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Discussion Starter #1
Swapping out stock front DS for a 1310. The factory flange nut does not fit into the 1310 transfer case yoke. It's very close but no way will it fit. Anyone else run into this? Jeep is 17 JKUR auto.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's a Tom Woods 1310 that I bought used a replaced the u joints. The nut won't fit into the yoke at all. It''s barely too big but just won't fit. I'll try to get a pic. Thanks
 

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both of my Wood's 1310 frnt rear , came w/ two replacement nuts for the yoke. They are not the same size as the stock was & - not sure if important or not but one was billeted and the other was just high strength, milled replacement you could use with the yoke or in my case the stock flat flange the shaft mates to. That , iirc, is why Therese two replacements included; one is forr the yoke and one is for those that get the OEM replacement flange ...

If you go to wood's site, this info is there I am pretty sure.

They will respond to you about their products if you email them . It may take a few days but shoot an email if you cant locate it on the webpage.

you won't be able to use that nut & thry'll probably sell you one.

still, post us links to photos,dude.


 

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Unfortunately you posting a link to a none existent picture as @4wheels4life has stated. And since you're stating it's a picture of the stock nut, it was already stated by @j3ff3ry_j33p that it won't work. It was also stated by j3ff3ry_j33p you'll need to contact Tom Woods for the proper nuts of your setup.

Good luck... :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Got a response from tom wood's ds. Was told that the DS I have is a few years old and that design had a t-case yoke that used a smaller nut. That design was updated to a t-case yoke with a larger opening that can reuse the stock nut. Going to speak with them on Monday to get it sorted. Thanks for the insight and I'll try again with pics another time.


Does this work? https://i.imgur.com/n7PI6nd.jpg
 

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Got a response from tom wood's ds. Was told that the DS I have is a few years old and that design had a t-case yoke that used a smaller nut. That design was updated to a t-case yoke with a larger opening that can reuse the stock nut. Going to speak with them on Monday to get it sorted. Thanks for the insight and I'll try again with pics another time.


Does this work? https://i.imgur.com/n7PI6nd.jpg

yes.Now, copy that whole URL . see how it ends with the filetype jpg? that link is what you put in when you choose the little "add image" icon in the toolbar. Direct link to the hosted image. . It's how you have images displayed in your comments, like this :



glad Tom Woods is helping you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That did occur to me while staring it down. Thought about putting it in a vise and using a dremel as it's easier to control. Wouldn't need to remove much at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks again for the help. I got good info from calling tom wood's. The DS I bought is a few years old and I needed a few things. I replaced the u joints with spicer sealed and the centering yoke. I got a new T case nut from Tom Woods. Was told that there are 2 different nuts used on the T-case output flange, some SAE and some metric. They sent me both. I needed a new flange on the end of the driveshaft with the correct size pilot to fit into pinion flange. This prevented having to replace pinion flange on axle side. I should have bought a new driveshaft straight from wood's but oh well, live and learn.

I got around to finishing the rest of the suspension, brakes and steering. I'll upload some pics when I have a chance.
 
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