JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,194 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trail Duty have free shipping, no packaging fee, on all Tom Wood's Drive Shafts:

Tom Wood's JK Drive Shafts

All Tom Wood's shafts are custom made and usually ship within 24-48 hours.

Edit: JKO Members get either $15 off or the polished finish for free. Just put that you are JKO member in the comments field and we'll take care of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
Trail Duty have free shipping, no packaging fee, on all Tom Wood's Drive Shafts:

Tom Wood's JK Drive Shafts

All Tom Wood's shafts are custom made and usually ship within 24-48 hours.
whats the lead time on these

So on the site it doesn't explain the difference between 1310 and 1350's

Any info? Are the joints CTM, are they all greasable? Do they use standard nipple grease fittings or the recessed ones? Not sure if that is the right term for it.. On the recessed grease fittings, do you use a needle adapter to fill them?

Thank you. :beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,498 Posts
So on the site it doesn't explain the difference between 1310 and 1350's

Any info? Are the joints CTM, are they all greasable? Do they use standard nipple grease fittings or the recessed ones? Not sure if that is the right term for it.. On the recessed grease fittings, do you use a needle adapter to fill them?

Thank you. :beer:
The 1310's have the zerk on the cap. It makes lubing enjoyable. The 1350's have the standard setup with the fittings in the crotch. The u-joints aren't CTM, but what he calls Gold Seal. They have a great warranty, it covers the shaft as well as the joint. When I talked to him, he talked me out of the 1350's saying they were way overkill for 35's. Phil, where were you last November when I bought mine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
The 1310's have the zerk on the cap. It makes lubing enjoyable. The 1350's have the standard setup with the fittings in the crotch. The u-joints aren't CTM, but what he calls Gold Seal. They have a great warranty, it covers the shaft as well as the joint. When I talked to him, he talked me out of the 1350's saying they were way overkill for 35's. Phil, where were you last November when I bought mine?
Thanks for the info... So I am running 37's with possible intentions on 38's and if/ when I destroy my axles I will go with D-60's
So the 1350 might be the better choice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,194 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ideally needs to be measured, as there can be can quite a bit of difference even with the same lift kit.

Measuring takes just a few seconds, literally.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,194 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So the 1350 might be the better choice?
1350 will be stronger no doubt, but a 1310 is plenty strong enough for most applications and having the UJ as the weakest link in the drive line is not necessarily a bad thing.

You will get more flex out of a 1310 before they bind than with a 1350. A 1350 is 37.5% stronger than a 1310.

If you drive hard, spin wheels, etc, then a 1350 may be a better choice, otherwise a 1310 will do the job just fine and swapping in a UJ in the field is much better than swapping gears.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,216 Posts
oh and quick question. You know how at the pinion you need to measure what the nut was set at before removing it so you can set it the same, do you have to do anything special with the TC end? I see the Torques on the TC nut is 90-130 ft. lbs. Just wondering why it is such a wide range.

Thanks
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top