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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What do I need to run 37'' tires comfortable and efficiently on a 2 door 2010 JK Sport with D44 rear and D30 Front?
I'm currently running 35's with a 3.5 SJ Lift. I'm upgrading my lift to ether a RK or Clayton, still on the fence to which one.
1. What size lift should I run that will fit the tire size and still give me flex on the trail?
2. Drive Shafts? Front? Rear? or Both?
3. Trimming? Cutting?
4. What do I absolutely need for strengthening to handle the heavier tires?
5. I currently have stock 3.73 R&P but already purchased 5.13's for the rear so that's the route I'm going.
6. Planning on axle gussets

I'm not trying to brake the bank of course so I'm looking for answers that will get me "safely" running 37's but it doesn't have to be bomb proof.
 

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First thing you need to address is gears ...you'll need 5.13s for the front as well.

2.5 or better lift ...trimming will be necessary for either, more for the 2.5.

Driveshafts eventually, but not necessary now.

You should be fine, but sleeves, chromoly shafts, and gussets are good insurance.
 

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What do I need to run 37'' tires comfortable and efficiently on a 2 door 2010 JK Sport with D44 rear and D30 Front?
I'm currently running 35's with a 3.5 SJ Lift. I'm upgrading my lift to ether a RK or Clayton, still on the fence to which one.
1. What size lift should I run that will fit the tire size and still give me flex on the trail?
You're probably gonna want at least the 3.5" your on. Chances are the RK (or even Clayton) lift is gonna give you more lift than the CrapJacker.

2. Drive Shafts? Front? Rear? or Both?
Are they both stock now? I'm sure you're gonna want a rear after you get a decent amount of lift on it. Maybe front, too...

3. Trimming? Cutting?
You can skip alot of the cutting if you go with some good flat fenders or you can cut your stock fenders and some body...

4. What do I absolutely need for strengthening to handle the heavier tires?
You could probably sleeve & gusset the 30 to handle them, but I'd recommend a 44 up there for peace of mind. If you're sure you're not going above 37, then get a PR44 or TeraFlex 44.

5. I currently have stock 3.73 R&P but already purchased 5.13's for the rear so that's the route I'm going.
5.13's should be alright for the 37's, but with an auto you're gonna wish you'd have gotten 5.38's.

6. Planning on axle gussets

I'm not trying to brake the bank of course so I'm looking for answers that will get me "safely" running 37's but it doesn't have to be bomb proof.
"Safe" as in not gonna break driving down the road and "safe" as in not gonna break on the trail are two different animals. Good luck with not breaking a 30 on the trail with 37's. Not saying it can't be done, but I'd say you're likely to break something sooner rather than later.
 

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RK 3.5 X suspension lift, bump stop properly and trim your fenders will get you rolling and flexing; however...

You got other weak links like the D30, oem steering components et al...

do a little google search and you'll find a shit ton of information, and arguments, as to what you should or shouldn't upgrade to run 37's.

:koolaid:

edit: other good comments posted at the same time I did.
 

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You don't need 37's :thefinger:

3-3.5"s is plenty if you want flat fenders.

wen they start making noise or break replace them. My rear broke first at 3"s

just a little cutting of the wheel well

sleeves/gussets/control arm skids/chromoly axles

do lockers while your in there. You will go much farther locked on 35's then open on 37's.

With 37's your going to want to play with the bigger boys and stuff is going to break. I get bored with anything under blacks on 35's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a manual trans. so 5.13's should get me there.

I was looking at the RK 3.5 Max Flex set up with new shocks. and the Clayton 3.5'' premium with upper and lower control arms and new shocks.

@Spedly- if you didn't figure out from the jeep description its JKGray from DeJa, what up? I keep on jumping to the idea that I want to run 37's so I figured I would throw this out there to see what was involved. But from your your response it seems like ether way I should upgrade all the same stuff if I stayed on 35's. I fine staying on 35's because I know my level of wheeling but I can't deny that 37's looks pretty bad ass under the jeep. I know thats a tool thing to say but....so be it. haha

My definition of safe is a happy middle ground of it being a DD and occasional trips to the trail.
 

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Hell, that's where I'm at now. I DD mine on 41's... :D

Have fun, man. 35's, 37's, D30, D60, D80, flat fenders, no fenders... whatever. Just get out and have fun.

Now, I need to heed my own advice! I haven't wheeled for a year and a half! I'm itchin' for it. Can't wait to try out my new setup.
 

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2.5" lift
1" front and 2" rear extended bumpstops
1" body lift
5.13 or 5.38 gears
Stubby front bumper
Aftermarket rear tire carrier
Front axle sleeves and gussets
Flat flares


Stock driveshafts are fine, but you'll eventually want chromoly axle shafts if you wheel hard.


The build, including pictures is linked below in my signature.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If you think you will want to keep wheeling the same stuff you do now you can probably get away with the d30 and 37's. If you want to wheel with the rest of the guys on 37's Ian,Billy,ect.. the 30 isn't going to cut it.
 

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I just threw some 37's on my 2dr yesterday. My setup is as follows...

RK 3.5 x-factor with 2.5" coils (have all 8 arms, front/rear adjustable trackbar)
Ace Flat Fenders
5.13 G2 gears
Poly Tie Rod and Draglink Flip
Tatton front and rear driveshafts
teraflex bump stops
Evo sleeve and gusset
Rockhard stubby front bumper
some trimming of rear wheel wells
and a bunch of other crap on my rig that has nothing to do with fitting 37's.

I do plan on adding chromoly axle shafts in the near future though...

 

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some of the advice upstairs is just bullshit.

you want more quality and more efficiency but those just don't go together.

2.5" lift
1" front and 2" rear extended bumpstops
1" body lift
5.13 or 5.38 gears
Stubby front bumper
Aftermarket rear tire carrier
Front axle sleeves and gussets
Flat flares


Stock driveshafts are fine, but you'll eventually want chromoly axle shafts if you wheel hard.


The build, including pictures is linked below in my signature.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
if there was one guy i had to choose wisdom and knowledge from, it would be planman.

so take what planman has said and run with it.
 
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