JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I ordered the Poly High Steer Kit and subsequently learned that if I flip the Drag link and raise the track bar 3" (with the provided track bar mounting bracket), I must use 3" bumpstops (as opposed to my current 2" bumpstops).

SO, I'm now pondering if I want to lose 1" of up-travel, in exchange for improved steering. It seems like a pretty fair trade - better performance 95% of the time (it's my daily driver), in exchange for less flex/up-travel. I have early onset Death Wobble (just a little baby Death Wobble) and I believe the high-steer kit will help eliminate it. From what I have read/heard, the high-steer kit will also greatly help on-road performance (steering and cornering) in general, so I think it's probably worth it, in my case.

I can't say that I fully flex my Jeep regularly, but it does happen!

Just looking for opinions, feedback, thoughts, advice, etc..

Does anyone know where I could get cheap lower bumpstops? Also, (non-related question) - does anyone make a replacement upper bump-pads? Mine have turned to that dingy brown color - would love to swap them out with something that looks better!

~JG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,809 Posts
Im running a flip kit with two inches of bump stop. It's not the poly kit, it's a jks/teraflex combo. I haven't noticed any problems at this point. As far as the lower bump stop pads, I believe RK has some stackable aluminum ones available. And the front uppers, I have yet to see and aftermarket oem solution. Jks does make their acos which an adjustable coil spring/bump stop spacer.

Vick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
I just put a hi-steer kit on and I'm regretting it (4.5" lift) Jeep drove better before. I'd verify that all other DW causes have been thought of first. At 3" lift a hi-steer is on the edge of unnecessary.

As jeepers we pay lots if money for every inch of flex. I wouldn't want to sacrifice any of that.

Rock Krawler has stackable bump stops (lowers) that go as low as 1".

Daystar might have replacement upper foam. Not completely sure. Or you can go big and get ACOS adjustable uppers but that's bigger money but solves both the spacer and brown foam problem.


Edit: Vick beat me to it.....what he said
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Im running a flip kit with two inches of bump stop. It's not the poly kit, it's a jks/teraflex combo. I haven't noticed any problems at this point. As far as the lower bump stop pads, I believe RK has some stackable aluminum ones available. And the front uppers, I have yet to see and aftermarket oem solution. Jks does make their acos which an adjustable coil spring/bump stop spacer.

Vick
I'm curious - does your kit have a trackbar bracket, to raise the mounting point of the trackbar? Or did you just leave the trackbar alone and only flip the drag link?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just put a hi-steer kit on and I'm regretting it (4.5" lift) Jeep drove better before. I'd verify that all other DW causes have been thought of first. At 3" lift a hi-steer is on the edge of unnecessary.

As jeepers we pay lots if money for every inch of flex. I wouldn't want to sacrifice any of that.

Rock Krawler has stackable bump stops (lowers) that go as low as 1".

Daystar might have replacement upper foam. Not completely sure. Or you can go big and get ACOS adjustable uppers but that's bigger money but solves both the spacer and brown foam problem.


Edit: Vick beat me to it.....what he said
Good info, thanks! Yeah, I'm thinking I might just mount the drag link "standard" and forget flipping it...

I also have some TeraFlex front LCA's on order - will put those on and dial in my caster (that might help with my baby wobble)..
 

·
Research, bro!
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
I
Does anyone know where I could get cheap lower bumpstops?
I'm going to be taking out my TF upper (extension) and lower bumpstop to increase/maximize my upwards travel. The math on mine has me replacing my lower bumpstop with a 3". The lowest priced one I've found is from Clayton at $42. Then poly at $85.

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/15_26/products_id/46

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Poly-Performance-Jeep-JK-Front-Bump-Stop-Spacer-Kit-p-16411.html

Like RK, JKS also has adjustable ones if you think you're going to do future tinkering.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm going to be taking out my TF upper (extension) and lower bumpstop to increase/maximize my upwards travel. The math on mine has me replacing my lower bumpstop with a 3". The lowest priced one I've found is from Clayton at $42. Then poly at $85.

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/15_26/products_id/46

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Poly-Performance-Jeep-JK-Front-Bump-Stop-Spacer-Kit-p-16411.html

Like RK, JKS also has adjustable ones if you think you're going to do future tinkering.
Mark, just to verify - so then your top will be back to "stock" and the bottom will be a 3" spacer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,809 Posts
I'm curious - does your kit have a trackbar bracket, to raise the mounting point of the trackbar? Or did you just leave the trackbar alone and only flip the drag link?
I'm running the TB bracket on the axle side and the teraflex drag link. You have to run them both, not just one. I was running 6 inch springs for awhile that was my main reason for the kit. With a 3 inch I don't think is mandatory.
 

·
Research, bro!
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
Mark, just to verify - so then your top will be back to "stock" and the bottom will be a 3" spacer?
Correct, I'll just run the OEM upper and a 3" bottom. My upper TF extension is 2.75", lower 2.5". At full compression and assuming OEM upper compresses to 0". I still have have 2.625" of shock shaft showing. Removing that upper and increasing the lower to 3" will give me 2.25" extra up travel and prevent the shocks from bottoming out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
How far are you from rubbing up front at full stuff? I don't think I personally have seen you fully flex out before. But if you are on the verge of rubbing/do rub, then the 1" change in up travel may not be an issue at all.

How much total lift do you have? And have you checked your caster angle? I have gotten death wobble twice, and been able to fix it both times.

The first time it got so bad I could not hold on to the steering wheel and had to come to a complete stop. I tracked this down to bad caster angle caused by 3" of lift with no control arms. Put on TF lower control arms, set them to what TF suggest, and it was fine.

But then this past october (after the Niagara Rim run actually) I started to get it again, right at 50mph. Tracked this down to my front passenger side tire being out of balance. Had it rebalanced and I have been fine since.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How far are you from rubbing up front at full stuff? I don't think I personally have seen you fully flex out before. But if you are on the verge of rubbing/do rub, then the 1" change in up travel may not be an issue at all.

How much total lift do you have? And have you checked your caster angle? I have gotten death wobble twice, and been able to fix it both times.

The first time it got so bad I could not hold on to the steering wheel and had to come to a complete stop. I tracked this down to bad caster angle caused by 3" of lift with no control arms. Put on TF lower control arms, set them to what TF suggest, and it was fine.

But then this past october (after the Niagara Rim run actually) I started to get it again, right at 50mph. Tracked this down to my front passenger side tire being out of balance. Had it rebalanced and I have been fine since.
Well, first off - no - you haven't seen me even come close to max flex. Niagra Rim didn't really test or max anything, except perhaps my ABS (and my sphincter strength) on "Hard Brake Hill".. On the Rubicon I flexed out to the max at least 10 or so different times.. Like I said, it's a pretty rare occurrence - in terms of the amount of time I would benefit from better steering/handling on-road..

With that said, when I do max out, my tire makes light contact with the upper fender guts - so perhaps the 3" bump stop wouldn't be too bad.. Honestly, I'm not sure - it has been mentioned that I may already be limited (by shock length, etc.) and the 3" bumpstop might not even limit me. In other words, perhaps when I was stuffing it on the Rubicon and rubbing slightly, I might still do that with the 3" bump stop. I'm guessing not, though..

Total lift is about 4"-4.5".. I just got my wheels balanced and it helped quite a bit, but the baby wobble is still there (to a lesser degree). Caster is at 4° down (will be adjusting that shortly - after I install the TF front LCA's). I imagine this will help quite a bit as well (after dialing in the caster).

I have read about issues with drilling the knuckle improperly causing the same issue.. Given that I don't really have a proper (powerful) drill, I think I will install the drag link in the standard config (unflipped), add the LCA's, dial everything in and see how it feels.

So far, I've heard and read about more issues after flipping the drag link, than I have heard it helping anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Well, first off - no - you haven't seen me even come close to max flex. Niagra Rim didn't really test or max anything, except perhaps my ABS (and my sphincter strength) on "Hard Brake Hill".. On the Rubicon I flexed out to the max at least 10 or so different times.. Like I said, it's a pretty rare occurrence - in terms of the amount of time I would benefit from better steering/handling on-road..
Oh I didn't mean to say you never max out your suspension. I just meant I havent seen it, so I didn't know how much up travel you had :)

Oh, and one thing of note. 1" at the bump stop will translate to more at the wheel. Since the bump stops are inbord of the tire. I would have to do the math, but roughly it would be more like 1.75" or so at the wheel.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh I didn't mean to say you never max out your suspension. I just meant I havent seen it, so I didn't know how much up travel you had :)

Oh, and one thing of note. 1" at the bump stop will translate to more at the wheel. Since the bump stops are inbord of the tire. I would have to do the math, but roughly it would be more like 1.75" or so at the wheel.
NP :) - I only meant it in the sense we only wheeled that one time and Niagra was more of a traction-fest, than a flex-fest (and we didn't visit that one rock quarry area at the very end).. I really want to do it again when it's dry and sunny!

Oh man.. I REALLY don't want to lose 1.75" at the wheel! Alas, never-ending trade-offs... :bawling: It's all good. I'll take it in steps... I already needed a drag link so I think I will throw that on to start (unflipped). I also need a tie rod (mine has "taco") so I think I'll see if PP will let me ship back the track bar relo bracket and order a tie rod instead (I'm hoping their tie rod will work with Moog TRE's).. I think that if it doesn't improve after all that, I might look into replacing the knuckles (Reid is the only brand I've heard of, so far), flipping the drag link, track bar relo, etc.. :bounce:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
NP :) - I only meant it in the sense we only wheeled that one time and Niagra was more of a traction-fest, than a flex-fest (and we didn't visit that one rock quarry area at the very end).. I really want to do it again when it's dry and sunny!
Yeah, its a lot nicer in the summer when you aren't wet and cold.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got the Poly Pro (Synergy Suspension) drag link installed this weekend. After a front tire balance and the new drag link, my mini-wobble is gone.. Woohoo! The drag link was great - adjustment was a breeze. I think it took about 2 minutes to dial my steering back in..


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,068 Posts
I am running the Poly flip kit and trackbar relocation on my TF 2.5" coil lift. No issues, its close, but it will bottom out on the bump stops befor hitting the frame. I think you will be fine with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,628 Posts
I'm running the poly flip kit with track bar relocation bracket and Reid knuckles. Cured my DW but now I can solve the damn wandering issue, which I never had previously. I've tried everything from caster, toe, length of Control arms and still pissing me off. I've just given up and live with the bs. Problem is I dare not let my wife drive the jeep in fear of an accident.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm running the poly flip kit with track bar relocation bracket and Reid knuckles. Cured my DW but now I can solve the damn wandering issue, which I never had previously. I've tried everything from caster, toe, length of Control arms and still pissing me off. I've just given up and live with the bs. Problem is I dare not let my wife drive the jeep in fear of an accident.
Yikes! I was thinking of going to that same setup.. Hadn't heard of that issue yet.. Curious to hear what it turns out to be!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
I'm thinking of running the poly kit as well..I'll be right around 3.75-4 lift and arms and I think this will tie it all together I also ordered a pair of Adjustable shocks to dial in the ride once it"s all tracking right
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top