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Discussion Starter #1
I bought 4 of the cheapo Platinum Burner lights to use as rock lights, and would like to wire them up to a single switch on my s-Pod - any electircal gurus out there who can offer some advice?

The lights are 55 watt halogens - the amp draw isn't listed.

JD
 

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Ohm's law:

Volts * Amps = Watts

so....55 watts at 12v = 4.6 amps (round numbers)

In reality, you'll be running at closer to 14.4v with the alternator charging, but it's simpler to do the math at 12v.

You would want to wire the lights in parallel, so the current draw (amps) would add. 4 lights x 4.6 amps ea = 18.4 amps.

The catch here is I don't know what the s-pod switches are rated for. They look a lot like generic Carling switches we use in the marine industry which are typically rated about 20 amps at 12v. ASSUMING (!!) the s-pod is the same, you'd be safe but near the rated limit. A relay wouldn't be a bad idea.

The only other thing to consider is wire gauge. I'd suggest going with 12 gauge given the likely round-trip wiring length (bat pos to fuse to switch to all lights to ground); that should keep voltage drops down to 10% or less up to about 40'.
 

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Power from the spod is through the source, not the switch panel - the switches are hooked up to relays in the source. Just wire the pair of lights to a single set in the source - use two switches for the 4 lights. You could also call John (661-755-8139) and ask his opinion, he is a great dude.



 

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I'm feeling a bit of dumb-ass-ness....I'd never actually looked closely at the spod and assumed it was basically a nice pannel with rocker switches.

The Source box mounted in the engine compartment should handle 20 amps on a single relay if you wanted to wire all lights to one switch. I see on their website they use 30 amp relays with an 8 gauge power feed to The Source.

If you have a long run to the lights I'd still go with 12 gauge from there, but you could likely drop to 14 and still be fine up to 25' or so.
 

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I bought 4 of the cheapo Platinum Burner lights to use as rock lights, and would like to wire them up to a single switch on my s-Pod - any electircal gurus out there who can offer some advice?

The lights are 55 watt halogens - the amp draw isn't listed.

JD
This is possible but it will take a little wire manipulation in the S-Pod relay box. And you will be left with one switch in the S-Pod system that will not have a relay. I'm not familiar with the S-Pod system. But I am extremly familiar with control systems. Basicaly hook up your lights to the relay box like you would be using two switches ( 1 pair of lights per relay ). Then disconnect the switch wire from "1" of the relays. Then make a jumper wire between the disconected relay to the switch on the other relay. Wire each light separately with #14 awg wire. Everything else is probably covered by the S-Pod.
 

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This is possible but it will take a little wire manipulation in the S-Pod relay box. And you will be left with one switch in the S-Pod system that will not have a relay. I'm not familiar with the S-Pod system. But I am extremly familiar with control systems. Basicaly hook up your lights to the relay box like you would be using two switches ( 1 pair of lights per relay ). Then disconnect the switch wire from "1" of the relays. Then make a jumper wire between the disconected relay to the switch on the other relay. Wire each light separately with #14 awg wire. Everything else is probably covered by the S-Pod.
I'm curious why the OP would need to use two circuits.

First off let me say again - I've never had my hands on an Spod system. I know a thing or two about electronics, but not knowing this gear I wonder what the issue is?

From looking at the Spod website it looks like The Source is set up with 30 amp relays fed by 8 awg power wires from the battery through a single 50 amp breaker. 3 of the relays are then fused at 30 amps and 3 at 15 amps.

Again, I haven't actually used one of these things, but from the description above what would be the problem with running all 4 lights (less than 20 amps total) off a single relay? The only issue I can see is that (depending on the stud size) it might be a bit of trouble getting 4 separate power wires on the lug. Although a simple buss bar could fix that easily.

I assume I must be missing something?

BTW, I'm not trying to say your method wouldn't work - it would certainly do so and offer more current carrying capacity.
 

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I'm curious why the OP would need to use two circuits.

First off let me say again - I've never had my hands on an Spod system. I know a thing or two about electronics, but not knowing this gear I wonder what the issue is?

From looking at the Spod website it looks like The Source is set up with 30 amp relays fed by 8 awg power wires from the battery through a single 50 amp breaker. 3 of the relays are then fused at 30 amps and 3 at 15 amps.

Again, I haven't actually used one of these things, but from the description above what would be the problem with running all 4 lights (less than 20 amps total) off a single relay? The only issue I can see is that (depending on the stud size) it might be a bit of trouble getting 4 separate power wires on the lug. Although a simple buss bar could fix that easily.

I assume I must be missing something?

BTW, I'm not trying to say your method wouldn't work - it would certainly do so and offer more current carrying capacity.
With this information, I would agree. I apologize to the OP. I did not take the time to educate myself on the S-Pod system before I made a recomendation. And simply made a recomendation that I knew would be 100% safe. And would have worked even if he accidently used the 15A relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info (and the education) everyone. I left out a few of the important facts about the s-Pod that would have probably made my original question a little easier to answer.

Based on all of the info that you have provided, I know what I need to do now.

Thanks again.

JD
 
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