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Discussion Starter #1
I just wanted to say that whoever is responsible for the design on the JK that has the exhaust crossover covering the 4 rear bolts on the transmission pan is a certified moron. If someone were to walk up to me today and say "I designed the exhaust system on the JK." I would clock him straight in the teeth with every bit of force I could muster. :flipoff:

This has to seriously be one of the stupidest design ideas ever. WHY WOULD YOU DO THIS ON SOMETHING THAT HAS TO BE REGULARLY CHANGED? Needless to say I am pissed...I just spent the last 2 hours working on getting my tranny pan off to change the oil and filter because I can't afford the $100+ in labor that places around here want for the job. Even if I have the oil and filter ready to go they still want a 100 bucks. Well now I know why. :nono:

The worst thing about it is now I am going to have to pay someone to take that damned exhaust out so they can reach the bolts because on of them snapped off! :suicide:

/rant
 

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After you've done it a couple of times, it's not too bad. Two bolts on each of the exhaust pipes (make sure you soak them down with PB Blaster first), and seven bolts on the cross member. Remember to get a jack up under the transfer case first. You don't really need to remove the crossmember to get to those bolts, but you probably will now to get the broken one out.
 

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When I did mine I didn't have a major problem snaking it out. You can get it without removing the exhaust.
 

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Taking them out with a u-joint socket, or a flex-ratcheting box end wrench can be done. Getting them back in may me difficult.

This is what I reinstalled my pan with. It eliminates the need to get a straight shot at the bolts over the exhaust pipe during removal and installation.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh jeez...that is an awesome idea! Can you tell me what part number those bolts are? I assume you used washers with them as well?

If I can get the pan off I can probably get the bolt off as well...luckily the bolt busted in such a way that it is not causing a leak...half of the bolt head is actually still on there holding the pain in place. It was clearly a defective bolt...

I apologize for my rage in my original post...as you can possibly imagine I was pretty pissed when I typed that up.
 

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i think those are m6 bolts, you can get them at HD or Lowes. The ball tipped allens can be picked up at Harbor Freight pretty cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Brake noise...how much time left?

A little tight on money right now but 2 weeks from now I plan to change brakes all around on my JK. About 2 weeks ago I started hearing the "tell" (whatever it is called) sound from my driver side rear brake so I know it is getting low and needs changing. It is my daily driver and I do about 120 miles a day. Unfortunately right now I just don't have the spare cash even though it is only 60 bucks for all 4 pads. Any idea roughly how much time I have on them? Does the tell start making noise at a certain mm of the pad that is left?
 

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yup i hate this about the jk. if i remember right it it looks like they could have pushed the exhaust back about 2 inches and it would be enough to get to the bolts out. but the exhaust wont move at all without taking the bolts out. im glad my inner fenders are cut down and it made it nice and easy to get to.
 

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1/4" drive universal joint saved the day for me. It was still a tight squeeze but I was even able to torque the bolts when I reinstalled it.




Next time I'll try inbolting the transmission mount and see if it will lift a little. In my mind this still seems easier than removing the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Taking them out with a u-joint socket, or a flex-ratcheting box end wrench can be done. Getting them back in may me difficult.

This is what I reinstalled my pan with. It eliminates the need to get a straight shot at the bolts over the exhaust pipe during removal and installation.



So I found the ball tipped hex tools but I am having a nightmare of a time with the bolts. I found plenty of M6 bolts all over but I don't know if the metal they are made out of matters, (will stainless work or black oxide) and I am not sure on the length. Apparently you can get about 100 of these for $20 bucks so cost won't be a problem but I would feel a lot better if I had some input from you guys to narrow down exactly what I need from the bolts.

Also...anybody got any recommendations on replacement gaskets for the trans and diffs? I know there are some really good ones out there that are re-useable.
 

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So I found the ball tipped hex tools but I am having a nightmare of a time with the bolts. I found plenty of M6 bolts all over but I don't know if the metal they are made out of matters, (will stainless work or black oxide) and I am not sure on the length. Apparently you can get about 100 of these for $20 bucks so cost won't be a problem but I would feel a lot better if I had some input from you guys to narrow down exactly what I need from the bolts.

Also...anybody got any recommendations on replacement gaskets for the trans and diffs? I know there are some really good ones out there that are re-useable.
This is the size that goes in there from the factory: M6x1.00x14
A thin steel washer under the head may be a good idea.
I bought them from Lowe's. If you find some that are a little longer, check the hole depth with a toothpick, or piece of wire, to make sure the bolt won't bottom out.
 

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This is the size that goes in there from the factory: M6x1.00x14
This thread helped me so if anyone in future needs to know, my wife's 2011 Wrangler Sport uses M8 1.25 14. Also, I got the buried bolts out with the swivel drive but couldn't start them at the end so I removed the fender and unbolted the exhaust. Gave me almost no more room but enough to get straight on.
 
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