Looking over Clayton's LA kit on another part of the forum. Looks interesting but I remember there's some criticism of radius arm front suspension designs like this, RE's, etc. Can anyone explain the issues?
It's just a poor design. There is inherent binding anytime the axle articulates, so the bushings tend to wear out pretty quickly.Looking over Clayton's LA kit on another part of the forum. Looks interesting but I remember there's some criticism of radius arm front suspension designs like this, RE's, etc. Can anyone explain the issues?
The binding in the radius arm is mostly within that top axle side mount.What about these LCA's from Rusty's Offroad.
I haven't heard of anybody running these (for good reason?). The frame joint looks pretty flexy and would overcome binding. Thoughts?
Edit: I found this thread about them.
My only experience is helping put three sets of bushings in an RE front radius arm kit within six months, same JKU owner had the same problem with his TJ's Nth degree kit. Another TJ on 42s with one-tons a friend of mine bought with an RE radius kit, same thing. They all flexed well, but the two TJs and a JKU I delt with did not seem to hold up well. All were front axle bushings.yeah stay away.... the the radius arm doenst work at all.....
On a JK you dont have enough room to get the front end to bind... I run Raduis arms and have zeros issues with flex/travel. The Bushing issue that was mentiones is in the rear for the RE kit so that isnt even a valid arugement. Also if you fell like the upper bushing on the axle side is binding they make a Jhonny joint replacement kit so that joint will flex as well. Its awesome to see guys toss shit out that have no experiance with this particular application...
You have right. The radius arm itself is designed to be a ridged assy.ok, stupid question, what exactly is control arm binding? Is it the point where the joint can no longer articulate? Or do I have that wrong?
What I have seen is the upper axle mount front control arm bushing go. Basically the bolt would completely max out within the mount. If you call how a bolt goes through a normal control arm mount 0 degrees, along an X-axis, the bolt under "bind" would pretty much be at a 45* angle. The bushing is what would have to take that and eventually fail.ok, stupid question, what exactly is control arm binding? Is it the point where the joint can no longer articulate? Or do I have that wrong?
FWIW, I ran the Iron Rock Radius LA kit on both my WJ and my XJ. My XJ flexed like hell with that kit and rode great. It had johnny joints at the frame side. It was very easy to adjust the caster and I never noticed any binding. There is no upper link on the passenger side with this kit.Iron Rock Off Road has a radius arm kit for the xj and zj that removes the radius arm on the pass side. That would get rid of the bind issues.
Here is a link to one of there kits.
Think this is a bad Idea to do this to a JK?
I'm working on the 3 link in the rear right now. And it's close to being done. Got my homemade brackets welded on this morning. Next I was planing on doing the radius arms up front. Mainly because it would be easier for me not to make the upper mounts for the long arms. And cut the exhaust.
I have looked at many pics online at the RE long arm kits on the JK and they seem to flex pretty darn good. I don't mind changing two bushings ever now again if I had too. Then again why not add flex joints on all ends. Why do they not do that? Cause of drivetrain vibes. Someone please school me on this.