Awesome! Glad to see this, I ordered the exact same kit Friday of last week! Have to agree, the guys over there were great to talk to, were very accommodating to some shipping " challenges" i have right now while I'm in the process of closing on a new address, and their price on this kit is way better than the only other company I have found that is offering the same products!! Mine should be here this week, cant wait to see it in person!

 

Wow, thanks for the great write-up ALASHA. We can't wait to see everyone punish this product on the trails.

We spent a year trying different ideas out and this is the only setup that does everything we wanted.

- NO drilling and NO reaming
- Fits stock 17" wheels
- Rod end cartridges are replaceable
- The drag link can work in the standard under knuckle position or be flipped by inserting the cartridge in the opposite direction
- Tie rod design limits movement (big when it comes to hydro assist)

Lastly, we wanted to build the strongest tie rod and drag link on the market for the JK and do it at a price that makes sense. It is something that needs to be seen in person to understand just how much beef there is.

We're working on some promotions for JKO members and hope to have those up soon along with some of our other new product releases.

Thanks again for the support!

 

Nicely done !!!!


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Now THAT is some BEEF!!!

 

Alasha - the clearance looks tight with the ram mount. Curious if this works out. I suppose a you could position it the other way using a custom mount at the axle and direct the ram towards the passenger side of of the tie rod. Kind of like this. Looks great! Nice setup.

 

Yeah we thought of that. I have to wait for the axle to be installed and then we shall see what i can get away with. Waiting on parts FREAKIN SUCKS!!!!!

Do you have more pics of that set up? Just wondering how the ram is sitting respective to the tie rod and who made those tabs?

 

If you position the ram so that the clamp at full passenger (compressed) is maybe an inch passenger of the diff, you should have no issues. As soon as you start to turn driver, the clamp will quickly move away from the axle due to how deep the knuckles are in the steering arc. Then you have a good 6" of travel before it gets close to the axle again and you will be passed the tall part of the diff.

Reversing the ram is another option, just don't forget to switch the ram lines around (unless you don't like your steering box!).

 

That bend in the arm has me wondering how much will it take , especially with hydro assist .

 

It is a 1-1/4" solid forging. Stronger than any JK tie rod end available. And far stronger than something like a synergy tie rod where there is a bend in a hollow tube. If you have ever watched someone in rocks with a Synergy and hydro, it flexes around the bends. There is nothing wrong with that, to be clear. The weakest design is a bend in a tube or bar. That is why you don't see a rock bouncer or ultra4 with bends in control arms.

Here is a picture of a GM one ton end next to the drag link end.

 

Seeing all these new badass d60's is almost making me regret my SD 60/14B swap and go with a set of them. Pretty awesome to see a good product at a good price too.

 

That tie rod looks great. I can't wait to see their Fab 9 housing. They have some nice looking stuff.

 

Looking forward to seeing what the jko discount is going to be! I'm tired of my synergy tierod ends getting loose and the boots ripping with my hydro assist after only running them for a few months...

 

Tie rod looks massive! Been working with them for a little bit now on a set of axles, service has been absolutely great!

 

Totally agree! I've been working with Fusion4x4 for a week or so on an axle build (front and rear) for my JK and the service has been great!

 

Ok , yes it is massive , but the bend still has me wondering and yes you have that huge cartridge but you have the same size tapper from the BJ have you just moved the weak link ? Not trying to bash the product here just trying to get the right info . With tons wouldn't you want a high steer set up with a straight bar ?

 

It is a 1-1/4" solid forging. That is stronger than just about any JK control arm on the market with a bend in it, and I suspect you are running control arms with bends in them? Another way to say it, there is not a stronger tie rod end design. The dog leg is stronger than just having a curve like others you see. Something like a Synergy is not even close in terms of strength. Not that the Synergy is bad, just using a popular comparison. Think about it this way, we could bend solid bar into the same shape and use a GM 1 ton end, but that is not as strong. Forgings don't have the weakness that bent tube or bar will have.

As for taper, the size of the taper is not correlated to strength. The JK taper is used on the Ram trucks. It is a manufacturer preference. If you want, we do offer it with three other cartridge options: small GM taper (what everyone calls GM 1 tons), large GM taper (a lot larger), and a .750 straight stud. We can put the massive GM large end on if someone really wants it. Price is the same. The weakness in a rod end happens below the stud and that is where the massive cartridge makes a difference.

Unfortunately, late model 60s have a diff cast that results in more of the ring gear extending from the front. The result is that you can't run a straight tie rod and clear a diff cover - trust us, we have tried everything on the 60s. Even offset GM ends won't cut it. Could you run it off high steer arms? Yes, but then you are talking about custom 60s using Reid knuckles. There would also be a lot of modifications needed on a JK for a setup like that.

 

Thanks for the info !

 

Check out New Product News for pricing on Fusion 4x4 2.5 ton and 1 ton steering and JKO forum discounts!

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310217

 

For the price you guys can't machine flats on the ends ?

 

If you want flats, we can add them. We don't as they are not needed and create a weak spot in the bar. In fact, I find it easier to tighten the jam nuts without them. It also takes away from the appearance. You'll notice that most aluminum tie rod options on the market do not have wrench flats. If someone did want them, we'd recommend adding them inside of where the ends are machined and only to have a flat on the top and bottom. If you are talking about machining the end to six sided, I'd have to pause on that. We will only send out product we believe is safe. Tie rods need to take a tremendous amount of abuse and we have to consider that along with the unique properties of aluminum.

Again, if you want to request flats, we are happy to add at no charge.

As for price, the other comparable options are $1250 and $1400 (no flats for $1400). Relatively speaking, we are very aggressive on price, especially with the 10% off for JKO members.

 

Quick update. The rubber boots arent supposed to be installed on the tie rod ends. Only on the drag link. I was never good at reading instructions.

 

Thanks for the info. How is your axle install going? Looking forward to seeing more pics. I will be running the Fusion4x4 tie rod and drag link with my axle build as well.

 

^ Just a little orange drank.