I think you may see a small difference unless the links are way too long. The angle will not change the resistance that is applied when one tire goes up or down. I think the only thing that might be effected is when the link attached the the sway bar gets beyond a certain point it is not travelling in an optimal arc to apply down force. An extreme example would be if the sway bar end was pointed straight up 90* it wouldn't be applying any down force. I could be way off base though.

 

Which goes with what Mike was saying. If the swaybar was @ 90* all the force would be to the frame.
Makes sense !!







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The steeper the angle, the more bending load is put into the sway bar link and not into the sway bar. My head is elsewhere, but my rambling says you are also decreasing it's leverage/moment about the sway bar axis, giving you a higher roll stiffness.

Your moment about the sway bar would effectively be the cosine of the angle times the length from the bar centerline to the endlink bolt centerline. So at 20*, say that center to bolt measurement was 10"; 10*cos20 = 9.4" effective length. At a 0* angle, 10*cos0 = 10". Not a substantial difference, but at 40* you are at 7.5"...25% increase in roll-stiffness if that number was 10". [it's not].

So if only your left front hits a bump, it will translate more of that force through the chassis than through the sway bar that is level, resulting in a "harsher" ride.

There will be a tolerance that is hardly noticeable ~+/- 5-10* or so, but something like 40* should be remedied. The offset tolerance of +20/-5 is to keep the link from getting "under" the sway bar when drooped and pretzeling when that side goes into bump travel again.

I could be wrong though. :gluging:

 

Dang engineering students... :flipoff:

JK bro! Haha :bow:

 

Read that 4 times, I think I got it.


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Good info. Sounds like the same effect as adding drop brackets to the lower control arms.

 

Kinda sorta. I will say my sway bar is flat and I have control arm drop brackets though


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Not pretty but ...

Looking at this. I can't see the swaybar being effective at all. Looks like most of the upwards force would split the bar and maybe the bushing -limiting the force applied to the other side

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All that math and geometry gave me a headache. According to JKS, the optimum is 3degrees. I followed the instructions as I installed them last weekend, and ride and handling is good. Not sure if this helps, but here ya go.

http://4x4media.info/instructions/jks/JKS2943.pdf

 

You need to adjust your arrow, it would not move straight up like that and would be more at an angle as the axel moved in its arc.

Running the sway bar too high would also put your tires in danger of making contact and tearing out a sidewall.

 

Yea.. I see where you're going. The axle doesn't move straight up but forward. The angle would lesson some.


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The angle you have the arrow drawn would have the axle or sway bar mount around 4" forward of stock. As the axle stuffs it would move forward around 9/16" (on a short arm with 4" of lift) until it was level then it would start to pull away. You need to look at the system as a whole not just how the sway bar pushes up. You also have to account for the other side pulling down on the sway bar along with the front end of the jeep.

 

I run drop brackets but I understand you.


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I would think the optimal position would be the mid point between full stuff and full droop. That would give you the most torsional force acting on the opposite side and a more balanced response between extremes. But to prevent flipping the bar, then you would have to go longer a little.

I don't know. My brain is getting tired thinking about this.

 

I'm pretty sure Goody and I said the same thing, I just said it in English.

 

Ok .. I take full responsibly for tearing up a MC Thread on JKF. Somebody was talking about front link length. Iirc his supplied MC links were longer.
I ran the MC links with 4" of front lift and my swaybar was maybe 20 degrees pointed up.
I basically agreed with the post. Then noted -after installing the Artec SN tabes, my swaybar was a good 30-40 degrees pointed up. I had a pair of factory rears--put them on--now the SB is about level.
I know im not crazy-very aware how my 2 door handles.
There was a change .. Maybe not -in overall handling. the front end feels differently. Tighter/less roll?
There's a lot of pot holes and unevenness around here, I said "handled better"
--Prob a mistake--that's how the argument came about, disagreement, videos, geometry drawings on how the angle has 0 affect on road.

Will running the front swaybar at a extreme angle (45*) change anything in the way the jeep handles over uneven Shitty roads ?

I found this View attachment 149977
"Effective zone" what's this mean ? What happens if it's out of the "effective zone" .. Become ineffective ? Lol

KJ




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It definitely rides and handles better with the sway bar ends level or pointed up slighty vs pointed down. There is a very notricable difference on mine. I had front links that were too short for my current lift height before such that my front bar was pointing down about 10* now it is pointed up about 5* and the ride is noticably better.

 

Good info .. Ty all


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Found this at the following link, kjeeper10. The diagram there looks familiar. It basically says you want it level to keep the angles on both sides of the bar consistant during operation and therefore the torsion as well.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/SwayBar.shtml

Sway Bar Operation:

So, why is it important that the sway bar end link matches the suspension lift? Ideally, you want the arms on the end of the sway bar to be sitting horizontal to the ground and the end links sitting vertical at rest. This ensures that you get equal up and down force on each side of the bar when the body/frame tips to the side. This is because as the bar twists under load, the arms will bend up and down at equal angles from horizontal. If the arms were at an angle below horizontal (as would be the case if the suspension has been lifted) the two bar end angles would not be equal, resulting in a lessened anti-sway affect.

As you can see in the sketch below, on the left hand side is a sway bar set up with the ends parallel to the ground (the dotted bar outline in the center shows the rest position). Under cornering load, the bar is twisted up by the suspension loads, F1 is the force of the outside side being compressed upward, F2 is the force of the inside side pulling the sway bar downwards. If the bar starts out horizontal and then the two effective bar end lengths (L1 and L2) are equal, since one end is twisted upward to the same angle as the other end is twisted downward. On the right had side is an illustration of what happens if the sway bar does not start out horizontal. This would be the case if a suspension lift were installed (thus raising the frame and the sway bar attached to it) without extending the end links. In this example, you can see that as the one end of the bar twists upward, it's effective length, L1, gets longer and longer as the angle is decreased towards horizontal. And the effective length of the end of the bar twisting down, L2, gets shorter as it's angle increases. Since the torque in the bar must necessarily be balanced, F1*L1 must equal F2*L2. Since L2 is less than L1, F2 must be higher than F1 to maintain the equality of the torque in the bar. This means that there is less force supplied by the sway bar to the outside suspension component in the turn so the vehicle will lean farther than it would if the forces and lengths were equal, as they are on the left side of the sketch. Thus if the purpose of a sway (or anti-roll) bar is to resist body roll, then the most efficient setup is to have the ends of the sway bar as close to parallel to the ground at rest as possible.

 

Nice find man .. Good read.


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