I'm looking into the TF kit. That's why I ask

 

Most run a raised axle TB bracket when running a flipped drag link because it puts the trackbar and drag link in the same plane, providing smoother travel with less bump steer.

When running a teraflex TB and raised axle bracket, the bend on the Tera bar hits the pitman arm near full passenger side compression. That's why the drop the frame side instead. Unfortunately, while it puts the drag link and TB parallel to each other, they are no longer in the same plane.

In reguards to your bumpstops question, you still need enough to keep the drag link off the frame. Usually 3" or so

 

Interesting..

I know being parallel is key. I thought being parallel would put them in the same plane

 

Nope.... You have to raise up at one end or lower at the other to keep them parallel AND in the same plane... Some people run different planes tho with no complaint

 

Makes sense .... But what do I know

I know the DL needs to be flipped as well. The Tera kits drops the TB and raises the DL.
I was just wanted to know the difference between axle and frame when doing a DL flip.

 

Raising the track bar at the axle will raise the roll center of the jeep and make it more stable. You want to raise the drag link as well with a flip to keep the steering geometry in sync.

 

,
Woundnt dropping the track bar keep it from hitting the passenger frame negating the need for added bumpstops ?

Ken

Drag link would still hit the frame..




Sent via paper airplane

 

the difference is just one side is raised and the other is lowered.

however, re: tb, more stress is applied when you lower the frame point versus when you raise the axle side bracket...


soooooo.... avoid lowering the tb! just raise it

 

And I assume that's what the added brace is for.

 

Yes, that's why they have a link that ties to the other side of the frame

 

I've run the Poly raised TB bracket with the TF monster track bar and had no issues whatsoever with pitman arm contact. Worked great. I'm now running Tera's frame side drop because it works better with their Dual Rate sway bar setup than the Poly bracket did. The performance differences are minimal, both are extremely stable on the road. There is a tiny bit of bump steer with the TB mount dropped at the frame that wasn't there with the axle side raised bracket, but if you hadn't experienced the latter you'd never notice it. On the trail there is less "flex steer" with the frame side drop. That is the tendency of the wheels to steer themselves when going over obstacles as the front axle articulates.

My setup:

If you run an axle side raised bracket be sure and pull the springs, lift the axle on both sides until you get frame contact and determine the amount of bump stop you'll need. The bracket, track bar and drag link don't want to be your bump stop on the passenger side.

 

How much bumpstop are you running? With my Artec axle bracket and highsteer I run 2.5" bumpstops to just barely clear the frame. My TB hits the pitman arm. I need prolly .5-1" more bumpstop to stop it.

 

I have TF Speedbumps F&R, provide about the equivalent of a 4" bump stop.

 

Ok that makes sense then. Right now I'm getting nearly 100% use of my 11" travel shocks, so I'd like to not have to limit uptravel any more than I need to.

 

Take the springs off, leave the shocks on, and lift the axle on both sides until something contacts the frame, etc. Make sure to cycle the steering, too and see if anything is hitting. Drop the axle about 1/2" from the point at lowest point of contact & measure the distance between the spring pad bump stop and the bottom of the metal jounce tube. That's the amount of bump stop you need.

 

Dont forget to fully articulate the axel too. On LHD JK an axel at full stuff on r/h side and full droop on l/h side will see the drag link closest to the chassis and contact the passenger frame as you turn the steering to full right lock.

 

Correct, you have to measure your bump stop requirement accordingly.

 

Would the Tera frame-side drop bracket be a viable option for me? I'm running RK 2.5-inch springs, which gave me about 3 inches of lift. I'm afraid of not having enough clearance for axle-side relocation brackets, and I don't have a local shop I'd trust to weld-on a bracket like the one from RK. Any ideas?

Edit - I also already have the RK track bar, but no steering upgrades. I've been looking at using the RK drag link and tie rod.

 

You still have the drag link do worry about.

 

You might have some clearance problems with it. At 2.5" I'd think you could just stay stock. The axle side relo will work with enough bump stop. When I had 3" springs on mine and 2.5" of stop it just cleared.