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OK, let's admit it, the horn leaves a lot to be desired. It's wimpy. Follow this guide and let your true emotions be heard when that jackass cuts you off.
Real estate under the hood is slim. I wanted to do a set of train horns :devil:, but space and cost put me off. A bit of research turned up the Stebel series of horns. The Nautilus Compact boasts 139dB(A weighted) at 4 inches, but more importantly 115db(A) at 2m (6.56 feet), all at 530Hz and 680Hz. Rather high pitched, but VERY FORCEFUL. This sucker is loud and commands attention. Found it on Ebay, buy it now for 33.95, 42.95 to my door.
Here's what you get. Horn, relay, mounting bolt and nut, and an air intake extension so you can route the intake somplace else.
Here's what you'll need electrically. Wire, I used 10ga for hot, 16ga for ground. I know, the ground is smaller than the hot, it's all I had laying around.
3 female 1/4" quick discos and 1 ring terminal for the hot side. 1 female 1/4" quick disco and 1 ring terminal for the ground.
Here's the additional mounting hardware you'll need. 1/4x20x.5 SS bolt ground down to about .450, mating nut and flat washer, and a small flat piece of metal. The piece of metal should have two holes drilled in it, .250 and .312. I used a piece of .040 2024-T3, .700 x I can't remember. Couple of inches I think, I just made it long enough to do the job.
Take the stock horn off. It's located behind the drivers headlamp. It takes a T20 and it's tight to get at. Refer to the red circle. After you get the screw out, unplug the two wires from the horn.
One is the switched hot, the other is ground. Again, can't remember the colors, but the ground is black. A stroke of luck here, the stock connectors will plug right into the relay so no changes are required.
Time to take off the grill. I think by now everybody knows how to do this. Jeep was generous enough to provide us with a mounting tab for the horn. I had marked where the solid portions of the grill were prior to removing it and by using this tab for mounting the horn it allows it to sound out through one of the open slots. BTW, use the tab on the pass side.
Mount the bracket you made (you did make it, right?) to the horn using the bolt and nut that came with the horn. I used loctite here.
Now mount the horn to the tab using the 1/4x20 hardware. I put the bracket behind the tab to hide it. If you can't get the bolt between the radiator and the tab, grind a bit more off the length. It's a pain getting all this together.
I used loctite here, no room for a lock washer. If you make the bracket longer it would be easier to assemble. Be careful tightening the hardware, don't damage the radiator.
Time to wire it. Locate the body ground between the power steering reservoir and the airbox. This is where I grounded the horn. Measure off a length of ground wire, crimp a ring on one end, 1/4" QD female on the other. Bolt the ring to the ground, route the wire to the horn and plug it in on the left terminal of the horn.
Standard Disclaimer
You may screw up your electrical system doing this. Proceed at your own risk. Disconnect the battery before attempting.
Real estate under the hood is slim. I wanted to do a set of train horns :devil:, but space and cost put me off. A bit of research turned up the Stebel series of horns. The Nautilus Compact boasts 139dB(A weighted) at 4 inches, but more importantly 115db(A) at 2m (6.56 feet), all at 530Hz and 680Hz. Rather high pitched, but VERY FORCEFUL. This sucker is loud and commands attention. Found it on Ebay, buy it now for 33.95, 42.95 to my door.
Here's what you get. Horn, relay, mounting bolt and nut, and an air intake extension so you can route the intake somplace else.

Here's what you'll need electrically. Wire, I used 10ga for hot, 16ga for ground. I know, the ground is smaller than the hot, it's all I had laying around.
3 female 1/4" quick discos and 1 ring terminal for the hot side. 1 female 1/4" quick disco and 1 ring terminal for the ground.

Here's the additional mounting hardware you'll need. 1/4x20x.5 SS bolt ground down to about .450, mating nut and flat washer, and a small flat piece of metal. The piece of metal should have two holes drilled in it, .250 and .312. I used a piece of .040 2024-T3, .700 x I can't remember. Couple of inches I think, I just made it long enough to do the job.

Take the stock horn off. It's located behind the drivers headlamp. It takes a T20 and it's tight to get at. Refer to the red circle. After you get the screw out, unplug the two wires from the horn.
One is the switched hot, the other is ground. Again, can't remember the colors, but the ground is black. A stroke of luck here, the stock connectors will plug right into the relay so no changes are required.

Time to take off the grill. I think by now everybody knows how to do this. Jeep was generous enough to provide us with a mounting tab for the horn. I had marked where the solid portions of the grill were prior to removing it and by using this tab for mounting the horn it allows it to sound out through one of the open slots. BTW, use the tab on the pass side.

Mount the bracket you made (you did make it, right?) to the horn using the bolt and nut that came with the horn. I used loctite here.

Now mount the horn to the tab using the 1/4x20 hardware. I put the bracket behind the tab to hide it. If you can't get the bolt between the radiator and the tab, grind a bit more off the length. It's a pain getting all this together.
I used loctite here, no room for a lock washer. If you make the bracket longer it would be easier to assemble. Be careful tightening the hardware, don't damage the radiator.

Time to wire it. Locate the body ground between the power steering reservoir and the airbox. This is where I grounded the horn. Measure off a length of ground wire, crimp a ring on one end, 1/4" QD female on the other. Bolt the ring to the ground, route the wire to the horn and plug it in on the left terminal of the horn.

