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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to buy some Cibie 7" H4 E-Code Lamps to upgrade my JK. I was going to order them from Daniel Stern Lighting, but after replying to my initial email he hasn't responded to my follow-up message or phone calls.

I've searched high and low and can't find anyone else selling Cibie's. Plenty of Hella H4's in either DOT or E-Code, but I understand that the Cibies are better. If I'm going to spend $200+ to replace the lamps, bulbs and wiring, I don't want to have to settle for second best.

Any suggestions?
 

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agree with above. He's a great guy to talk to, very knowlegable. I'm sure he's out on vacation or something, I just emailed him and got a response about a week ago.

I've done the CIBIE upgrade, worth every penny.
 

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Anything ecode is going to very close. Tuv testing and standards are way better than ours obviously. I have the cebies and if I were to do it again I would hop on eBay and find two ecode rx7 lights or Hella whatever I could find in 7" it doesn't matter as the housing mounting tabs are the same and like I said there is not much difference. I've had the Hella ecodes and the valeo cebies that I have now and the cut off is the same. But with ecode 7" housings, 65/85 bulbs and a pair of male H13 to H4 female pigtails it all could be done for less than 75 bucks. Another guy I helped go this route and he was very happy with the outcome. Good luck in either way you go, and the relay kits that are plug and play are waaaaY the he'll cheaper on eBay as well if you up the wattage to the point you need relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
:beer::beer::beer:! Just ordered a pair of the Bosch H4 E-Codes for $99.83 including S&H.

I honestly don't know what's up with Daniel Stern. I sent him and email over a month ago, he sent a reply but didn't answer all my questions, then I sent him three more emails and left two voicemails with follow-up questions and he never replied. So two days ago I sent an email from another account and a day later he replied to that (same boilerplate response as before) within 24 hours, but STILL didn't answer my questions or any of my other email/voicemail.:thefinger:

Glad I found an alternate source and saved money to boot.
 

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:beer::beer::beer:! Just ordered a pair of the Bosch H4 E-Codes for $99.83 including S&H.

I honestly don't know what's up with Daniel Stern. I sent him and email over a month ago, he sent a reply but didn't answer all my questions, then I sent him three more emails and left two voicemails with follow-up questions and he never replied. So two days ago I sent an email from another account and a day later he replied to that (same boilerplate response as before) within 24 hours, but STILL didn't answer my questions or any of my other email/voicemail.:thefinger:

Glad I found an alternate source and saved money to boot.
He's not answering my emails either. No one else in the world sells these headlights, apparently. How did the Bosch work for you?
 

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He's not answering my emails either. No one else in the world sells these headlights, apparently. How did the Bosch work for you?
Well, I have bought the E-code lenses from Daniel twice, once as a pair and once as a single to replace a rock damaged one. I take it he imports these as required and sometimes it takes awhile. I don't know what his day job is, but I have to agree on the emails, his silence is deafening. I did get mine though (the single one yesterday! Only about two weeks of wondering....)

The first time I also bought the Osram H4 bulbs and those lasted only about a year. I won't buy those again, they BOTH failed within a day of each other. Replaced them with Silverstars but was never happy with the light output (ok, but not like the Osram. Of course they were only 65/55 versus the 85/65 of the Osrams but still....) I replaced the Silverstars with 55 watt bi-xenon HID lights and all I can say is WOW!

http://www.retrosolutionsllc.com/servlet/the-173/DIGITAL-HID-XENON-CONVERSION/Detail
 

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I've dealt with Daniel Stern on a dozen or so purchases for 4 Jeeps over the past 6 years and never had a problem. He's a little slow to respond sometimes, but it's always for a legitimate reason (vacation, family illness, etc). Be patient and he'll respond. Your e-mail may be spam blocked and he's not getting it. Try a different e-mail address, if you have one, preferably from a private domain (i.e. not gmail or yahoo).

I purchased the Wipac (British) headlights with wiring harness for my JK and love them. They are similar to the Cibie's but have a deflector hood on the bulb to reduce glare in wet or foggy conditions. The Marchal's were too expensive and didn't offer any improvement in performance. In fact, I'm about to purchase some yellow fog light Oscars from him. I'll mention you to him if I get a hold of him before you do.
 

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I finally got a response from him, he is and has been going through something family and medical wise for a while apparently, I did not pry or push as was none of my business. He did give me all of his contact info, phone, cell ect. If anyone needs it badly enough pm me and I will give it but I don't want to publicly post it as he does not have them posted on his site and ask others to respect this if I do need to give it to any one.

One of my osrams went out and I installed a autozone replacement, way more yellow. I like the white from the osrams.
 

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After seeing all the good posts here, I emailed him again. I got a response in about 10 minutes, and now have a set of cibies/osrams enroute to Raeford! :bounce: Is there anything special/handy to know about putting them in? There will be a new harness, of course, but can someone with little wiring experience handle it?
 

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If you are fairly comfortable with wiring you will be fine. Daniel sales a build your own harness kit that includes the plugs, relays, and sockets that makes the build much easier and is well worth the money.
 

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I did this light upgrade to mine and all I can say is that it is great. It is a huge improvement in every way. I did not use the Ostram bulbs, but instead went cheap and bought a pair of the G.E. OEM replacement H4's that Wal-Mart sells and they work excellent. Given the chance I would definetly do that upgrade again.
 

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go with the rallylight . c o m setup with the hella 100w bulbs (bulbs have 1 year guarentee).

hugeeeee difference and well worth the money...night and day difference from stock...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
He's not answering my emails either. No one else in the world sells these headlights, apparently. How did the Bosch work for you?
The Bosch's are an amazing upgrade. The units I got are motorcycle headlamps, but I see no ill effects from using them on the Jeep. Lots of nice, bright, pure-white light in a great beam pattern, and I haven't gotten flashed at all for glare. I'm running Phillips Xtreme H4 bulbs and built my own wiring harness. You definitely want the to replace the wiring; I tried just tying H4 sockets into the OEM wiring and the result was a dim, yellowish beam.

Aiming the lights is a bit of a challenge. I used a couple of washers under the outside of the driver's side retaining ring to bring that side's light a little more to center. Also, be careful when screwing in the retaining rings -- I stripped two of the holes on the plastic base and had to use longer screws to get things properly tightened down.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After seeing all the good posts here, I emailed him again. I got a response in about 10 minutes, and now have a set of cibies/osrams enroute to Raeford! :bounce: Is there anything special/handy to know about putting them in? There will be a new harness, of course, but can someone with little wiring experience handle it?
Just remember to put a capacitor and diode across the trigger inputs of your relay to filter out the computer's PWM noise and avoid back-surge when the relay coil de-energizes.

Pick your high/low beam trigger for the relays off the passenger-side stock wiring. I soldered and used marine-grade heat shrink tubing for watertight connections (has heat-activated sealer inside).

Chassis ground screw points are available near each headlamp location, so you can keep wire distance to a minimum by running a separate ground to each headlamp.

I used 14AWG wiring. I would have gone with 12AWG but both the relay sockets and H4 sockets I bought had 14AWG, so there didn't seem to be any point to going with heavier wire in between.

When aiming you can adjust the horizontal aim by using one or more washers under the retaining ring opposite the direction you need to go.
 

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The Bosch's are an amazing upgrade. The units I got are motorcycle headlamps, but I see no ill effects from using them on the Jeep. Lots of nice, bright, pure-white light in a great beam pattern, and I haven't gotten flashed at all for glare. I'm running Phillips Xtreme H4 bulbs and built my own wiring harness. You definitely want the to replace the wiring; I tried just tying H4 sockets into the OEM wiring and the result was a dim, yellowish beam.

Aiming the lights is a bit of a challenge. I used a couple of washers under the outside of the driver's side retaining ring to bring that side's light a little more to center. Also, be careful when screwing in the retaining rings -- I stripped two of the holes on the plastic base and had to use longer screws to get things properly tightened down.
I see the ill effects from using m/c headlamps. You are having to shim the lights. That's the diff in the beam pattern between m/c lights and car lights.
 

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Just remember to put a capacitor and diode across the trigger inputs of your relay to filter out the computer's PWM noise and avoid back-surge when the relay coil de-energizes.

Pick your high/low beam trigger for the relays off the passenger-side stock wiring. I soldered and used marine-grade heat shrink tubing for watertight connections (has heat-activated sealer inside).

Chassis ground screw points are available near each headlamp location, so you can keep wire distance to a minimum by running a separate ground to each headlamp.

I used 14AWG wiring. I would have gone with 12AWG but both the relay sockets and H4 sockets I bought had 14AWG, so there didn't seem to be any point to going with heavier wire in between.

When aiming you can adjust the horizontal aim by using one or more washers under the retaining ring opposite the direction you need to go.
Actually it's better to run separate grounds to the battery. Remember the return path to the battery is just as important.
 

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:bounce: Big Brown and Fedex brought my lights and harness today. After looking at the harness set-up like an ape looking at a coke bottle, I'm really glad I ordered it instead of trying to build one. This thing looks nice with capacitor thingys and fuse blocks and relays... all the stuff you guys mentioned. I'll do a write up Saturday.
 
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