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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Radiator hose - lower

I didn't like how the lower radiator hose from the JSS BOM fit, so I made one. Basically a piece of 120 degree 2" 304 stainless tubing, a 2" dia. by 4" long silicone coupler, and a 45 degree 1.75" to 2" silicone adapter coupler. It fits great, no internal spring needed, probably won't get damaged by a random stick on the trail. The part numbers are in my worksheet.

I also used the "Jobber Do" bead tool for the hose retentions. What an awesome tool.









 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Wiring Harness

Like others have said in past swap threads, the harness is one of the simplest parts of the project. But just like everything else, the devil is in the details.

The harness from JSS / Hotwire Auto has a pretty basic connector for the starter solenoid. It looked like this:

22-18GA-Female-Disconnect-30011_f.png

The starter connection, however, clearly was designed to accept a specific connector with a built-in seal. I like being able to start the Jeep without it randomly refusing, so I found the correct connector kit and spliced it in, part number 05017122AB.

https://www.concord-parts.com/item/05017122AB/Chrysler

I also found some stand-off zip ties that can fix the fuel injector and coil plug wires just like the factory harness. They're Hellerman Tyton #T50ROSFT6S25SO. My injector and coil wiring is sexy as can be now LOL. And more importantly, no stress on the connectors at all. WIN

The harness bundle at the rear of the intake manifold is kind of a rat's nest, but each sub-bundle is completely covered in heat shrink tubing. Still, you'll want to take a careful look back there and make sure nothing looks like it will rub too much over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Oil Catch Can

With really no room anywhere else to put a catch can, I made a bracket to attach to the JSS dual battery tray. I'm running an Arrington catch can here; it has a couple of mounting holes available and the upper and lower hose connections can clock away from each other.



 

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Oil Catch Can

With really no room anywhere else to put a catch can, I made a bracket to attach to the JSS dual battery tray. I'm running an Arrington catch can here; it has a couple of mounting holes available and the upper and lower hose connections can clock away from each other.
Why do you need the catch can?

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Exhaust

When I tell my co-workers I'm working on the exhaust now, they say "ooo you're just about done!!" L.O.L. The running joke with them is that I only have a couple of months to go, and we've been saying that for about a year now lol.

I first tried an off-the-shelf ball & socket female side flange to connect up to the stock header flange. It didn't look like the simple metal-to-metal joint would seal very well; and I cooked the crap out of the first set of down tubes (and was using Solar Flux on the back of the welds instead of argon). So I found a couple sets of stock downtube flanges (in case one set becomes the "practice" set), cut and chiseled the original tubes out, and am now welding in some 304 stainless. Bolted the two extra flanges to the one being welded, and then clamped them in the middle with vise grips to minimize warping.

The stock downtube flanges have a recessed notch for an OEM graphite gasket; these should be more forgiving with warpage and still seal.

If you go this route, you'll need to get a hydraulic tubing expander. The flanges have an i.d. that the tubes slip into that is 3.300". Don't assume the 2.75" stock tubing is supposed to fit in those flanges, and buy a set of 2.75" to 3" adapter tubes like I did lol. 3" tubing expanded to 3.300". OR, just cut off the stock header flanges and go with Marman flanges. OR, fab a set of custom headers. OR, avoid this can of worms and just use the stock GC logs and a kit exhaust lol.

I will say though - the welding is quite fun.





 

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Are they a special order or something? All I see out there are headers for the JK-chevys...
Call them and ask for Jamie. They were building them for resale through Rubitrux.

They are only a couple miles from me. I can do some digging. Initially they were going to build a complete exhaust using my Jeep as a template. They didnt like the way the stock manifold were so tight to Todd's motor mount. I introduced them to Rubitrux and they went with them.

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This might be the second or third hemi swap thread with a manual transmission out here, so hopefully this will be useful to some of you out there who refuse to slushbox your hemi haha. I’ll try not to duplicate too much from other threads because if you’re seriously considering this project, you’ve probably already read and re-read all of the others (you know you have).

So why a hemi, why not LS? It all came down to the stick. LS engines are mostly limited to the NV4500 which some have said is a little truck-like, especially with its low 5.61:1 1st gear (stock NSG370 is possible, but you’d need a TJ bellhousing and the trans is fairly weak anyway). The Getrag 238 is geared similarly to the NSG, and even though their input torque rating (300 lb-ft) doesn’t inspire confidence behind a ~500 lb-ft hemi, I haven’t seen very many complaints about failures online.

Here’s a list of the things I did that you may not have seen before:
• Group 31 Odyssey battery, with Odyssey battery hold-down bracket kit
• 4/0 cables for the starter-to-battery, alternator-to-battery, and engine-to-battery ground
• Oil catch can
• 3.6 JK fan conversion (and mods to make it fit!)
• AEV snorkel (and DIY coolant reservoir)
• DIY lower radiator hose
• SRT / Hellcat exhaust manifolds
• True dual exhaust with x-pipe, Spintech 9000XL Super Pro Street mufflers

…And also some other mods:
• Teraflex 2WD Low TC conversion
• Rock Slide Engineering TC brace (modified for stock rear driveshaft)
• PSC pump, reservoir with large cooler

I’d recommend having a second driver while you’re working your swap. My project started in January 2017 with an engine purchase, the Jeep has been in the garage since February 2018, and as of late November I still have maybe another couple of months to finish the exhaust. I spent many hours doing other things, you know, while I had the access. Things like a front axle rebuild (new u-joints, added a truss, new unit bearings, added anti-flop tie rod joint caps), transfer case mods, hood vents, lots of diy mods etc. Although, if I didn’t have the second car, I probably would have finished it in a week or so haha. Choose your poison!


This sounds cool. I have saved several build threads I haven't had time to read thru & this sounds like a good one.

Fwiw: I'm a huge proponent & multiple item owner of the ( sadly, no longer produced / made / sold by anyone, presently ) Impulse Offroad TC brace for the NP241 that was sold by RockSlide Engineering. I've talked to impulse owner & he hadn't been aware of them dropping it ,& maybe presently looking for another means of marketing the brilliant little strengthener that I feel is so important.

Anyway, thanks for sharing this unique build !


 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
This sounds cool. I have saved several build threads I haven't had time to read thru & this sounds like a good one.



Fwiw: I'm a huge proponent & multiple item owner of the ( sadly, no longer produced / made / sold by anyone, presently ) Impulse Offroad TC brace for the NP241 that was sold by RockSlide Engineering. I've talked to impulse owner & he hadn't been aware of them dropping it ,& maybe presently looking for another means of marketing the brilliant little strengthener that I feel is so important.



Anyway, thanks for sharing this unique build !
Thank you sir. Always good to give back to the forum.

Here's my RSE TC brace - sneaked in the mods while waiting on parts. Not sure how the newer braces are packaged (bought this one directly from RSE in 2014), but the included fasteners were shitty grade 5 (whatever the metric equivalent is). I repurposed some extra class 10.9 bolts instead, because I really suck at extracting broken bolts lol. Also clearanced it for the stock DS - not sure how long until I upgrade to double cardan shafts. Also shaved the bottom to help with skid plate clearance. Still doesn't clear so I'm going to modify the skid.

The brace still looks plenty strong even with the trimming. They'd probably sell a lot more if they just made them this way.
 

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Are they a special order or something? All I see out there are headers for the JK-chevys...
I called Kooks for you today. The exhaust they built is for the 6.4L. It is labeled and made for RubiTrux which means you have to buy it from Rubitrux. It is a complete from the block all the way back setup...

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
I called Kooks for you today. The exhaust they built is for the 6.4L. It is labeled and made for RubiTrux which means you have to buy it from Rubitrux. It is a complete from the block all the way back setup...

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Good to know - thanks! I e-mailed Borla last year about their jk hemi exhaust; but they must be under some exclusive contract to Dakota Customs. I'll keep Rubitrux in mind in case my home-made exhaust blows up lol.

Forgot to mention - I don't think any of the current aftermarket JK hemi headers will fit around the G238 (esp. left side). Starter and bellhousing stick out quite a bit more than the autos. I also thought about getting a set of the headers from RPMFAB (who now own V8HJ) and see if they'd work; but they would have cost ~$100 to ship back. Hell I might try fabbing up my own set if the stock headers don't work out...
 

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Discussion Starter #39
How did your like the JT? What did you think about it? Now that I sold my JKU, I think that is my next build some time next year.

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If you don't need the breakover or departure angles, then I guess it's OK. Not a big fan of all the additional electrical/electronic gizmos. The doors and rear tailgate were surprisingly light (I mean I knew they went to aluminum, but wow they swung very easily and would definitely be much more pleasant to remove/install). Too bad they didn't make the removable stuff (tops, doors, bumpers and fenders) compatible with the JK. The designs are too similar to have changed them simply for looks.
 

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If you don't need the breakover or departure angles, then I guess it's OK. Not a big fan of all the additional electrical/electronic gizmos. The doors and rear tailgate were surprisingly light (I mean I knew they went to aluminum, but wow they swung very easily and would definitely be much more pleasant to remove/install). Too bad they didn't make the removable stuff (tops, doors, bumpers and fenders) compatible with the JK. The designs are too similar to have changed them simply for looks.
My thought is go straight to 37s. I do need the break over angles out here in NC. Some of the trails can also be tight, wheel base is also important.... cant wait to see 1 in person.

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