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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hate the notchy feel in the 6spd, and I'm leaving Sunday for a trip and plan on changing the oil, thought I'd make the change over in the tranny to synthetic fluid while under it. Whats' the deal with the change over, any flushing or anything? And how much does the tranny hold?

Thanx!
 

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It's not really a bitch if you make the right tool, but that's the annoying part. I suggest aluminum foil or something to keep oil from getting on the exhaust and having to burn off.

I never noticed a difference between factory fill, Royal Purple or Amsoil manual trans fluid in my JK.
 

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If you wanna know the best advice. I got from a nascar racer that worked on transmission's/engines/etc. his whole life.

If the fluid doesn't smell burnt and the color is good. Don't ever change your fluid. Your just askin for problems
 

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If you wanna know the best advice. I got from a nascar racer that worked on transmission's/engines/etc. his whole life.

If the fluid doesn't smell burnt and the color is good. Don't ever change your fluid. Your just askin for problems
Sorry, but I disagree.

I believe the OP is talking about manual trans, which in this case I feel it's most important to drop the fluid to clean the magnet on the drain plug. Keeping from metal circulating throughout the trans if the magnet is full, since the occasional grind will happen.

As far as an automatic goes, if the auto has been running for 70,000 miles without a service and is suggested by the manufacture to be serviced at regular intervals...I'd agree on not changing it. For one reason, the fluid starts to carry clutch material and can actually cause excessive clutch wear while aiding the clutch holding as well. There is a point where that material in the fluid actually becomes vital because the clutches are so far worn that putting clean fluid in it will promote slipping.

Regularly servicing an automatic allows the filter to remain clean, promoting good flow. The pan magnet to be cleaned, to prevent excess material from traveling through the trans and there is without a doubt no advantage in any hydraulic system to run "dirty" fluid. Period. Clean fluid will lubricate better, clean better and transfer heat better (which is the #1 killer of autos). Now there are other transmissions (mostly European based or CVT) that have "lifetime fluid" in them. These don't share a whole lot with the 4-speed in a Wrangler and the fluid is about $30/quart that has very different properties than a basic transmission fluid....which is an entire other discussion.

I'm not sure if I understood your credible source was a "racer" or a NASCAR trans guy...but there isn't a whole lot in common between a stock car that gets rebuilt after every race and a vehicle that gets driven everyday. The "best advice" certainly depends on who you talk to. An engineer's opinion, backyard mechanic and a racer's opinion will vary drastically. I'm just a Master ASE and Master BMW dealership tech gone back to school for an engineering degree with my opinion...so whatever that is worth is up to you.

  • I do not suggest NOT regularly servicing an automatic that is designed to be serviced, period.

Just my 2cents.
 

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You, 6spd manual here, would like to do this over the weekend, just need to know what weight to buy

Amsoil sells their recommended fluid as a 5w-30 viscosity. I am not sure the factory Mopar fluid displays a viscosity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's interesting, Autozone sells like an 80 weight.

I have to dig up a pic of my Cuda' and Challenger, the Cuda' was red, but the Challenger was Puke Green.
 

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That's interesting, Autozone sells like an 80 weight.

I have to dig up a pic of my Cuda' and Challenger, the Cuda' was red, but the Challenger was Puke Green.
The 833 4-gear in that Cuda or Challenger would prefer that 80/90w trans fluid. The factory [JK] fluid certainly wasn't a very heavy weight when I changed it.
 
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