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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to start a new thread because my question is leading down a different path than the Spyntec thread.

I'm in the process of finishing the build on my front axle, and have almost all the parts ready to go once I get the housing back from my buddy who's doing the cut & turn. Probably going to tackle this in early July once I'm back from the 3,000 mile family roadtrip/summer vacation, just to keep marital tranquility in the house in the event something doesn't go right the first time. :shitstorm:

I was researching Reid knuckles as my final purchase, having chosen against the Spyntech conversion last night for cost, parts availability, and some reliability questions.

Then it hit me: why not go at this a different way? Get a D44 knuckle for a Ford like this one, and put Ford brakes/hubs/etc on it? Oh yeah - the speed sensor.

Back in the CJ days I had a 40-tooth reluctor ring machined & machined/ Tig Welded a boss into the tailshaft of a Dana 300 to allow an EFI computer to be happy. I'm wondering if there's a way to do that on the JK, have a couple spare rings made, and use factory JK ABS wheel speed sensors?

Has anyone looked into this? You'd get lockout hubs, 90% factory parts (100% on all the critical ones like hubs, lockouts, bearings, spindles & seals). It shouldn't be more than a few hundred $$ more than the factory Ford parts to get it done.

I'd need to get my hands on the knuckles-out assembly to see how feasible it would be. Has anyone gone down this path & ruled it out? Search turned up nothing.
 

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To me it wouldn't be worth it because I would gain zero strength for all the money I put in it, just lockout hubs. Before I decided on Reid's, rcv's, and arb I was going to do a 44/60 hybrid with 99-04 ford 60 tubes. That would have gave me hubs and strength, but the cost/effort didn't add up to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's definitely not a strength play. It's the lockouts. If there is a path, it could also be a cost savings for big brake upgrade, but I don't know that yet. There will be a cost increase for the machining work, but that's a one-time charge. Other than the tone rings, the cost should be close to a wash. Knuckles are what they are. Spindles & Bearings & Hubs are a little more than unit bearings, but you're buying lockouts. Axles are what they are.

I'm an old school Jeeper as you know. It took me a while before I could accept a minivan motor & plastic dashboard as a Jeep. I'd at least love to have my lockouts back, but not at the expense of reliability or parts availability.
 

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It would have been nice if Jeep had decided to use standard Dana 44 inner-C's, balljoints, and knuckles instead of the proprietary parts on the JK. That's why you can't just swap a standard Dana 44 knuckle onto a JK axle.

If you wanted to go this route, you'd have to get some traditional Dana 44 inner-C's. I think Dynatrac makes some of those end forgings. Then you could use standard Chevy, Ford, Fullsize Jeep, or Scout knuckles, and then you'd just have to figure out the reluctor ring and the different wheel lug pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Swapping inner C's is easy - we're doing a cut & turn now. The reluctor ring and sensor placement may be the deal breaker.


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I thought about it to. But after all the work and coin going into the 44 you will still have 30/19 spline outers. I have the spin tech conversion and love it. Parts are easy to get. It uses 79-86 cj7 rotors. The hubs have the tone ring pressed on it and a nice water tight seal around it. Mantaince is not bad. Had mine for a year on 37's and now 40's with no issues and all the bears look new with abiut 5k on them. Its about the correct preload on everything. Just remember simple is better. By going a d44/d60 hybrid you are going to have to run custom shafts possibly. Which can be costly if you need a spare. But it would still be cool to see if it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you have stock cross-reference PN's for most of the parts? Glad you're happy - some are, some are mixed & some are heck no. For a small sample size of less than a dozen folks on this board, that's pretty mixed overall, dontcha think?
 

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Do you have stock cross-reference PN's for most of the parts? Glad you're happy - some are, some are mixed & some are heck no. For a small sample size of less than a dozen folks on this board, that's pretty mixed overall, dontcha think?
Yes there are a very few of us running it, but if its design is all based off the original D44 and uses all the same bearings, seals, rotors, and outer axle shaft the only really thing that is custom is the spindle and hub. Warn makes the 30 spline locking hub. I have all the part numbers if you want them. On the rotors you have to bore them out a little but is very easy to do. Must people that don't like it is because they dont want to get thier hands dirty to maintain them once a year. Its A Jeep! You still have to lube all the steering , control arms. Change the fluids. Also the bearing failures all have to do with installing them wrong. Not enough preload or too much. They dont line up the spindle washer with the pin that is on the spindle nut. Its all on how you use your jeep and do you want the maintain it. Me I will taje more maintance for better gass mileage. Less wear on tear on my front end. Better handling. Reliability is there if installed correctly. And if you break an outer shaft you can still run your rig without worring about the hub assembly coming apart. If it was a bad design I am sure solid industries wouldn't make it. The only thing I have left on my d44 is the buy reid knuckels. It has all the goods and is no question stronger than a stock d60. Even got the better bolt patteren go from 5on5 to 5on5.5
 

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my plan was oem ford length chromo shafts. i have a 35 spline arb, and would have widened the axle tubes to match the ford axleshafts for this reason.
The only way you benifit going to a 35 spkine front is if you did d60 outer knuckels and inner c's. Other wise you will only be able to run 30 spline/19spline outer and wouldn't getting any more strength out of it.
 

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The only way you benifit going to a 35 spkine front is if you did d60 outer knuckels and inner c's. Other wise you will only be able to run 30 spline/19spline outer and wouldn't getting any more strength out of it.
To me it wouldn't be worth it because I would gain zero strength for all the money I put in it, just lockout hubs. Before I decided on Reid's, rcv's, and arb I was going to do a 44/60 hybrid with 99-04 ford 60 tubes. That would have gave me hubs and strength, but the cost/effort didn't add up to me.
i agree
 
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