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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Title pretty much sums it up. I can't seem to tweak my exhaust enough to get it to stop rattling against the EVO skids. Anyone have a suggestion on how I can resolve it? With all the angles on the skid I'm not sure washers between skid and frame will help much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It contacts on the passenger side at the crossover tube bend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So you're saying the aFe crossover tube won't fit with the ProTec either?

What driveshaft did you go with? Does it contact the exhaust at any point without the spacers?
 

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Hmm, I'm wondering if you could source a tighter engine mount? Polyeurothane or something, it isn't the "exhaust" itself thats rattling I bet...but the entire engine moving the exhaust that's tied to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't disagree- there is about 1/8" of space between the exhaust and skid. The engine is definitely shaking a bit under load. The rattle isn't constant; only when under a subtle load. I just don't want to have to drive like hell simply to avoid a rattle.
 

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Correct, it isn't the exhaust itself rattling, it's the contact of the cross over pipe and cross member skid whenever the engine moves, whether it's idling or under torque.

Here's how close the pipe is to the skid with the spacers installed.



The aFe pipe hits the ear on the passenger side of the trans skid and wouldnt connect up under the transfer case.





I bought JE Reel 1310 with replacement yokes to take care of the contact issue between the drive shaft and cross over pipe. I tried to get by cheap by getting the spacers and then the aFe pipe, but wound up going with the most expensive option anyway. I talked with Reel and they sell a configuration specific to the 2012 since there's a 2" shift in transfer case location between the 3.8 and 3.6. I didn't think to ask if it shifted forward or backward. The drive shaft is still boxed up in my garage right now and I'll try to make time this weekend to put it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the details and pictures, Danny. Please update once you get the shaft installed and flex it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Gruntjeep, when you install the exhaust spacers, leave everything slightly loose. Pry the passenger side upward as much as possible to get maximum clearance out between the exhaust and skid before you button everything down.

Even still, you're almost guaranteed to rattle.
 

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Has anyone tried installing a forcefield under their 2012? I need a sponsor... I'm frustrated with mine... Is it just me or is everyone having as much grief with the changes... I'm on my second set of coils about to order another set to get the right setup because my RK 3.5's lifted me >6" in the front (after bumpers and winch) which killed my pinion angle with the angle of the 3.6L and the crossover pipe limiting travel. New arms to dial out the pinion. Basically upgraded from RK 3.5 Midarm Flex to 2.5 X-Factor just to fix everything. Wonder what new and exciting issues this will expose?!?! Frustrating to know its going to rattle...
 

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Do you still need to relocate your evaporator coil with this kit or is that covered as well?
Not sure what you mean by evaporator coil, could you clarify? (evaporator canister maybe?)

Which lift do you have installed? Haven't ordered my shafts yet... How do uou like the JEReel? I've got the Evo Protek and Teraflex spacers to put on and trying to figure my other issues.
I've only got about 20 miles on the Reel, but so far, no vibration and no problems. I went with replacement yokes so the shaft angle would be a little less than a shaft with adaptor plates.

I've got a Synergy 3" lift with control arms, but drive shaft contact with the cross over pipe has more to do with extended shock length and less to do with lift height. I believe the factory shaft is safe as long as the new shocks are maximum 2" longer than the factory shocks. Any longer and the axle will droop far enough to allow the plastic boot to make contact with the exhaust pipe. My Bilstein shocks are 27.56" extended so keep that in mind when I post my results.

And as mentioned above, you'll probably still have rattling issues with the spacers, but since you already have them, it doesn't hurt to try. I've seen several people say they had issues with spacers, but I've also seen one post that said they were rattle free.
 

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I melted the boot on mine at normal operation after I transferred my RK 3.5 from my Unlimited to my 2-door. As said, the RK 3.5 gave me >6" of lift and placed my front driveshaft 1/4" off the crossover sitting in the garage. Boot melted as soon as I let out the clutch.
 

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OK, I read right over the 6" of lift. My information and experience is based on 2-4" of lift. If I can't find a decent place to flex, I may just jack up my jeep next weekend and take off the tires so I can drop the axle down to fully extend the shocks. This should give me a pretty accurate picture on whether or not a new drive shaft is all that is needed.

Also, in the JE Reel instructions, they state that front drive line angle is 3.25 degrees greater on the 2012 when compared to 2007-2011. This creates a drive line angle equivalent to a 3.8 with a 2-1/2" lift. So your drive shaft angle with 6" of lift is equivalent to an 07-11 with over 8" of lift. But on a positive note, if the front TC shaft is rotated up 3.25 degrees, then it's probably safe to assume that the rear TC shaft is rotated down 3.25 degrees which should be good news to 2-door owners.

I scanned and uploaded the Reel instructions if you're interested:

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6tSn7NDCF0RZjJUbjBoN2ZDVG8
 

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Just an update for anyone interested. I put the jeep on jack stands and pulled the wheels off to see if a full droop would create contact between the JE Reel drive shaft and cross over pipe.



I did have some contact, but it didn't look like the shaft was really pressing on the cross over pipe very much.




It got me wondering how much longer my shock would go before it was fully extended and the answer is that it was already fully extended. So the way I see it is if you go with a replacement drive shaft and keep the factory cross over pipe, you can run a front shock that has an extended length of 27.56" or less.

 
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