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Jeep JK Headers

Call them and ask for Jamie. They were building them for resale through Rubitrux.

They are only a couple miles from me. I can do some digging. Initially they were going to build a complete exhaust using my Jeep as a template. They didnt like the way the stock manifold were so tight to Todd's motor mount. I introduced them to Rubitrux and they went with them.

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We build a set of headers for the Jeep JK and the 5.7L and the 6.4L, also a complete exhaust system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Waiting on some exhaust pipe flanges that (hopefully) won't leak. They're called Marman flanges and are made from stainless tubing with an end former. They use off-the-shelf V-band clamps. The shop owner had some issues with incorrect dimensions; corrected parts should be here by end of week.

Since the welds are located further away from the flange than the common "V-band" machined flanges, these shoudn't warp nearly as much.

EDIT: Just received some supposedly corrected parts on 3/28/19. The original set didn't clamp together properly and were still loose after tightening the clamp all the way. They replaced the female flanges and were supposed to be better sized, but they're basically identical to the originals. Returning these and going to try something else. What a disappointment - spent about 6 weeks trying to get a batch of these that would work. Maybe they will straighten out their manufacturing process eventually; but for now I'd recommend you not waste your time with these.



I've learned that idle hands (like when waiting on parts) makes me more likely to add silly mini projects to this swap. Decided to run the tail pipes through the rear crossmember (and eventually the bumper). With the body lift, I'll be able to tuck the mufflers higher and nearly flush with the frame rails. May as well take advantage of the extra space. This should help protect the exhaust tips from getting smashed on the trails. Plus, I figured if this mod doesn't work out, I can cut it out completely and go with one of the crossmember replacement options.

For the crossmember clearance holes, I'm using Sch. 40 ASTM A-500, 4-1/2" od x ~4" id, 4" length. Welded in with stick 6011.

 

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Hey Rockystock,

I am in the parts gathering/rebuilding stage of my 5.7 non-vvt (valve seat dropped core rebuild) + 238 6spd "extra cheap" swap and have found your thread very informative, especially your spreadsheet. Just two quick questions about your Ram swapped Getreg 238.

1)When you swapped the dakota shift tower out for the ram one, did you happen to look at Core Shifters? They have some nice and cheaper than OEM replacements that seem to work. Their Ram one replaces Mopar 05175991AA (Mopar stock for the 238 in the ram 1500s) and that seems to be what I'm looking for. I was able to find my 238 fairly easily as well, though used.

2)I have found information that the clutch from a '08 5.7 2500 truck will work, but no hard numbers on that, just a blurb online. What are your thoughts? Do you have any practical experience with that combo?

Love your work and as I progress in my build i will make a thread to help folks out as well.

Regards,
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Hey Rockystock,



I am in the parts gathering/rebuilding stage of my 5.7 non-vvt (valve seat dropped core rebuild) + 238 6spd "extra cheap" swap and have found your thread very informative, especially your spreadsheet. Just two quick questions about your Ram swapped Getreg 238.



1)When you swapped the dakota shift tower out for the ram one, did you happen to look at Core Shifters? They have some nice and cheaper than OEM replacements that seem to work. Their Ram one replaces Mopar 05175991AA (Mopar stock for the 238 in the ram 1500s) and that seems to be what I'm looking for. I was able to find my 238 fairly easily as well, though used.



2)I have found information that the clutch from a '08 5.7 2500 truck will work, but no hard numbers on that, just a blurb online. What are your thoughts? Do you have any practical experience with that combo?



Love your work and as I progress in my build i will make a thread to help folks out as well.



Regards,

Dan

Hi Dan,

Excellent, this thread is helping someone!!!! :bounce:

I didn't use the Ram shift tower and didn't try it either. I also did not try the Core Shifters product either. Either the OEM Ram or CS towers may be worth a try to see if they'd fit but I don't know if they do.

EDIT: A guy by the name Saharacon on JK-Forum used the Core Shifters setup on his G238; his jeep was for sale as of 3/8/19. He posted some photos of the shift tower on the trans a few months ago.

Instead, I took the G238 Dakota shift stub out of the tower and sent it and the stock NSG370 tower to Cleveland Power & Performance so they could swap the top of the stock stub onto the lower part of the G238 stub. Here's the guide I sent them (attached).

Here are some additional photos of the stub after modification:






I also don't know about the Ram 2500 clutch and/or flywheel, but I did also see a blurb:

Jeep JK Semi-Budget Hemi Swap

If you try the Ram parts and they work, please let us all know out here. My parts are all made for Dakota but definitely would be switching to Ram if the Dak parts grenade before their time...
 

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Thanks for those pics, Rocky! It appears to me that the Ram stick follows the same general lines as the Dakota/jeep modified shifter, so maybe I'll give the coreshifters one a try. They have some info on their site but it all involves taking measurements once the engine/tranny/transcase are all in place....then you order and wait another three weeks for the shifter....not the way I like to do it, but I'll see how receptive they are to some question/answer via email.

I dug a bit and came up with two AMS spec sheets, one for the 2500/hemi flywheel and one for the g238 Dakotas (both the 4.7 v8 and the 3.7 v6 use the same one, so that's good for used parts pickers like me). The only critical difference that I can see is the "crank bolt circle diameter" (3.151" for the hemi as opposed to 2.73" for the dakotas and "ring gear OD diameter" (14.59" for the hemi and 15.1" for the Dakotas). I don't have enough experience with custom fitting clutches (shade tree mechanic and i have never brought a vehicle to a shop but this will be my first engine/tranny swap) to know if these differences are a no-go! Like is there enough starter slop in the bolts to take up the .250" for the ring gear? Are those bolt holes circles close enough that it'll bolt? How comfortable am I with that much fudging? I just don't know!

Just checked the Ram 1500 with the g238 and its the exact same part number/flywheel as the dakotas.
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Thanks for those pics, Rocky! It appears to me that the Ram stick follows the same general lines as the Dakota/jeep modified shifter, so maybe I'll give the coreshifters one a try. They have some info on their site but it all involves taking measurements once the engine/tranny/transcase are all in place....then you order and wait another three weeks for the shifter....not the way I like to do it, but I'll see how receptive they are to some question/answer via email.

I dug a bit and came up with two AMS spec sheets, one for the 2500/hemi flywheel and one for the g238 Dakotas (both the 4.7 v8 and the 3.7 v6 use the same one, so that's good for used parts pickers like me). The only critical difference that I can see is the "crank bolt circle diameter" (3.151" for the hemi as opposed to 2.73" for the dakotas and "ring gear OD diameter" (14.59" for the hemi and 15.1" for the Dakotas). I don't have enough experience with custom fitting clutches (shade tree mechanic and i have never brought a vehicle to a shop but this will be my first engine/tranny swap) to know if these differences are a no-go! Like is there enough starter slop in the bolts to take up the .250" for the ring gear? Are those bolt holes circles close enough that it'll bolt? How comfortable am I with that much fudging? I just don't know!

Just checked the Ram 1500 with the g238 and its the exact same part number/flywheel as the dakotas.
Dan
I'm also a shade tree mechanic and almost never take my cars to a shop or dealer.

No big deal with fitting the engine/trans before measuring for a new shift tower, because you probably won't be able to install them with the shift tower mounted anyway...

The crank bolt circle numbers sound strange; I do know that the '05-'09 Dakota flywheel fits fine on the hemi crank. Just FWIW, flywheels with different bolt circles like you mentioned would not be interchangeable. You might be able to fit the different ring gears but you'd have trouble getting a starter motor to work.

Mopar never offered the G238 behind a hemi in production. The Ram 1500 with the same flywheel etc. as the Dakota was only for the 3.7 or 4.7 engines. The 2008 Ram 2500 only came with the 5.7 hemi; the manual trans. was the G56. From 2004-2006 I believe, the Ram 2500 used a variant of the NV4500 (which I believe was the vehicle that used the structural dust cover and dust shield that now works correctly for the hemi/G238). I could be off on the specific transmissions in the Rams - the available info is sparse.

Edit - Midwest Transmission has a nice vehicle selector that will show the available transmissions for a given vehicle. May help you find out which vehicles to hunt down for good used parts deals...

https://www.midwesttrans.com/webapp/catalog.jsp
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Scratched my head for a while figuring how to get the mufflers positioned so the tips were sitting centered in the crossmember holes. Got a 3" DWV pvc coupling, added a few layers of masking tape on the OD, and it works perfect with just a little room to nudge. Almost time to start welding up some hangers!



Probably going to delete the stock heat shield and add some adhesive shielding to the tub, maybe also wrap the mufflers.



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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I'm attempting to hang these mufflers as firmly as possible without hard-mounting. The tailpipes have about 1/4" clearance through the crossmember, and I want to make sure they stay centered. Trying three things to accomplish the install:

- polyurethane hangers in the stock locations. Poly doesn't flex as much as the stock rubber.

- silicone exhaust hanger grommets. These hangers required some fabbing, but seem to hold things very well.

- Flex bellows near the mufflers. The bellows will hopefully give the pipes some room to expand with temperature, without overstressing the mount brackets or pipe joints.

Almost done with the first muffler. Looks like they will need three mounts each to be fully stable.








Managed to get it tucked up nicely.



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Wow, this thread is bringing an admirable level of tech! :rockon:
Thanks for detailing your swap, especially all the little extra prep. details that would bite people in the ass if they just "slap it together". Like you, I'm a lazy mofo that doesn't like to work on stuff I already fixed :laughing:

Your exhaust looks like a boatload of fab. but it's turning out sweet!
Question: do you think those short bellows sections allow enough lateral movement for when the drivetrain torques over? Dunno how tight the hemi motor mounts are, but I just reconfigured my exhaust and had to allow room for the "wiggly 3.8 dance". (If you're running solid motor mounts, please disregard).

Totally jealous of your V8 / 6MT :cwm13:
(but I wanna' see you succeed anyway :thefinger: )

Bitchin' thread - thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Thanks for the kind words, ExWrench. I think I understand now why almost everyone outsources their exhaust work :laughing:

Question: do you think those short bellows sections allow enough lateral movement for when the drivetrain torques over? Dunno how tight the hemi motor mounts are, but I just reconfigured my exhaust and had to allow room for the "wiggly 3.8 dance". (If you're running solid motor mounts, please disregard).
That's a good question. Guess it depends on how much flex there is, but I think they should work OK for the hemi and 3.8. Where the bellows don't do well is with a constant lateral stress, like when the exhaust is thermally expanding and trying to flex the bellows sideways. The bellows have two tubing sections on the inside that slide in and out past each other. The tubing maximizes flow by shielding the exhaust from the bellows convolutes. The problem is that they fit close together and won't tolerate too much transverse strain, or they will rub (and maybe make noise, haven't lived through this yet).

Here are some shots of a second set I'm putting near the transfer case. These are made by Yonaka and they look much better made than the muffler bellows (the bellows at the mufflers were made by the same shop that makes those Marman flanges I tried - those bellows look and fit like they were homemade - like, at my home :homersimpson: - but they have a bit more space between the inner tubing so I put them in back there).



Inlet:



Outlet:



Here's an idea of the wiggle they may allow hopefully without too much drama:


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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Alright back to business. Got the run past the fuel tank and under the rear ds tacked in. I have about an inch minimum clearance from the TC; a little more from the fuel tank (I clearanced the tank skid by moving the side wall in about 3" and also added some aluminum thermal shield). There is only about 1/2" clearance from that big ds damper; may have to lose it with a double cardan upgrade [EDIT: more like an inch now. I adjusted by moving the downtube at the collector flange. A little adjustment there makes a big difference downstream. Looks like the rear DS and TC yoke can come out without removing the exhaust woohoo!]. Already committed to modifying the TC skid plate, so I'll build it around the exhaust tubing as well.

I'm using a mandrel bend just after the bellows - after fitting a pie cut bend in that spot, it looked like the V-band flange might get warped to shit so close to all that welding. The driver side tubing in the photo below is just sitting in the catalytic converter; I'll start on that side after getting the x-pipe properly hung in position.



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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
Welding in four small brackets to hold the x-pipe and resonators. I had to squeeze up between the rear axle and the relocated evap canister for the rear bracket. It was so tight, I couldn't even change my mind :laughing:



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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Got the last piece of the turns over the axle done tonight. That inboard / passenger side tube took 18 weld joints. The tubes have about 1/2" clearance under the crossmember, but I may have to see about a custom bent track bar. I'm swapping to a Metalcloak rear TB because it has about an extra inch of clearance, but it's still gonna be very close.





 
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