That's the route I'll be going, but just needed to make sure I wasn't over-looking something else in the mean-time. I'll be going 2.4" wider by rim and 1" wider rim with [just due to the beadlocks]...it's going to look huge compared to what it does now.:lol:

 

any machine shop can drill your unit bearings to have a 2nd 5 bolt pattern. Do the rotors while there.
bribe with beer

 

If I had some spare unit bearings laying around I'd be able to look at how much material is there to play with.

I don't recall if there is enough meat there to do that.

 

Stop by the local junk yard and pick up a old 5 on 5.5 rotor when times comes to re drill. This will make it much easier to transfer over the bolt pattern. I just layed the rotor on top of the other and used a centering punch took only 15 min to do both of the rears.



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Do you know of any junkyard rotors with the same JK center bore?

 

I'm not sure. I know the one I used did have a larger bore. I'm thinking it was off a older model f150 or 250 but don't hold me to it. It's been awhile since I've done it.


Edit: check out the Napa break website it has all the measurements on almost every rotor made. It includes hat and bore sizes. It helped me out trying to find the front rotors I needed for the 60 swap I did. Might be worth looking at.
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Here is the link I used. If it's possible you will find what you are looking for here. Remember you can always open up the bore size, turn down the dia and re drill if need be.

http://ecatalograck.genpt.com/pdfcat/BrakeIllustratedPartsGuide_linked/skin/entrymap/entrymap_napa.asp?SkinId=7.4.4.1

 

Definitely not enough material to work there. I poked around looking at Ram hubs, looks like they are 33 spline outers. Dammit!

Looks like adapters for meow.

 

Looks like adapters for meow.

Extra wide and short 2dr wheelbase = jeep chode.

 

Here is a pic of the stud press-in diameter - ~0.587" - It looks like you would be drilling into the backside chamfer by ~0.100" (backside chamfer width - 0.25" & distance between stud OD @ press dia to edge of unit bearing - 0.400")

 

J-8 Unit Bearings

If you can get your paws on a set of J-8 military unit bearings and rotors (5 x 5.5), your problems are solved! Unfortunately, last time I checked, Dynatrac/AEV/Mopar would gladly sell you a J-8 axle assembly, but not the replacement/service parts (bearings & rotors). Go figure! I did find a source in Africa and in Egypt, but seemed like too much of a hassle to go that route...

 

You could always use threaded wheel studs and not press in, then you would only have a 1/2" shank