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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is a basic lift install I did on JKboard. I thought I would copy it over here as well! PLease post up if you have any questions! :beer::mr-t:

Below is a walk through install for the TeraFlex 2.5 inch HD BB lift on a 2007 2 door
I know there are a few how-to’s already floating around on the internet but, as always, I felt a need to through my 2 cents out there. :eek:ccasion:

The Lift…
The lift is a TeraFlex 2.5 inch Heavy Duty Budget Boost. The TeraFlex part number is: 001251000. You can find the only printed material I have seen about it by downloading their .pdf catalog. CLICK HERE.
It is not the regular BB. It is the Heavy Duty BB near the bottom. I paid $459 for the kit and received it within 3 business days from the day it was ordered. I could not find anywhere online to order this kit and nobody seems to believe it exists. I had to go to my local 4wd shop (Central 4wd for those in Washington) to order it.

This kit will give you ~2.5 inches of lift and level your Jeep so it will no longer have the factory “rake”. In addition, the front will be about ~.5 inch taller then the rear so that with a steel front bumper and winch you should be exactly level when when the bumper is all installed, which I have yet to do, still waiting, waiting, waiting... :drunken:

The HD BB kit includes:• 2 front shocks
• 2 rear shocks
• Rear spring spacers
• Rear extended brake line brackets
• Rear extended sway bar links
• Front extended sway bar links with quick disconnects
• Pair front HD springs
• Front bump stop extenders
• Rear bump stops


Tools needed…
This install is very simple, only basic hand tools will be needed. I did not remove the front or rear track bars, however, I did use spring compressors for the front. This list should be everything you will need…
• Sockets = deep 10mm, 10mm, 16mm, 18mm, 19mm, 7/16
• 3” and 6” socket wrench extension
• Wrenches = 13mm, 16mm, 18mm, 19mm, ½, 5/8
• Crescent wrench
• Flat head screw driver or pliers
• Breaker bar
• 1 or 2 6 packs depending on your tolerance
• Anti Seize (on everything, lol)
• 20”+ floor jack and a small jack or "bottle" type jack
• Two jack stands
• Strut coil spring compressor. Like the ones pictured HERE. Do not get the regular spring compressors that go in the middle of the coil as the bumpstop will be in the way.

The lift took me 5 hours to do solo from begging to end of clean up. This was in a parking lot. If you have friends, less beer, experience and/or a garage it may take you less time.


On to the write-up…
1. I started this lift with the rear. No particular reason :rr:. Chock your front wheels. Loosen the lugnuts and jack up the rear. Place jack stands under the frame and check that it is solid. Be sure you jack it up as high as possible as you will need the room to drop the axel as far as possible. Place a jack under the rear differential and jack it up just enough to put the weight of the axel on the jack.

2. Remove both the rear wheels. I started by removing everything that I did not want to break when I lowered the axel.
• Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt holding the rear brake lines to the frame on both sides.

• Using a 10mm deep socket, remove the two bolts holding the parking brake to the tub.

• Using a flat head screw driver or pliers, remove the plastic retaining clips holding the electrical wires running to the brakes. On both sides I removed one on the frame rail and only one from the bracket near the calipers.

• Pull the vent tube off the top of the axel.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
3. Remove the shocks. First remove the two upper bolts using a 6 inch or longer extension.


4. Then, remove the lower bolt using your 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.


5. Next, remove the sway bar from both sides using the 18mm socket and wrench.


6. If you are replacing the sway bar links, you will need to remove the stocker links from the sway bar. The nut is 18mm. The other side should be a 19mm but the largest wrench I had was 18mm so the handy dandy crescent wrench had to do…


7. Ok, you are now ready to lower the axel. Lower the jack under the differential all the way down but make sure you do not overextend any brakelines. At this point the rear springs should be just about falling off the truck. (I did not remove the trackbar for this lift. I do not believe you would have to for a three inch lift either. 4 inch I am pretty sure you would need to). Remove the stock springs and rubber isolater from the top.


8. You will notice there is a hole in the upper perch. This is the hole your TeraFlex spacer will pop into. I had a hard time getting mine to go in by hand (did that sound bad?), so I just set a small jack on top of the axel to “push” them in. I think a bottle jack would have worked even better.


9. Slide the stock rubber isolators back onto the new spacers.


10. You should now be able to simply slip the stock springs back on. Place the top into position and the slip the bottom into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
10. You should now be able to simply slip the stock springs back on. Place the top into position and the slip the bottom into place.


11. Install the new rear bump stop extensions. Using the supplied hardware, bolt it into the existing holes. No drilling! Thanks Jeep.


12. Now, jack the axel back up, be sure the springs and isolators are seating properly as you raise the axel.

13. Install the new sway bar links. Using the 18mm stock bolt and the new 18mm bolt, install the link on the inside of the swaybar and the outside of the bracket on the axel. It is important the link is on the inside of the sway bar or you may have rubbing issues.


14. Install the new shocks. The easiest way is to loosely install the bottom of the shock using the stock 18mm bolt, remove the retaining wire on the shocks and install the top two bolts on the bar pin, then tighten down the bottom bolt.

15. Install the brake line extensions using the stock 10mm bolt. Be sure it bends inwards. Bolt the brake line to the extension using the newly supplied hardware.


16. reinstall the parking brake line bracket, brake wiring and axel breather hose.


17. Ok, on to the front! Put your rear tires back on, move everything to the front. Chock your rear tires, loosen your front lug nuts, jack up the front as high as possible and put jack stands under the frame rails and remove the front tires. Put a jack under the center of the front axel and jack it up just enough to put the weight of the axel on the jack.

18. First thing that needs to be done is to remove your front shocks. 5/8 up top and 16mm on the shock.


19. Remove the lower 18mm bolt and toss your stock shocks in your neighbor’s yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
20. Sway bar links are the next to go. Same thing as the rear. Remove the lower bolt on both sides and then remove the link from the sway bar.


21. Lower the axel as far as possible.

Now at this part you have a decision to make. You can remove the front trackbar. You would probably be able to install the new springs without using a compressor. The trackbar is easy to remove and would possibly be less work that route. I had the compressors so I just used them. It was very simple and safe to do. People will argue both sides but after almost loosing my thumb dickin around with springs I just don’t mess around now. Since I was using the compressors, there just was no need to remove the trackbar. If you do not have compressors you can rent them for $5 at a autoparts store. I recommend getting strut coil compressors and not spring compressors. Strut coil compressors are two clamps that go on the outside of the spring. A spring compressor goes on the inside of the spring but because of our bumpstops this does not really work.

22. So, with the axel lowered, simply lift your stock springs out.


23. Grab a hold of the factory bumpstop and pull out of the cup.


24. You will now need to press the bump stop extensions into that same cup. I used the same method as the rear. I placed a small jack on the axel and pressed the bumpstop extension into place.


25. Press the factory bumpstop into the new bumpstop extension.


26. ok, this is the fun part. Place a compressor on opposite sides of the new spring. Make sure you put them on the spring in a way that when you put the spring on the Jeep, it will line up properly with its seat in the bottom.


27. Screw the compressors down. Be sure alternate sides as you go to keep the spring straight. I used the stock spring as a gage. Once the new spring was a couple inches shorter then the stock spring I installed it. Just be carefull to not drop or bump around too much while compressed. :violent1:. Once in place, unscrew the compressors. Be sure the spring seats properly in the bottom perch as you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
28. Install the front swaybar links/disconnects. The top uses the factory bolt and the disconnect goes on the bottom. CLICK HERE for an install guide for the disconnect. The top goes on the outside of the swaybar and the bottom goes on the inside of the bracket.


29. install the parking pin for the sway bar. Remove the nut on the body mount bolt and discard. Slide on the new bracket and bolt down with the new nylock nut. Once tightened, screw in the pin and jam nut to the bracket.


30. Almost there! Install the new front shocks. Same as rear. First loosely install the bottom of the shock with the factory bolt.


31. Remove the retaining wire on the shocks and install the top bushings and nut. Then tighten the bottom bolt.


32. After replacing the wheels and lowering the vehicle I found I had one last step. My steering wheel was slightly off. Put your key in the ignition and center the wheels. Loosen the two bolts on the draglink colar until you are able to turn the sleeve. Turn it either clockwise or counter clockwise until the wheel is centered then retighten the bolt!

THAT’S IT!
Go take a test drive. See if your steering wheel is straight and see how fast you can take corners! :shock:

This should be pretty accurate. If you notice any errors or anything I left out, please PM me the details and I will update this for others!
 

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Nice write up!

I'm digging those gold colored springs. Reminds me of some of those I've seen at low rider shows. Course theirs were 24ct gold plated.

Seriously good job on the write up. :bounce:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
yah, I expected them to be black when I got them.

In these pictures they look really gold because of the sun and camera. Most time they look a darker bronze and don't look so ricey.:grinpimp:




 

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Great Write Up!

What size tire are you running? Is that the stock one?

What size wheel? Pro Comp?

I am thinking of doing this to my 08 Rubi to level things out, but wasn't ready shell out the $$$ tires & wheels just yet.

Also, if I have the factory sway bar disconect, I wouldn't need the ones that come with the kit right?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Great Write Up!

What size tire are you running? Is that the stock one?

What size wheel? Pro Comp?

I am thinking of doing this to my 08 Rubi to level things out, but wasn't ready shell out the $$$ tires & wheels just yet.

Also, if I have the factory sway bar disconect, I wouldn't need the ones that come with the kit right?
The tires are 35"x12.50" BFG Mud terrain KM's

The wheels are Crager Soft 8's 15x8. The Back spacing is 4". I belive the Pro Comps are 3.75". That extra 1/4 on the Pro Comps would have been nice to have with how tight the fit is.

You are correct about not needing the disco from this kit if you have the factory electro disco :massey:
 

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Nice write up!

Are those quick disconnects that came with the kit? on the front I can't really tell in the pictures!

Good lookin Jeep!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yes, they are quick disconnects! It also comes with extended rear endlinks but they are not discos.

And thank you for the kind words :D:beer:

Here is a picture of the disconnect setup. They are just a basic setup but they are greasable. The thing I do like was that it came with a second set of studs to be used as a "park" for the endlinks when disconnected.
 

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Excellent write up, very detailed :smokin:

One thing though, the pic below is is the tie rod, you don't want to adjust that unless you want to get an alignment. You want to adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel.

32. After replacing the wheels and lowering the vehicle I found I had one last step. My steering wheel was slightly off. Put your key in the ignition and center the wheels. Loosen this bolt until you are able to turn the sleeve inside. Turn it either clockwise or counter clockwise until the wheel is centered then retighten the bolt!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Good eye, sorry photo mix up. :blush2: I wrote this a few days after doing it. i will get the correct photo of the draglink later today and I just edited the original post...
 

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Other than the spacers for the rear what is the difference between this kit and the 2.5 inch that they offer that comes with 4 springs? I sent Teraflex a e-mail about the part # you gave I hope they respond. Thanks, good right up.
Kevin.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well, I think the springs are a stiffer spring rate. think that was about it

Sounds like this kit has been discontinued though


god, I forgot how gold those coils came out looking i these pics when they were new, lol
 

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Other than the spacers for the rear what is the difference between this kit and the 2.5 inch that they offer that comes with 4 springs? I sent Teraflex a e-mail about the part # you gave I hope they respond. Thanks, good right up.
Kevin.
I haven't gotten an Email from you, but the part number referenced above is now the 4-coil "Deuce and a Half" 2.5" kit. The HD BB as pictured above doesn't exist anymore.

well, I think the springs are a stiffer spring rate. think that was about it

Sounds like this kit has been discontinued though


god, I forgot how gold those coils came out looking i these pics when they were new, lol
You're pretty close! The current 2.5" spring kit sits probably just a hair shorter in the front than the kit you got, the rear springs are going to be fairly close to what you got from the spacers though. The kit pictured above worked well on 4 door JK's, but were too tall in the front on a 2 door. The current kit works better for both.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The kit pictured above worked well on 4 door JK's, but were too tall in the front on a 2 door. The current kit works better for both.
your not jokin!! To be honest, even with my winch and winch bumper I am siting closer to 3.5" - 4" of lift in the front!! I had to lift the rear about 1" - 1.5" more to match up to the front
 

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Yep that is what the email from Teraflex said. They also gave me the price it is a bit more than what is suggested at the begining of this thread. Is the addition of the rear springs the only difference between the Kits?
Thanks,
Kevin.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yah thats what Carl had said. That the same part number now references the kit with 4 coils. He said the only differnce was the rear coils instead of spacers and the spring lengths in front are a little shorter.

Good luck! :beer:

ONly other Differnece I know of is I belive the coils are now a silver or grey powder coat rather then the bronze
 
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