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I have a 08' 2 door x. have the oppertunity to get a electronic disconnect from a 09' Rubi, it this an esay switch. I understand I'll need switches etc!
 

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You will need the harness, the sway bar, the switches, to install everything and then have the dealer flash your computer. Very few people go this route unless they are simply replacing a failed smartbar, it is generally more expensive than going with an aftermarket system (that is arguably better).
 

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I'd look for a mechanical disconnect before that. If you search my previous started threads I looked at my options for one. (not a link disconnect, a turn the knob disconnect)
 

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I have never heard a good thing about the stock system that comes on Rubis. Its one of those options that would have been better left off the build sheet form the factory and added at owners request. I understand the need to keep up with some other manufactures but a real wheeler can get out and pull pins and tie it up. If you go in water it gets wet and if you go on rocks it gets hit. Good idea but not practical when you think about it. I think I know (1) JK rubi guy that still uses his factory one.
 

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If u decide to go this route I saw a bunch of the wirin harness's in scratch and dent at 4wd in columbiana pm bustabizz that's his home store
 

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There i no question that a Currie is a good move but there is also another excellent product and that is the SwayLOC. It is the original dual rate anti-swaybar for Wrangler’s. The SwayLOC anti-sway bar system improves balance and control, and it does that while providing full articulation during off-road use. The best thing is that it delivers near OEM on-road ride quality and you don't have to mess with disconnect links. You can get it with an air operated remote controlled latching mechanism or the new “Flip-a-Lever” simple manually controlled latch. I have the electronic sway bar on my Rubi and the first time it goes awry I will be adding the SwayLOC. I do have the Currie Aluminum unit in the rear of my JK.

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There i no question that a Currie is a good move but there is also another excellent product and that is the SwayLOC. It is the original dual rate anti-swaybar for Wrangler’s. The SwayLOC anti-sway bar system improves balance and control, and it does that while providing full articulation during off-road use. The best thing is that it delivers near OEM on-road ride quality and you don't have to mess with disconnect links. You can get it with an air operated remote controlled latching mechanism or the new “Flip-a-Lever” simple manually controlled latch. I have the electronic sway bar on my Rubi and the first time it goes awry I will be adding the SwayLOC. I do have the Currie Aluminum unit in the rear of my JK.

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Sorry I Totally disagree. Ive had the Pneumatic SwayLoc for 1.5yrs, it has failed me on many occasions, i have spent countless hours fixing maintaining and modifying it to work properly but it still plays up. Last week was the last straw when a swaybar link mount bent on me!
I know of a few guys in Aus (4 of us), we all bought ORO SwayLoc, i held onto mine the longest, the other blokes have all ditched there’s.
I just ordered a Rubi E-Disco, if it plays up i’ll put the bypass switch in like Venom has done.
Something we have to put up with in Australia is Roadworthy cars (in USA you guys get away with a lot with modifying your Jeeps, we are jealous!) for Legalities and Insurance etc, the ORO inst road legal, the Mopar Bar is, thats the main reason im getting it.
 

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Just something to keep in mind, if ya get really flexy with the e disco you can still thrash a link. My personal opinion... Just use a regular old manual disconnect link, zip tie it to the swaybar and ya don't have to worry about it.
 

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I have the oro manually sway loc, didn't wanna mess with the air actuated one figured it would fail
Ive had no isues with it and it's awesome on and offroad
My rubi edisco shit the bed
 

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As stated earlier, I wouldnt want to install a rubi e-disco unless I was replacing a broken one.

Now, I picked up my Rubi in Nov 08 as an 09 model, I wheel hard and often and my edisco is still working. I had one issue with it once on the Rubicon trail near the springs. It was a simple fix and I have had no other issues. I for one think they are plenty reliable, then again I put the obstacles under my tires not my bumper. I am also still running the stock axle shafts and lockers on 37"s with no failures. Pick a good line, and take it easy on the skinny pedal and you will be fine.
 

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Most of the Rubi owners in my club have done away with the system, its more trouble than its worth it you wheel hard, and disappoints you at the worst time.

I highly recommend the Poly discos. They are cheap, easy to install, nothing to break or malfunction, give you full potential flex, lets you keep your factory handling on the street, and do not rub big tires like other manual disco kits do.

I am not a fan of the Antirocks. Just from personal experience, I get much better trail and street performance on my 2 rigs with the factory sway bar and manual discos. The extra 3" of flex were more important to me on the trail, and the factory sway bar keeps the jeep tight in turns on the street.

And it takes less than a minute to manually disco, I'm not that lazy :D
 

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Yeah.... unhappy Currie and Rubi disco motor owner. The motor is too prone to breakage on the treadmill and like DD said.... three or four inches of lost travel sucks.

I will be drilling out my anti rocks and putting a pin when the nut used to go. I'll disconnect on most trails.
 

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Just something to keep in mind, if ya get really flexy with the e disco you can still thrash a link. My personal opinion... Just use a regular old manual disconnect link, zip tie it to the swaybar and ya don't have to worry about it.
I can attest to that.

From Saturday.

 

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I can attest to that.

From Saturday.

That's exactly what I was referring to thanx for posting that up. I was on tapatalk and couldn't link to the other thread easily, what can I say I'm lazy.
 

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man Marc - you tweaked it!

I like the idea of the push button disconnect but based on my experience it will eventually die on you if you do water crossings. I think for moderate dry wheeling it would be fine.

I went with Currie as a replacement.
 
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