Hey so i was getting all of these codes like large evap leak, small evap leak, and gascap so i checked out my evap canister for cracks.... nothing i even disconected it to make sure nothing was cracked so i followed the lines and found my culperet... sorry for the spelling... anyway its an evap line the one that sits to the right of the line on the evap box connected to the white box thing that is attached to the evap canister... this line runs all the way back to the top of the gas tank and into a white plastic plenum looking thing on the top of the gas tank....mine line connecting to that plenum looking thing on top of the gas tank is snaped and not connected anymore.... can anyone tell me what that plenum looking thing is and how or what i should replace to replace that broken part i have.... also my ESP senor light and my little jeep swurve picture light are both on and are on constantly.... does this look like a job for the ever dreaded stealership???? someone help its about to be winter up here in the the north country of NY and it gets rough REAL rough in the winter!!!! thanks to anyone who has any information to give ill try to take pictures and post them so its a better description of what im talking about.. FYI i tried to super glue the broken part together again in hopes it would hold me over till i can get to the money to fix it properly bad decission?? :shitstorm:
EVAP line coming from gas tank snapped! HELP!!!
circus120
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2011 JK 2 door manual transmission 5.13s, 2 inch Kings, Maxxis Trepadores on Beadlocks.
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Mine are held on by JB weld at both ends , For an off road vehicle they really should use stronger fitting Been holding on there since 2012.
if you haven't invested in a Evap Canister skid plate , would highly recommend that as they (at least my 2011) did not even have it covered. Stupid place to not have a cover over a plastic part.
if you haven't invested in a Evap Canister skid plate , would highly recommend that as they (at least my 2011) did not even have it covered. Stupid place to not have a cover over a plastic part.
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142 Posts
Hey guys. Old thread but I'm just having the problem now. I couldn't find the leak, but the dealer did the smoke test and found it at this spot. It sounds like I'll need to drop the tank to really work on it? Any updates on how well different fixes have worked? Best materials to use for replacement tubing and sealants? Thanks.
FYI, dealer wanted $1400 to fix. $650 of that is the tank.
FYI, dealer wanted $1400 to fix. $650 of that is the tank.
Fix
I had this issue on my 2010 JK. I had an evap code and while poking around underneath I heard a "snap!" and I knew I must have found the problem. Sure enough, the plastic tubing had snapped at the connection on top the gas tank. After spending 30 minutes at Home Depot and not finding anything that would work, I stopped at Advance Auto and picked up a box of "Vacuum Connector Assortment" by Dorman. One of the connectors in the box is a 1/8" x 1/8" connector and fits perfectly inside the plastic tubing that was broken. I coated the piece and the insides of the broken tubing with PVC cement and stuck it in. Evap code cleared after driving a few miles and stopping and starting the engine again.
I had this issue on my 2010 JK. I had an evap code and while poking around underneath I heard a "snap!" and I knew I must have found the problem. Sure enough, the plastic tubing had snapped at the connection on top the gas tank. After spending 30 minutes at Home Depot and not finding anything that would work, I stopped at Advance Auto and picked up a box of "Vacuum Connector Assortment" by Dorman. One of the connectors in the box is a 1/8" x 1/8" connector and fits perfectly inside the plastic tubing that was broken. I coated the piece and the insides of the broken tubing with PVC cement and stuck it in. Evap code cleared after driving a few miles and stopping and starting the engine again.
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142 Posts
I poked around under there today and luckily, the crack is fairly easily visible from behind with the tank in place. It felt fairly sturdy still, so I'm taking my chances with "JB Plastic Bonder". Just globbing it all over around the cracked area. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll hold.
By the way, how do you disconnect that connector (I asked in another thread already)?
![Image]()
By the way, how do you disconnect that connector (I asked in another thread already)?
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110 Posts
That line goes to the fuel filler neck, not the evap canister. Mine finally broke off today. I kept getting the small evap leak code (when it was cracked I am assuming) and then I got a large evap leak code today and noticed the hose completed snapped off. I plugged it for now until I can figure out a fix.
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27 Posts
Having the same issue really appreciate the videos but my line is not just broken it is completely missing is there where the connection goes ? The black line is located above and behind the evap canister
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well, I’m gonna go with one of these two possible explanations:
(A) your emergency brake cables were stretched taut enough from extreme rear suspension down-travel to have broken the fuel tank connector off and the other end up-clipped itself (? doesn’t seem likely but have seen weirder)
or
(B) somebody needed the connector for one they mucked-up during an evap canister relocation or something related & while you were elsewhere , crawled up under your Jeep , unclipped the end in first picture and just snapped the fuel tank side off .
I suppose something COULD have gotten up in there and yanked /broke it but that would have done some additional damage to the other fuel tank ports and hose.
you been flexing on any RTI ramps or anything ?
:jeep2:
Well, I think I found a decent fix to this problem. My evap line snapped off just under the passenger seat (front of gas tank top side). And I only have two pics but maybe this will help you out. I took a metric bolt roughly 3” long and cut a section off of it. Leaving me about 1.75”. Threaded on 3 nuts tightly ands such that they’d all line up, then I put my bolt in the lathe. Drilled a 1/8th hole the length of it. Tig welded the nut you can see on. Then I crawled under and threaded it in the hole while it was still quite warm. Used a screwdriver style but driver. Screwed it in most of the way then removed it. Once it cooled I lathered some 2 part epoxy on the threads of the bolt and put it back in. Tightened up nice. Then I took a piece of 3/8” hose maybe 3” long and used a 3/8” press fit tube coupled to couple the hose extension I was adding, to the broken piece of tube. I snoop tested it and it didn’t leak when I blew in it so I say she’s good. Then I put some 2 part epoxy on the shaft of the bolt sticking out and tightened the hose on it with a hose clamp. All the while using a little mirror. Hope this helps.
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Trying this fix!
I am having the same problem and after lots of searching, I found this connector on eBay. According to my measurements, it will fit just right. (I am new to the forum so I can't post a link yet)
Fuel Line Quick Connector 5mm or 3/16” Barb to 5/16” Bundy Male Tube.
Anyone tried this yet?
I am having the same problem and after lots of searching, I found this connector on eBay. According to my measurements, it will fit just right. (I am new to the forum so I can't post a link yet)
Fuel Line Quick Connector 5mm or 3/16” Barb to 5/16” Bundy Male Tube.
Anyone tried this yet?
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i have a 2010 wrangler with this problem. bought the vacuum connector kit and found the 1/8 connector is too small. The inside diameter of the broken nipple is closer to 3/16. also i experimented and pvc will not bond to that plastic.
what i ended up doing is taking a tube off of a spray bottle of shout and it fit very tightly into the nipple. i couldn't pull it back out to super glue it, so i put a little on the sprayer tube and stuck it in the housing and put the line back on and zip tied it. haven't drove it to see if the codes will stay gone but the sprayer tube fit so tight i can't imagine it leaking.
imo this failure is caused by jeep. first of all, how stupid is it to make a part that has a plastic nipple sticking out there three inches and if it breaks you can't just replace the broken plastic part, in order to repair it properly you have to replace the whole gas tank, but then strap a line to it and put it under stress and then ziptie the sh*t out of it so that any movement pulls on that nipple.
what i ended up doing is taking a tube off of a spray bottle of shout and it fit very tightly into the nipple. i couldn't pull it back out to super glue it, so i put a little on the sprayer tube and stuck it in the housing and put the line back on and zip tied it. haven't drove it to see if the codes will stay gone but the sprayer tube fit so tight i can't imagine it leaking.
imo this failure is caused by jeep. first of all, how stupid is it to make a part that has a plastic nipple sticking out there three inches and if it breaks you can't just replace the broken plastic part, in order to repair it properly you have to replace the whole gas tank, but then strap a line to it and put it under stress and then ziptie the sh*t out of it so that any movement pulls on that nipple.
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re: the inability to post a link due-to being new to forum, think around the limitation... post like this ( we will understand wtf you mean) :
httpCOLONslash-slashwwwDOTsitenameDOTcom
:wink2:
:jeep2:
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5,585 Posts
I realized during one of the many suspension travel tests I have had to do over the last 6 years that once I was no longer using that default, factory parking-brake wire-hanger bracket that sits above the rear diff, that by-design the 4door's parking -brake cables were pulling taut whenever the rear fully drooped offroad.
I re-routed the e-brake cables under the fuel-filler hose & that EVAP smaller hose which goes to the fitting you guys are talking about/snapped-off. I ran them above the parking brake cables & then I no longer had to stress about snapping one of these tank vent-cap nipples off. c
May I suggest/recommend the use of epoxy ( JBWeld makes a great plastic epoxy that would be suited for this type repair) instead of SuperGlue for this ? the super glue is not going to take exposure to undercarriage elements if combined with jostled ride vibrations & the bond will break over a short time period resulting in you probably having to do this all over again
:jeep2:
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the fit is so tight jb weld wouldn't work. we are talking about an air leak and plastic/rubber parts anyway. the tube from the Shout bottle fits so tight you don't really need anything to bond it. i made the repair 4 months ago and am happy to report no engine codes since.
My solution
I used a short (~1" lg) piece of steel brake line (3/16 OD) as an "insert" to bridge the broken port with the base. This was done after "carefully" drilling both sides of plastic port passage with a 3/16" drill bit. Hint: Careful drilling as the drill will want to grab the plastic and wedge itself, feed drill slow). I also beveled both ends of the brake line on my disk/belt sander and used gorilla glue.
I used a short (~1" lg) piece of steel brake line (3/16 OD) as an "insert" to bridge the broken port with the base. This was done after "carefully" drilling both sides of plastic port passage with a 3/16" drill bit. Hint: Careful drilling as the drill will want to grab the plastic and wedge itself, feed drill slow). I also beveled both ends of the brake line on my disk/belt sander and used gorilla glue.
They may need to pass smog.
In CA, the evap cannister and it's connections are part of the visual inspection. If they are missing or modified, it can result in a fail. If the Emissions system does not come to IM readiness, it's a fail.
Fair point. In my state we don't have smog checks
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