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Bent another front sway bar link on Saturday. I had a spare (well actually a repaired previously broken one) for the drive home. I've seen a few other pics of this people having this problem, so I know I'm not alone.

I can easily make or buy some stronger ones, but not exactly convinced that won't generate some other issue. The ends of my sway bar are horizontal when the vehicle is at rest, which is how they should be, but maybe going slightly longer on the links may help resolve the issue.

The other alternative is go to quick discos and forget about the electronic disconnect.

Thoughts/ideas/suggestions?
 

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With the type of wheeling you do, I'd seriously consider abandoning the electronic disconnect and get some quick discos. The one thing that bothers me about the electronic "disconnect" is that the sway bars are still connected to the axle. Quick discos would at least eliminate your bent link problem.
 

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With the type of wheeling you do, I'd seriously consider abandoning the electronic disconnect and get some quick discos. The one thing that bothers me about the electronic "disconnect" is that the sway bars are still connected to the axle. Quick discos would at least eliminate your bent link problem.

That's not the perfect solution. The benefit of the electronic disconnect is that when you get in an off-camber situation, you can be connected easily. Something you realistically won't be doing with quick-discos.

The Currie anti-rock sway stays "hooked up." It seems that longer links that might make the sway bars just above parallel but offer more articulation would be the best "all around" solution.
 
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If mine start breaking all the time I’ll do a combination of both. Sometimes I’ll just use the electrical disconnect but on harder trails I’ll quick disco them.
 

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How are they breaking? What exactly is failing? Are they stock or aftermarket, what brand?
 

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How are they breaking? What exactly is failing? Are they stock or aftermarket, what brand?
There's been some discussion also here: http://www.jkwheeling.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=343&hilit=

If there is more droop due to a "better" suspension, then the sway bar links would be maxing out..... right?

Longer links or disconnected links for major articulation would be required. I see the downside to having the swaybar below horizontal, but since you have less compression in the suspension cycle than you do droop, it seems that having the links longer and the swaybar above horizontal would be OK so that the links don't straighten out at max droop.

all thinking out loud
That's what I'm thinking too. Go a couple inches longer. If I knew exactly how they were getting bent, it would make life easier. I see it as one of two things;

A/ The links just bend due to the force applied to them, but with the sway bar disconnected the force should not be that great. If this where the case then shorter links would most probably be better.

B/ The links try to come up the wrong way when returning from full droop and just get mangled. In which case longer links would most probably be better.
before, your shocks were limiting your droop. Now I bet the swaybar limits your droop
In this situation, it would be like your elbow going to full 180 degree lock and then a force pushing along it's axis towards the shoulder. It's ok if the elbow bends and the forearm moves back towards the bicep like it's supposed to, but when it tries to move towards the tricep from the full lock, something has to give. In this case it's the link bending.

That's my theory, anyway. It's a case of swaybar link hyperextension.
Having seen both of them bend, I'm convinced the joint is locking up under full articulation and then collapsing the link once the axle is compressing. I'd say it's time for some quick discos and limiting straps...or just limiting straps.
 

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I would just run longer sway bar link if you think they are too short and breaking as a result of it. Our SB links have a bushing on one end and a threaded in rod end on the other. The rears are long and are easy to shorten, just cut the threaded end off and run a tap thru it, you dont have to drill it.
 
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I don't know if this is useful or not. One thing I discovered regarding my electronic disconnect is that if you have the sway bar disconnected in 4 lo and then shut the engine off/ restart it, the sway bar stays disconnected, as you'd expect. However, if you have it in 4 hi and shut the engine off and restart it, the sway bar reverts to the "connected" state. You may not notice this as the only indication is the lack of the indicator light (thanks, Chrysler).

This can leave you wheeling with the sway bar connected if you happen to be in 4 hi and stop for a break. Then, if you hit difficult terrain and shift to 4 lo, you might get into a situation where the front is trying to articulate heavily and the sway bar is connected, putting heavy stresses on the links and the electronic disconnect mechanism.

I did this while in Anza Borrego since the terrain was a mixture of "higher speed" washes/ dirt roads and then some slow crawling type stuff. I would shift to 4 hi for the washes/ roads and then shift into 4 lo for the more difficult stuff. Sometimes we would stop while in 4 hi, shut the engine off, and then start up again. I kept noticing that sometimes I would get a lot of groaning from the suspension when articulating over difficult stuff (but not always) and it just didn't register what was happening. When I left at the end of the weekend, my electronic disconnect was shot (luckily the dealership covered it). I suspect that if the links had been a bit weaker they might have bent.

Just a thought!
 

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gcg wrote "my electronic disconnect was shot (luckily the dealership covered it)"

Could you please tell me how you knew this part was shot. I have a stock draglink that bounces and makes all kinds of noise. The dealership has already replaced it once. Maybe it has something to do with the electronic swaybar disconnect. Thanks for the heads up.


Thanks
 
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gcg wrote "my electronic disconnect was shot (luckily the dealership covered it)"

Could you please tell me how you knew this part was shot. I have a stock draglink that bounces and makes all kinds of noise. The dealership has already replaced it once. Maybe it has something to do with the electronic swaybar disconnect. Thanks for the heads up.


Thanks
When I tried to reconnect my sway bar, the light just kept blinking and never went off. I tried turning left and right, driving first one front wheel and then the other up on a curb, etc., but couldn't get it to reconnect. I also have manual disconnects so I disconnected one of them and, with the other still connected, I was able to move the free one through its full range of motion, so the bar was definitely staying disconnected (it wasn't just a blinking light). It didn't make any strange noises, just wouldn't reconnect.

I actually drove the thing home, 13 hours, with it disconnected and the light blinking at me the whole way. Not the brightest thing to do but I didn't have much in the way of an alternative.
 
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