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Discussion Starter #1
Well seeing how mopar has released the Rubicon axles and we all know the aftermarket will continue to grow for JKs. I have given up on buying a JK Rubicon, The same "X" model stickers for $9,000 less and insurance will be a little less.

So besides spending:
$1500 on a front HP d44
regearing to 5.13s
add a rear Detroit locker
Atlas 4.3
driveshafts
RE 3.5"
run 36s on TR locks
no flares
armor

I'd still end up way better off than buying a Rubi correct? I mean as a pure offroad/dd rig that I never plan to resell.:thefinger:
 

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Well seeing how mopar has released the Rubicon axles and we all know the aftermarket will continue to grow for JKs. I have given up on buying a JK Rubicon, The same "X" model stickers for $9,000 less and insurance will be a little less.

So besides spending:
$1500 on a front HP d44
regearing to 5.13s
add a rear Detroit locker
Atlas 4.3
driveshafts
RE 3.5"
run 36s on TR locks
no flares
armor

I'd still end up way better off than buying a Rubi correct? I mean as a pure offroad/dd rig that I never plan to resell.:thefinger:
You just built yourself a h#ll of a rig,... Rubi with the Warranty would still be a great way to go, unless you want to upgrade everything on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You just built yourself a h#ll of a rig,... Rubi with the Warranty would still be a great way to go, unless you want to upgrade everything on it.

Well lets face it..regearing the axles, lift and 35"+ tires won't be covered under warranty no matter which direction. I'll take the warranty for the engine and tranny cause they will stay stock.
 

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Well lets face it..regearing the axles, lift and 35"+ tires won't be covered under warranty no matter which direction. I'll take the warranty for the engine and tranny cause they will stay stock.

A guy in our club recently got a sales job at my Dealer, he said they have amendment to the Warranty, they honor a 2" lift & 33's. I guess all these Dealers have their own way of handling warranty. I know when I had the ABS Brake problem DC wanted to know how big of a tire I was running, they wanted to stick me.
 

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im sure you heard that mopar will be releasing a long arm kit (Rebadged RE)

they also said the will warranty JK's with 35's

anyhow, you certainly listed a good build up, but dont forget to upgrade the axleshafts, as the ones in the Rubi are bigger

also, i dont know if you counted in install and downtime into the project as well
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im sure you heard that mopar will be releasing a long arm kit (Rebadged RE)

they also said the will warranty JK's with 35's

anyhow, you certainly listed a good build up, but dont forget to upgrade the axleshafts, as the ones in the Rubi are bigger

also, i dont know if you counted in install and downtime into the project as well
I'll be running F/R rubi axle with chromo shafts and 5.13s. I have a spare set of 35s I could throw on for warranty work.
 

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Isn't the non Rubi 44 only 30 spline?
Yep,.........

Jeep JK Wrangler Axles:

Front (X and Sahara)
High Pinion 27 Spline Dana 30
Rear (X and Sahara)
Standard Cut 30 Spline Dana 44
Standard Cut 27 Spline Dana 35 (2 Door without towing package)
Front (Rubicon)
High Pinion 32 Spline Dana 44
Electric locker (open when switched off)
Rear (Rubicon)
Low Pinion 32 Spline Dana 44
Electic locker (open when switched off)
 

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Yep,.........

Jeep JK Wrangler Axles:

Front (X and Sahara)
High Pinion 27 Spline Dana 30
Rear (X and Sahara)
Standard Cut 30 Spline Dana 44
Standard Cut 27 Spline Dana 35 (2 Door without towing package)
Front (Rubicon)
High Pinion 32 Spline Dana 44
Electric locker (open when switched off)
Rear (Rubicon)
Low Pinion 32 Spline Dana 44
Electic locker (open when switched off)
Don't forget that both the Rubi 44 fronts, and the 30 model fronts share the same small diameter 32 spline stub shaft outers. And I'm still waiting for someone to pull a rear shaft out of a X model with the rear locker. It just doesn't seem cost effective for Jeep to produce two different locking differentials. It would make more sense, and cents, if they just upgraded the whole rear Diff to Rubi specs. Instead of having to build another machine to build the low production numbers of a X locker.
 

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Remember that if you buy the Rubi, you are spending a lot more money and then replacing a lot of parts anyway. 4 inches or more will require drive shaft mods either way and then add gears, chromoly axles, a lift, etc etc....

The only huge advantage with the Rubi if you are going to change a tone of parts anyway) is the 4.1transfer case, which I wish I had.

The D30 front in the X is good and I have a D44 in the rear, and with a $350 aussie locker in the front and the stock limited slip and traction control in the rear I have gone places I would not have thought possible with guys that are embarrassed that i could follow them.

If you are after a great rig for low dollars, go with the X and upgrade. If you want the best of the best then go with the Rubi. I will bet a paycheck that my X will go anywhere any Rubi will go and hold up doing it.

Its all a matter of your priorities and what you are willing to compromise on and how much you want to spend.

Let's face it, these things are never ending projects anyway, so how much you spend is only important if you don't have much to spend.

This debate goes on in every forum, and on and on....
 
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