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Which driveshaft would you choose?

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Discussion Starter #1
My JK currently rides on a 3" FT Ultimate lift, a 1" M.O.R.E. body lift, and 37" BFG's amongst other things. I am about to purchase gears, driveshafts, and upgraded axle shafts.

My question pertains to driveshafts. I currently am running the stock shaft and have a set of stock spare shafts as well (bought pair for $60). I was considering going with the 1350s with replacement flanges, but this last weekend after watching a friend pretzel his shaft on a ledge, I am reconsidering purchasing the 1310's and keeping the factory flanges knowing I will have 2 sets of spares.

Which would you do?
 

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I got the 1310 OE from Trail Duty after I chewed up my OEM shaft on my first run (Hit the transmission casing and cut the boot in half). I didn't want to mess with pinion bearing torques, etc., and also wanted the option of an easily swappable DS... you know, just in case. ;)
 

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Yeah a 1310 shaft should be fine as long as you drive smart especially with 37's.
 

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I went with 1310's front and rear from Tom Woods. His shafts replace the flanges at the diff and tranfer case. Check his site out he explains why he does this........ 4xshaft.com
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got the 1310 OE from Trail Duty after I chewed up my OEM shaft on my first run (Hit the transmission casing and cut the boot in half). I didn't want to mess with pinion bearing torques, etc., and also wanted the option of an easily swappable DS... you know, just in case. ;)
I tore the boot off my stock shaft last August. You think that is a problem? :D
 

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I like my 1310's and here is my reasoning for running them.

What do you want as you weakest link? Ring and pinion, axle shafts or the carrier????? I have friends that wheel their TJ's and YJ's allot harder than my JK will see and have yet to see them break a (1310) drive shaft with 37's. Yea, you can argue that the JK especially the unlimited is heavier then the two.

It is easier to change out or remove a drive shaft to get off the trail, then to deal with any of the others.

Everyone has there own reasons for what the choose but this is my take on the subject.
 

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X2.
 

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I did 1310 front and 1350 rear. It will save you a few bucks and give the added strength were needed. If you plan to change your flanges, which is a good idea, make sure you torque the pinion nuts down appropriately and not too tight, as to destroy the crush sleeve.
 

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I went with 1310's front and rear from Tom Woods. His shafts replace the flanges at the diff and tranfer case. Check his site out he explains why he does this........ 4xshaft.com
I approve this message.
 

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I went with a 1310 Tom Woods up front with new flanges...not one of you survey choices. I split the CV boot after about 1000 miles with a 3inch lift running 35's.
I'm happy with my Woody.
 
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