Sorry but you have unreasonable expectations.

Just what do you expect the dealer to do by telling them the code? The code doesn't diagnose anything, it gives an idea of what is going on. The $100 you would be paying is to pull faults and basic diagnostics.Generally the minimum requirements for an evap system fault is to smoke test the system to check for leaks..but I'm sure you didn't want to pay for that either. The other mistake you are making is that it seems like you do not know that non-OBDII faults exist. OBDII is a federally mandated code system which covers very basic parameters and gives very basic data with it. Manufacture specific codes can be pulled by higher end code readers and factory diagnostic software. They usually offer more specific data and are codes that you cannot read.

The second mistake you made was listening to free tech advice from a service manager. Today's service managers have likely never changed oil and have no place giving advice. Shops also do not like giving advice over the phone, not only for this very reason, but it is something they get paid to do. If I replaced every part that a customer said was broken, I'd have more money and a lot fewer fixed vehicles...the shop does the diagnosing and fixing, not the customer. This is why you keep getting in "disagreements" and "arguments"..Fix it yourself or not. No shop wants to deal with a know-it-all owner that really doesn't know whats going on...but you'll probably just add me to the dipshit list you've created regarding your trouble code.

So what to do at this point?


Your choices are to start replacing parts, buy a $750-$1000 smoke tester and do it yourself, or pay someone to smoke test it.

 

I think you misunderstood what I was attempting to say. Prob my fault as it was 3am and I had just got home from work and wet and miserably cold and at the moment a bit too much on my plate that I'm trying to deal with. I do have the reader that gives manufacturer specific codes. I bought thee jeep in late January and paid an extra 3 grand for an after market warranty. These dealers don't want to accept the pulled out code readings the reader is giving me and the one the jeep is giving me.That's the issue. If it takes me less than a minute to pull the code, why should I pay them that amount to repeat.And if they get the same code I got do I still have to pay that money. I have no problem paying for legitimate work. It just comes across as a bit of a moneymaking scam. That's what set me off. And you seem to have a good deal of competence and the ability to explain things, Thanks I do appreciate that.

 

you are not paying them to pull a code you are paying them to diagnose a code

the only way to properly diagnose a P0440 is to smoke test the vehicle. thats where the 100$ would be going. a P0440 means noting except smoke test it andfigure out if theres a leak or a malfunctioning part. if u wanna take a guess yourself , get an LDP pump and in the process of getting to the ldp look at hoses, the most common places for leaks is near the canister and ldp pump

 

Just a tiny problem, there is no lcp on the JK:cwm13:
There is the Evaporative System Integrity Detector which is the white Polymer module that is mounted to the Evap Canister. It's in essence an air flow sensor with a couple of check valves in it.
Then there is the Evap Purge solenoid which is located in the Engine compartment to the front right of the Battery and that's pretty much it on the electrical/electronic side ff the fuel evap system.

TheDjay, if you want to self diagnose a bit here the following:
Check the evap canister for any obvious damage/cracks
Check hoses for any damage/kinks, that includes all hoses from the filler to/from the tank, to/from the Evap Purge solenoid, to/from the evap canister and vent filter (inside driver rear fender well by the filler neck).
Check electrical plugs on the integrity detector and evap purge solenoid.
Take the filler cap off, inside in the middle there is a check valve, try to suck air through it (enjoy the fumes), the check valve should open with a little bit of resistance, if you try to blow air through it it should close completely.
Check the evap purge solenoid by pulling it out of it's retainer, then disconnect the tubing connected to the bottom the the solenoid, have someone start the engine and short after starting there should be air drawn in at the bottom of the solenoid (don't get dirt sucked in).
Hope that helps

 

Actually I originally wrote ESIM. But went back and changed it to ldp because alldata said ldp for 07....but yeah your right and an Esim cost about 15$ and they have been known to go bad

 

I just went through the same thing. Replaced cannister the ESID connected to it and the Purge under the hood along with cap. All for under 100.00 from Dealer. Cleared everything and went through emissions. When you connect the ESID make sure to use the gasket from the old one my new one didn't come with one.

 

LOL well that might work if you just want to throw parts at it. The ESID is pretty cheap and yes it doesn't come with the gasket which has an extra part number. When replacing the ESID it is important not to install the new one upside down on the Evap Canister cus it will throw an error for it

Well I replaced everything for the simple fact the dealer didn't when I had a new motor installed. Yes I hydro-locked it in the river Lol. Then two days after I got it back was in the river again that is when I threw the code. So I just replaced it all and was done with it. Then I wanted to see what the canister looked like inside so cut it open and the carbon in it was clumped like kitty litter. Maybe throwing money around but less than 100.00 and 20 min. of my time. I feel it was well spent since the dealership should have checked the whole system because I told them that I was in the river and took on water in the fuel tank.

 

LOL well that might work if you just want to throw parts at it. The ESID is pretty cheap and yes it doesn't come with the gasket which has an extra part number. When replacing the ESID it is important not to install the new one upside down on the Evap Canister cus it will throw an error for it

 

I'm going to bite the bullet and swallow my pride. I booked it in for tomorrow morning to a Professional licenced facility. It will be repaired hopefully under this warranty I paid extra for, if not I will have to cough up the cash. Either way I still really enjoy the JK even if it empties every pocket. lol. And thanks to every one who made the great suggestions. Makes me happy to be part of this community. I'll post the results when I get it back.

 

So I picked up my rig after the service center called me and told me it was fixed. $200.00 later I was told it was the ESID and they didn't replace it just cleaned it and freed a sticking valve. Seems to be ok so far. My super expensive $3000.00 after market warranty refused to pay for the diagnostics and repair. I even paid for extra coverage for this extra electronics and extra front end coverage and was told I wad covered bumper to bumper. I guess since the evap system is not mounted on the bumper it's not covered. I hope this is the end of this issue.

 

Well a new ESID is about 10 USD and takes about 5 minutes to change it. I think replacing it would have been cheaper than the labor to clean it

 

I agree with replacing the esim. And I myself work at a dealership and 200$ is ridiculous and its embarrasing and people and dealerships like that give us all bad names