You are like a mind reader. I am going to schedule a whole week (paid
) off. That gives me about 9 days, if needed. I plan to get a rental or borrow during the down time. I also live walking distance to bus stops and have a bus pass. If I seriously go over time it won't be the end of the world. I am not fast when I am hacking away at something for the first time so I know it will probably take all of it. :gluging:
That looks like a plan to succeed and have fun doing it: "No pressure, just go play in the garage". :bounce:
The plan for the stretch:
-8" Synergy stretch, which includes new arms, frame side control arm brackets, and a frame side track bar bracket. Stock bumpstops will be moved back 8."
I dig it! Thanks for writing it up, too. I dig the RK stuff, but Poly / Synergy has a killer approach that's at least as good.
I'm NOT trying to say one or other is better.
I've been pissed for a while that they never took any good pictures for their web site, or bothered to finish off the corners and offer a complete solution.
Seriously, a Polaroid of the rig hacked together on the lift, and another Polaroid of it in the same state at testing? Just enough info. to sell it on Pirate?
Note to Synergy: take this kit out of the witness protection program, and you might sell the shit out of it
-Coilover Towers will be set inboard on the frame and connected with DOM. The placement is the only thing that is really undecided. I might do some chopping to the cross member and mount direct above the axle. I might not. I bought the synergy lower control arm skids with shock mounts, so I do have an alternative shock mounting location. The rear track bar bracket looks like it will determine the shock placement.
Good point - this is gosp'l trufe. I forgot to mention that. Glad you're thinking through everything. I love checkers, but this is a chess game.
I have less than 1/4" of shock body clearance at the closest point during travel, and some of that might have been luck - my blood went cold when I realized mid-build that I hadn't thought of something.
Either way they are going through the floor. I will probably gets some sheet metal and box around them so that the floor is still water tight and seal out the exhaust.
Consider taking the time to make mating flanges so this a bolt-off deal, seal it with stick-on weatherstrip foam. As a former mechanic, I love making shit accessible.
-14" 2.0 remote resi King Coilovers - mount resevoirs to DOM cross member
-4 door e-brake cables
-Hard brake line relocation (maybe - I already replaced both stock rears and mounted them differently because my sway bar links didn't clear properly - they might work as is)
-Lengthen ABS wires, breather hose, locker wires,
-Either ditch the sway bar or it looks like it could be moved back on the frame. The only problem is that the frame is in a lower position. looks doable
OPTION: There is a Currie Antirock setup for the back on stretched rigs that goes across the top of the frame.
You're not using the Synergy rear coilover mount bar, but look at where it mounts - that's the spot.
I have the axle side of my track bar raised 2" more than rig is lifted, and I'm in no hurry to get the sway bar back in. Suggest getting axle side of TB as high as bump stops will allow.
-New driveshaft
-Cut off factory exhaust before axle and mount inline muffler and run straight back
-Limit Straps
-Trim sheet metal to allow for full stuff. I am going to try and retain as much of the corner as possible. I do not want to compcut. I will most likely run a modified stock fender flare until Poison Spyder releases their new custom corners.
I might just run like this for a while (forum member Miraz)
-and on the maybe, but really don't wanna do list - removable mudflaps
Did I miss anything?
This is going to be sweet!
