[crusty1007]

Im looking for the sway bar disconnect bypass modification.
Has anyone done this or seen a write up on it?
Im stareing @ the wiring diagram and it seems as if it will be similiar to doing the lockers and making a switched ground... can anyone verify this procedure?

Thanks!

 

[MichaelW]

I haven't looked and don't know the answer but I can offer this.

I busted up one of my sway bar arms on a trail and just disconnected it then zip tied the one side up. I effectively had a permanently disconnected sway bar.

Is there a reason to permanently disconnect the sway bar? I kind of like mine. :grinpimp:

 

[crusty1007]

It needs to still work (engage/disengage) but the way they are set from the factory is that they only disconnect in low range...... by bypassing you could disconnect in high or low...... similiar to doing the locker mod..

 

[drbeddow]

It needs to still work (engage/disengage) but the way they are set from the factory is that they only disconnect in low range...... by bypassing you could disconnect in high or low...... similiar to doing the locker mod..

But why would you? I know when I'm rock crawling and need it I'm in low range and if I'm fireroading or other faster activities I want it working.

 

[Beat95YJ]

But why would you? I know when I'm rock crawling and need it I'm in low range and if I'm fireroading or other faster activities I want it working.

It depends on what you are doing, what springs and shocks you are running etc. In the dezert I always liked it uncoupled, in the dunes I used to leave mine connected.

there are lots of variables to be considered.

 

[MichaelW]

It needs to still work (engage/disengage) but the way they are set from the factory is that they only disconnect in low range...... by bypassing you could disconnect in high or low...... similiar to doing the locker mod..

Ah ok, For some reason I thought you were looking for a permanent disconnect. So basically you need to find out whatever voltage or ground is coming from the t-case and going to the sway bar sensor. Then not use that wire but instead provide your own with the proper voltage or ground condition that allows the relay in the sway bar disconnect to disconnect.

Where are you looking at the wiring diagram? What manual and what page? Can you post a scan of it? I too have the fleet service manuals so I could take a look.

 

[jdrogers]

It needs to still work (engage/disengage) but the way they are set from the factory is that they only disconnect in low range...... by bypassing you could disconnect in high or low...... similiar to doing the locker mod..

The sway bar will disconnect in either 4 high or 4 low.

I don't think you can do some kind of bypass to simply connect/disconnect the sway bar with a switch like you can with the lockers. You can do this to the lockers because there are relays that provide power to the lockers in locked mode and you can just override these relays. The logic controlling the sway bar is contained in the sway bar motor assembly and it communicates with the ECU using the CAN-BUS system.

You could do the transfer case position override with a simple switch to make the ECU think the transfer case is in 4 low. This allows both the sway bar and the lockers to work all the time and turns off ESP.

 

[Gib]

I don't remember if it was on jeepforum or jeepsunlimited, but a guy bought a new swaybar from the dealership and wired it to work with his TJ. He had all the wiring figured out in that thread.

 

[luigi0523]

Try this - http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/JKLockerHacks.php - they say this will let the lockers and the disconnect work in 2 and 4Hi.

 

[crusty1007]

Thanks, I was looking @ doing some kind of switch for a temp. bypass. A 3- pole switch with the proper resistance possibly would do for now so as not to affect the factory settings.

 

[PhilD]

I busted up one of my sway bar arms on a trail and just disconnected it then zip tied the one side up. I effectively had a permanently disconnected sway bar.

I did the same thing, horseshoed the passenger side link. Managed to bash/bend it straight on the bumper of an old Montero