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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After being under my jeep and seeing the crappy install that somebody did on the Teraflex elite lift. (ONCE I GET HOME AND GET INVOICE I WILL NAME THE SHOP)

I am thinking about cutting it all off and redoing it or replacing the lift. I need to find somebody with knowledge to go with me and watch it crawl and see what's binding and banging. I've greased every joint that is serviceable. I cant tell if a tire is rubbing in the rear or if something is binding. I just Don't like how they left pieces of the factory mounts that have been hacked off left on the frame. I don't like the ignorant welder that welded everything on. Ill take pictures tonight. I just drove my truck to work today and have been stewing about the suspension after it was clunking when I got it in to a bind on the jobsite yesterday. Just wanted to put this out here. Im running 37s and will be going to 40s once the axles, atlas and LSA are done. Is teraflex over rated and just a marketing company? honest opinions. Either manufacture is welcome to jump in Id be happy to have both reply.

the options is repair or replace. or say fuck it and go coil overs.
 

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going coilovers doesnt change your arms. if they hacked off the factory mounts, and you want to go with an off the shelf short arm, you need to have mounts welded back on. so far as i know, springs and shock placement dont change with any kits, only the arms.
 

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You already have several thousand dollars invested in the Teraflex kit. Unless you can get a full refund and cut your loss I would say to fix any problems on the Teraflex kit. The cost to correct any issues should be much less than the cost to replace the entire kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You already have several thousand dollars invested in the Teraflex kit. Unless you can get a full refund and cut your loss I would say to fix any problems on the Teraflex kit. The cost to correct any issues should be much less than the cost to replace the entire kit.
Oh I agree but I don't see the lift run here very often and wanted to know if it was worth keeping. I can use the plasma cutter and take the factory mounts the rest of the way off, I can re weld everything myself. but doing D60 front and rear and the atlas 4 with an LSA im doing this once and doing it right! I just didn't know if it was worth changing the springs over to the dual rate springs or keeping the teraflex springs.
 

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The teraflex parts are not your problem, sounds like you got a bad install.

I don't like the ignorant welder that welded everything on. Ill take pictures tonight.
pictures would help...also, the new brackets for the long arms did need to be welded on. I take it you mean you don't like the welding job?
 

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It really does sound like the install is the main source of the problems you are experiencing.

At this stage, in order to go with the Metalcloak Game-Changer, you would have to have all the stock brackets replaced and the new brackets removed.

I would recommend finding another shop and have them go through the install and make any corrections necessary. The Teraflex kit should not be giving you those problems.
 

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A friend of mine down in Arizona runs that exact same lift kit and has nothing but praise for it. In my opinion the top manufacturers of suspension systems are (in no order)

Teraflex
Rock Krawler
Synergy Suspension
Metalcloak

All of them have pros and cons but none are better than one another.
 

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A friend of mine down in Arizona runs that exact same lift kit and has nothing but praise for it. In my opinion the top manufacturers of suspension systems are (in no order)

Teraflex
Rock Krawler
Synergy Suspension
Metalcloak

All of them have pros and cons but none are better than one another.
I have teraflex. Never owned rock krawler, but I am a fan of a kit the corrects steering geometry, just sayin'.

My teraflex lift has been pretty good for short arm 4" lift. I do have monster track bars as well. Only real beef is the front upper frame control arm bushings seem to go prematurely but that is due to heat from the exhaust manifolds.
Other beef is the sway bar links are grease able but u have tweak the grease zeros by grinding down the screw in insert portion of the zerk so grease may enter the link bushings.

It has been very stuff though.and great customer service.
 

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Yup sounds like an install problem. Other than one small clearance issue I had with my 3" TF LA I have nothing but good to say about it. Teraflex corrected the issue and was even willing to swap my arms for me even though they didn't do the install, I didn't feel like waiting so I did it myself.

I'd figure out what the actual problems are and post some detailed pics of what you specifically have a problem with, this should get you some more help.
 

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I had the the reflex LCG 4" long arm with pro rock 60s on my last build. My only complaints with the kit was that the steering geometry was not addressed and I had to fabricate some relocation tabs up front.

Once installed and steering fixed it worked great (with one caveat). The rear control arm brackets hang down very low and hung on everything!!! No on 40s that would happen less...but!

Look at my build in my signature for details
 

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A friend of mine down in Arizona runs that exact same lift kit and has nothing but praise for it. In my opinion the top manufacturers of suspension systems are (in no order)

Teraflex
Rock Krawler
Synergy Suspension
Metalcloak

All of them have pros and cons but none are better than one another.
That could be heavily debated. I have experience with all of those products and don't agree with the top two. But you are forgetting Currie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
The ticket should have been the first clue about a crappy shop. Can you tell from the pictures of my jeep if it has the 4 or 3 on it? I didn't think these 37s would clear without going to the 4 inch? Ill get good pictures today. We didn't leave work till like 9pm yesterday. These I had on my phone. The weld picture is from the Left Rear arm at the frame























 

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That bar you pictured is just the exhaust. Your exhaust must be routed differently.

The front sway bar links will hit the fender liner under articulation, so I would say that is a non-issue. You could help it by getting a shorter bolt.

The weld isn't pretty but looks like it penetrated well (not all boogery and fat).

You have a hemi, right? The spacer was probably added to compensate for the extra weight so your rig wouldn't have a rake.

You said you heard some banging around, right? Another person was having an issue with their high-clearance Teraflex arms hitting the frame under full compression. Perhaps you have the same issue. His fix was swapping out the pre-bent arms for straight ones.

And you definitely should trim your rockers and rails a bit more at the rear pinch seam...
 

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That bar you pictured is just the exhaust. Your exhaust must be routed differently.

The front sway bar links will hit the fender liner under articulation, so I would say that is a non-issue. You could help it by getting a shorter bolt.

The weld isn't pretty but looks like it penetrated well (not all boogery and fat).

You have a hemi, right? The spacer was probably added to compensate for the extra weight so your rig wouldn't have a rake.

You said you heard some banging around, right? Another person was having an issue with their high-clearance Teraflex arms hitting the frame under full compression. Perhaps you have the same issue. His fix was swapping out the pre-bent arms for straight ones.

And you definitely should trim your rockers and rails a bit more at the rear pinch seam...
All of this. Plus, I'd wonder why they installed a 3" lift and then added what apears to be a 2" spacer. Not enough info here to determine what your issues are.

BTW, if the rear arms are hitting the mount you just need to adjust your rear bump stops. You have one of the best JK suspensions out there, but it has to be properly set up to perform properly. A few more pictures would help.
 
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