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Here some info other may find helpful when changing your spark plugs.

I pulled all the plugs today on my 2011 JK. It has just under 33K on the motor. Wow. The gap was close to .070 on most and a couple were even higher. The driver side was a breeze to remove with just a long extention and 3/8" breaker bar. I wish the factory would learn to use never seize or some sort of thread coating. It felt like the plugs were installed with an air impact gun. The plugs all came off very easy by first twisting the boot around the plug and then pulling straight back.

The passenger side of course was little more challenging. The middle plug was the most troublesome, but I found that a long spark plug socket, about 4 inches in length was the ticket. The end of the socket had a 3/4" nut and placing a twelve point closed end wrench on the nut provided an easy way to loosen and remove the middle plug. No swivel sockets needed. The other two were easily removed. In fact I think the right rear plug might have been easier than the front right plug.

For access to the passenger side plugs, I perched myself on the right fender and reached down into the engine area.

I think the longer spark plug sockets were marketed a few years back for V-6 GM Vortec engines. I had one from previously owning a V-6 Chevy pickup that required the longer socket for the plugs.

I regapped the plugs to .050 and what a difference the engine has in throttle response. I will change out the plugs at 45K. I mainly just pulled them today to see the condition of the plugs since leaving the factory.

While the manual may say the plugs last up to 100K, the gap sure doesn't, especially on a manual transmission vehicle. On my 2011 Street Glide the plugs get toss every 10K, even though the MOCO says you can go 50K on a stock set of plugs.
 

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100k on a spark plug is just bull shit. I change the plugs in my Electra Glide every year, the heat and idling for long periods of time kill the plugs.
 

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Is their a write up on how to change em out, and what plugs specifically to get?

I have never even checked nonetheless changed my or any spark plugs before and am interested in learning. Thanks
 

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Pulling the inner fender on the passenger side makes the job easier. I don't think I'd ever pull an entire set to just regap old plugs though. :cwm13:
 

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100k on a spark plug is just bull shit. I change the plugs in my Electra Glide every year, the heat and idling for long periods of time kill the plugs.
Well the plugs are platinum 100k mile plugs. And if they fail before then, the PCM will tell you fairly quick when a misfire occurs. The computers are pretty picky now a days & it doesn't take much for it to find a misfire.
 

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Does anyone have a write up on how to change out jK spark plugs?

I have never done it before on any vehicle and would like to have some semblence of an idea as to what to do beforehand. Thanks
 

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They're pretty basic other than how you manipulate your tools to get the plugs out. As mentioned, the inner fender on the passenger's side helps a bunch. Don't mix up the plug wires. Run the plugs down by hand as far as you can then +1/4 turn with a ratchet is a fair estimate for torque.
 

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Not worth it to change it out yourself, did mine and broke a spark plug which left the broken piece into the block, luckily it did not drop into the cylinder hear.
Finally, I got it towed to a shop and the heat up the block and pull the broken spark plug from the engine block. Dude it cost like 60 bucks for someone to do it, and if they F it up..they fix it...dont forget the anti sieze.
 

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Not worth it to change it out yourself, did mine and broke a spark plug which left the broken piece into the block, luckily it did not drop into the cylinder hear.
Finally, I got it towed to a shop and the heat up the block and pull the broken spark plug from the engine block. Dude it cost like 60 bucks for someone to do it, and if they F it up..they fix it...dont forget the anti sieze.
I've changed probably over 100 plugs without messing any up. I've watched people break them though...it's not a difficult job in a Wrangler, almost hard to screw up. A V12 BMW on the other hand...that's a different story.:cwm13:
 

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Not worth it to change it out yourself, did mine and broke a spark plug which left the broken piece into the block, luckily it did not drop into the cylinder hear.
Finally, I got it towed to a shop and the heat up the block and pull the broken spark plug from the engine block. Dude it cost like 60 bucks for someone to do it, and if they F it up..they fix it...dont forget the anti sieze.
How would the broken plug fall into the cylinder head? It's threaded into the head...
 

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Porcelain piece coulda dropped in the cylinder head, luckily I turned the engine on and the piece blew up and out. Shop just had to remove the metal thread casing, coulda been lot worse or a new hemi! :thefinger:
 

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i replaced mine at 20K miles and it made a noticeable difference in performance. It felt like it had a little bit more pick up and smoother idle.
I used NGK Lazer Platinum
 

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replaced mine last week after 115,000 kms some were gapped at .060 as the electrodes were pretty worn down

I took out the inner fender liner on the pass side and made the job go easier on the middle and rear most plugs

also I just replaced them with the same Champion ones from the factory

even with this many kms on them, they came out rather easy, although 2 were pretty tight, and the whole job was about 1/2 hour
 

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I have been working on mine tonight. I was able to take the passenger side front two off pretty easy. All the others were on seriously tight. I had to get a 10in extention, plus two 3in extentions to extend the torque wrench far enough out of the engine bay so I could get enough leverage to twist them lose.

I still can't get the passenger side rear off. My knuckles are banged all to h*** and wrist is scratched all up from that one. I'll try again tomorrow. I think all I need is a swivle attachment. But like the others; its on so tight I am going to need lots of leverage to break it lose. Whoever put these things on at the factory sucks!:pissed:

Also I used OEM Champion replacements.

Next time they should take no longer then 10 or 15 minutes to swap put since they will all be hand tight, especially the passenger side.
 

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im screwed - i changed mine early due to a rough idle to ngks. turns out the middle one on the drivers side was cross threaded from the factory. took about 10 minutes to carefully thread the new plug in. not looking forward to pulling that one out. might just make the dealer do it when those start going bad.
 

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I finished this operation a couple of weeks ago. My wires were very tight, but all let go eventually.

Driver's side was easy and didn't take long, but passenger side was another story. Just have to be patient. I used a soft knee thingy I've used in the yard on the bumper and pretty much layed on the radiator area. The engine was not hot so I reached down there to get an idea of the angle and where stuff was that I couldn't see. Then SLOWLY started the new plugs by hand. Once I felt them take the threads then I finished with ratchet.

I did pop off a hose from the left side of the intake if I remember correctly. Gave me some extra access. Came off easy and went back on easy.

I put anti-seize on all threads and that electrical grease on the top contacts. I intend to be doing this regularly and don't want to fight it every time.

Overall took some time but if you've done it on any newer car it's not that bad. I could probably do it in half the time next round.
 

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Unless I missed it, I haven't seen mentioned in this thread about the importance of blowing the spark plug base with air to remove any dirt or worse yet any buildup of mud from the mud rangers. Just sayin'.:thankyou:
 
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