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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have seasoned the stove as instructed 3-4 small but bright fires w damper open and that went well burned off most of the oils ect ! Ive had a couple of fires now and im have issues with front glass souting up. I am not sure what I doing wrong? start a draft well, start w cood dry kindling building up to small wood and then a few logs over a hour or so but Ive not even closed the damper and im souting up ?This is my first run w a stove I grew up w fireplaces so this is all new to me !!! its shitty and rainy and cool here north of boston and im looking to figure this out before winter rolls around again. any ideas what I may be doing wrong ?ILL post some pics of stove and chimney later if that helps ? its a vermont castings Dutchwest model medium size stove non catalyic stove if this makes any difference?:beer:
 

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Sounds like the fire isn't hot enough or you are burning unseasoned or bad wood(pine).

Also, make sure you have your airflow turned all the way up until it gets to operating temp. Then you can turn down for a nice long burn.

I can start a fire & close the door without sooting up in about 20 minutes... you'll get used to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks I know the woods good I think im not getting it hot enough before i close the damper and throtlle the air down but its happening with the damper open as well ( not as much this time just in the middle of the glass so i think patience is working )I have heard about putting a magnetic thermometer on the stove to see what temp it is I guess to get it to ideal burn temp before setting it to slow burn? I know its going to take some time to get it . thanks for the help Im trying to learn from other knowledge on this so the input is appreciated thanks:beer: :shaking::beer:
 

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That's what I did... I put a magnetic one on the front and when it gets up to 350-400, I'll shut the air down to half and keep an eye on the flame/temp. I don't have a damper control, just air control so my flu is always open. You'll get the hang of it, just remember, the hotter the fire the better.
 

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I've been running a wood stove insert for the past few years and the only way I found to control the soot on the glass is to burn very hot fires with well seasoned hardwood. I also have no damper, it is open and the only control is the fresh-air adjustment.

Once a new, hot fire is going, it typically burns most of the soot off except for around the edges. If the soot gets real heavy, before I scoop out the ash, I use wadded newspaper sheets, wet them, dip in the ash and gently scrub away the soot. Gets the glass crystal clear and does not scratch. I mostly use the stove for supplementing the oil heat but around the holidays when we use the formal living room I will clean the glass ahead of time and make sure all the fires are nice and hot.

edit: for temperature taking, I got an infrared/laser themometer from Harbor Freight which works real well...good for showing the kids the temperature of the stove and glass as a warning not to touch. I also use it for checking temps on the boat motor, riser and manifolds...gets a lot of use!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks ill have to get a thermometer to see what im running at !!! im guessing 350- 450 is a good range ? anything over that and im running to hot? anthing lower than that and ill smoke the glass. this last burn just the center is souting so its getting better w each fire!lots of learning on airflow temp ect . trial and error i guess thanks for the replys:beer:just in time for summer!
 

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Really? a woodstove, wow get into modern times!! I use a coal stove, thats where the heat is at.

I have no usefull info for this thread since i burn coal. i have no soot or creasol(sp?) build up.
 

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You shouldn't have a flue damper with an airtight heater. The only control you use is for combustion air. It sounds like you're cutting the air back to much. Does your stove pull a draft well? If the pipe clean? Mine has a hoizontal section that goes through the wall that tends to ash off ( its in the basement) if I don't clean it about twice a year I'll have problems lighting it and have a dirty glass.
I forgot to mention if you go to wood heat.org there is more info on burning wood than most people would care to read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks ill check out that site it has a flue damper and a secondary air control when you come up to temp you close the damper and control the burn rate w the secondary control high-med-low for burn time and heat output the manual says.Its a vermont castings Dutchwest stove non catalytic type.:beer:Ill check out that site it seems im just not getting things hot enough ,wood seems good thinking i just need to try some more and get familar w things and read up on it Ill try to post some pics later
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
this is the stove I think it came out OK for a Plumber:beer: I added 3ft to the chiney after pic was taken to make in code !
 
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