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Discussion Starter #1
(how sick are you of these questions??)


Hello!

Well, I am kind of a n00b when it comes to lift kits, and the things that need to be done.

I have a 2008 Rubicon Unlimited manual tranny, and I am looking to get the poly performance stage 3 suspension lift (4.5") (with the adj. shocks)

should I be getting the adj. track bars as well?

What gears should I be getting, if I am running 37's?

What other parts should be upgraded due to the lift?

I am looking to price this all out now, so I dont have to 'hack' it together piece by piece, I'd rather only bring my jeep in once to get this done.

I have searched this forum a million times, read many opinions, but never have I come accross a thread that asks for everything all at once...

Any help would be awesome!!!!
 

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I dunno anything about the track bars as I dont know what the poly kit stage III entails....but I do know 37s...go 4.88 minimum and 5.13 works just fine ( you'll get some opinions on that). I'd buy new shafts if it was me. You're gonna want them eventually. Get the front bumper/winch and get rear bumper w/ full size tire carrier (if you truly dont want to have to continue upgrades). High steer kit (poly). Beefy tie rod (poly).

Im basically tellling you what I've done/am doing.

have fun...
 

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Only thing the kit does not include that you are looking at is the drive shafts. That will be the biggest thing. Otherwise the kit includes everything you need fr the lift.

As mentioned, plan on regearing. YOu have a d44 front and rear so I would say 5.13's for those or 5.38's depending on how deep you feel comfortable going.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Only thing the kit does not include that you are looking at is the drive shafts. That will be the biggest thing. Otherwise the kit includes everything you need fr the lift.

As mentioned, plan on regearing. YOu have a d44 front and rear so I would say 5.13's for those or 5.38's depending on how deep you feel comfortable going.
what do u mean how deep?

Which gears would be "overkill" i know nothing of ratios lol.

to answer the other post, I do have a winch bumper, and I will be getting the new rear bumper / tire carrier when I get the lift, i have that $ set aside as it is.


So to sum this up, for the lift kit i mentioned, the only additional parts would be:

- (obviously) tires/rims....
- drive shafts (what size? or any links to places who would have them for the jk in the size i would need for this kit?)
- gears (any brand, or any suggestions on that as well?)

Thanks for the quick replies....man I love this forum!!
 

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Im running JE REEL shafts...I like em just fine. Lotta folks using them. There are others.. I am running the 1310s. the 1350s are the beefy bastards. Gears, I am running superior 5.13s.

The "deeper" the gear the more power/more gas you use and the smaller the pinion gets which = it'll break easier. That said, I cant recall reading about any JKs snapping their pinion (I, however, snapped my ring secondary to a bad pinion angle on my lift install - blah blahblah). Ive seen these guys (much more knowledgable than I am) post up that the 5.13 are better for autos and the 4.88 for manuals. I dunno. They'll give you 10 different opinions in the next 24 hours. Suffice to say, better gears will giveyou back the power you're going to lose whenyou get those big tires on there...

sorryif that rambled...drunk.

You know...I got my xenon fender flares to reduce rubbing of my 37s. Also, you might wanna look at your rig at full wheel lock w/ the new lift to see if you have any rubbing on the control arms etc. Wheel spacers'll fix that. If youre buying everything you might wnat/need - how about armor? Skid plates, corner gaurds, sliders.....I'm spending your money so this is kinda fun.

Oh yeah, pull your carpet and line-x the interior! Let's get rid of the foo foo carpet and sling some mudup in there.
 

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Don't feel like a 'newb'. This forum loves to see people build their rigs, and do it right the first time. We try to avoid reinventing the wheel, but we like innovation.
I have an ,07 2 dr Rubi w/ manual. I swap in 4.88's. I have replaced the axels and ring and pinions with Superior Gear products. I also am running JE Reel 1350 driveshafts. No problem so far with these items but there are others Alloy USA gears and axels, Tom Woods drive shafts, etc.
As far as understanding gear ratios on the Quadratec website on the left column is a tab called "Knowledge Center". Click this and it has alot of usfull info.
 

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You've already done your research if you've picked a lift, but here's a link to my poser pics with a Poly 3" Synergy II with 35" on 4.75 backspace wheels. Works great.

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6597

I would have going Synergy III, but ran out of money. I have an auto, so I had to get a new front drive shaft.

You might have them picked out already but what wheels/backspacing are you going with? With 4.75" backspacing I'm really close, but it clears (again, saving money and I bought 1.5" spidertrax spacers to push the wheels out). When i replace the wheels I'll be looking for less backspace.

My personal plan is to move to 37" after I replace axel shafts, re-gear to 5.13 and replace/mod the fenders for more clearance. I'm short, so I'm keeping the 3" springs and triming what I have to (which is minimal on a JK).

Hope that helps.
 

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I would definitely recommend the adjustable track bar, for alignment and handling it makes a tremendous difference. The front and rear lower control arms can be upgraded to flex or adjustable arms from BDS. The Front driveshaft is maxed out at full droop and on certain models; the driveshaft boot can contact the transmission pan. Replacement of the front driveshaft is recommended for off road use. See www.4xshaft.com
 

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should I be getting the adj. track bars as well?
Unless you plan on going over 5" lift or so, there's no need for new track bars with our stage II & III Kits. The stock track bar is a pretty beefy unit, so rather than discard that we added a cam bolt to our Track Bar Relocation bracket. The Cam Bolt has all the adjustability you need up to around 5" of lift, so new track bars aren't necessary until you go beyond that.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
okay thanks!!

believe it or not, based on the pics on the poly website, my wifey is excited about the lift....So....while she's still excited, time to draw myself up the budget!!

I was looking at some tires...anyone deal with pittbull tires?? They seem pretty awesome....

up here there is not much rock to play with, its all mud / muskeg / sand / clay.... so I dont want AT, i'd rather go with MT....(or if for whatever reason I come into $26,000...mattracks HAHA!!) or my dad used to have Nitto mud grapplers on his chev...they were not bad.


<Ramble>
because I just spent alittle time at the Legion, i am in a mood to ramble... :beer:......any of you see that "Getting UNStuck" instructional video?? because my first JK burnt after owning it for 5 months, my cousins would tease me for being stuck all the time, and the movie was in my xmas stocking....needless to say, there are alot of tricks in there that i had no idea about..... with the synthetic winchline for example...
</Ramble>

OOOOH yeah!!! SO, once I get this lift, I will need a re-program of the computer correct?
 

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If you are above 3in. I would for sure do the track bar in front. I did the superlift 4in. and did the track in front. I did a riser in back and it tracks straight. As far as gears, I am doing 35's and trying to figure what ratio to do as well.
 

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okay thanks!!

believe it or not, based on the pics on the poly website, my wifey is excited about the lift....So....while she's still excited, time to draw myself up the budget!!



Budget- " We don't need no stinkin budget" :D Welcome to the addiction.

Have fun with your build. I'm a noob also. This place is a great resource for info. Good luck:beer:
 

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Only thing the kit does not include that you are looking at is the drive shafts. That will be the biggest thing. Otherwise the kit includes everything you need fr the lift.

As mentioned, plan on regearing. YOu have a d44 front and rear so I would say 5.13's for those or 5.38's depending on how deep you feel comfortable going.
I have the Poly Pro Stage III in my Rubi And it is the greatest lift I have ever owned. I run 5.13's pushing my 35" tires and used the Hypertech Max to adjust but if you have a 5 sppeed no worries. Only major concern your lookinat if you HAVE to run 37's is driveshafts since you will be pushing your stock ones to the limit. It seems like you got a good plan with the right choice in products. Just think do you really need 37's? Just by going w/ 35's you save a good chunk of $$$$ in wheels amd tires as well as driveshafts. That combo alone could be a $2000 difference..Thats why I stuck w/ 35's and to keep my rid somewhat close to legal...but its your ride and $$$$$
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah.....after talking to my cousin who has an 07 FJ cruiser....he's willing to buy my rubber if I buy 35's to start with, which buys me some time to save up for the other parts for when I move up to the 37s!


BTW, thanks for the pics, nice ride!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay, so....I have had a pretty rough month....

My Mother was killed in a car accident on Apr. 3rd.....so because of that, I no longer can afford the lift i want.

Any tips on which kind of leveling kit i should get?? I have the Mopar winch bumper, and i totally forget the model of winch .....XD (XP maybe?) 9.5


I just want to level it...because since I have put the Kargomaster and a FULL basket on top (custom made....looks sweet)... you can really notice the sag....


Thanks guys!!!
 

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Did you measure the difference between front and back to determine the needed additional space? Are you just trying to remove a rake?

It really depends on the measurements for folks to truely answer your question. Sorry to hear you had a loss in the family. It's not easy.

I wish I still had my front spacers I would of sent them to you. Check the for sale section for a deal on them since it is only temporary.
 
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