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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Im officially starting on my one ton build.... I bought these axles a year or so ago but finally started working on them....

The front d60 is from a 94 f-350 the rear 14 bolt FF is from a 96-97 GM . I'm gonna have 67.25 WMS . And 8x6.5 lug pattern

Drivetrain- plans are 5.38's , detroits. Gonna run stock shafts tell they break.

Suspension- im planning on running rock krawler tripple threat long arm. Gonna stretch the rear a few inches back.

Wheels- Plans as of now are to recenter some military h1 wheels. Gonna shoot for some 39.5" - 41.5" rockers or iroks.

Other doodads will be hydro assist , home build some high mount tube fenders. And probably more I'm forgetting....

When I bought these axles last year I cleaned them up a bit and set them off in corner. As of last week I purchased an assortment of brackets and tacked some of them up. As for the rear i need to purchase some offset coil perches and track bar bracket as well. This will be a slow build so bare with me. Gotta say thanks to Co4Lo. Blkrubion40's and red08x for all the info and pictures , I know I bugged y'all quiet a bit.... Enough talk here are the pictures of what I've got done.










And more recently







And one of my helper



I'll get the 14 set up soon and tacked , new welder will be in Wednesday and then I'll get to burning them on .

As for the for the driver LCA plans are to arc weld them with ni55 rod.... I'm a little nervous but will see.

If anyone's got any advice please post up , I'm learning as I go!
 

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V8 in a JK

We have been testing 14 bolt rear ends and found most of them to have 5/16 thick axle tubes and some have welds going down the tube inside.
 

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Looks like your off to a good start man. I almost did a 14 bolt but ended up going with a currie ff 60 low pinion. Are you planning on shaving it? Also what brand brackets are those I like the adj trac bar mounting locations kinda looks like currie? I'll be keeping up with this build!

Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
 

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badass mang! When you're done, we're gonna want you to come down to SA and give tips, pointers, and help with ours. I can see this in Sascha's future sooner or later. Me too when the wife finds a better job now that she finished school.

btw, we missed ya at HF last weekend. THought I was gonna be able to see all the work you've done.
 

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I've test weled a piece of steel to cast using a nickel rod with a arc and it held strong. I tried to beat it off with a sledge hammer and all it did was bend the 1/4" steel I welded to it. And this was without heating the cast up.

Use the right rod, preheat the cast and it will be just fine.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We have been testing 14 bolt rear ends and found most of them to have 5/16 thick axle tubes and some have welds going down the tube inside.
gracias!

are you going to weld your driver side control arm to the cast iron housing?
Yep. gonna pre and post heat like crazy and Nic55 rod. Probably gonna copy Co4lo and connect to something else like a truss....

Looks like your off to a good start man. I almost did a 14 bolt but ended up going with a currie ff 60 low pinion. Are you planning on shaving it? Also what brand brackets are those I like the adj trac bar mounting locations kinda looks like currie? I'll be keeping up with this build!

Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk
I meant to post that up I went with Poly performance on those brackets but will be purchasing the offset coil perches for the rear from Ruffstuff or RK.

The PP fit perfect on the front no trimming and I liked the adjustable trackbar bracket as well, its even got a bracket for hydro assist. Also it was considerably cheaper to buy them all individually rather than a whole batch at 400.00 a set, seeing a few of the brackets wouldnt be used....

badass mang! When you're done, we're gonna want you to come down to SA and give tips, pointers, and help with ours. I can see this in Sascha's future sooner or later. Me too when the wife finds a better job now that she finished school.

btw, we missed ya at HF last weekend. THought I was gonna be able to see all the work you've done.
Hell ya man! I know the feeling on the fund-age$$, the wifes taking class to go back to school.... and I had a scare of skin cancer a few months back.... but now all i have is time off until i go back to flying....I hoping to make a trip up there to go wheeling its been to long, nothing but sand around here!

I've test weled a piece of steel to cast using a nickel rod with a arc and it held strong. I tried to beat it off with a sledge hammer and all it did was bend the 1/4" steel I welded to it. And this was without heating the cast up.

Use the right rod, preheat the cast and it will be just fine.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
Great info! I appreciate it, from the research ive done the Tensile strength of the NI55 weld alone is stronger than the 3/16 steel. Ill be heating, pinging and watching it closely.... its my DD and i sure hell dont wont this falling off while going 65 down the highway:shitstorm:
 

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Poly makes good stuff man, you cant go wrong with them. I love custom jk builds like this, redx08 is a buddy of mine we stay about 5 miles from each other and everytime i see his jeep i drool over it. Are you planning to have tone rings machined into your hubs to keep the speedo working?

Is that front 60 a unit bearing or spindle design? Or can it be either? 35 spline inner and outter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Poly makes good stuff man, you cant go wrong with them. I love custom jk builds like this, redx08 is a buddy of mine we stay about 5 miles from each other and everytime i see his jeep i drool over it. Are you planning to have tone rings machined into your hubs to keep the speedo working?

Is that front 60 a unit bearing or spindle design? Or can it be either? 35 spline inner and outter?


Ya hes got a badass Jk . Plans are to run 1 tone ring in the back and splice them all into it. (IM A CHEAP ASS!!!!) The 60 i i have does not have tone rings stock. Its 35 spline inner but the stub shafts are the dinkers that neck down. Ill probably wheel with them until they break, or I may upgrade them if thew $$ is right.
 

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Summit has mile marker hubs on sale right now. It's the last day of sale so u will have to order today to get them for 87.50 shipped If u need some lock outs.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 

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I take it the driver's side spring perch is resting on the factory leaf spring pad? How is the spring going to line up with the upper spring mount (frame)? Will you need to run the upper spring mount further outboard?

I have the exact same axle, out of a 95, and was under the impression running coils would be a very big PITA. Doesn't look like it is with what you posted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Call marcus at RCO im pretty sure he can get you some dynatrac tone rings for the rear
Thats who ill be calling when its time for some parts!

this is where I got mine. Looking good man, keep up the work.
Thank you!:thankyou:

I take it the driver's side spring perch is resting on the factory leaf spring pad? How is the spring going to line up with the upper spring mount (frame)? Will you need to run the upper spring mount further outboard?

I have the exact same axle, out of a 95, and was under the impression running coils would be a very big PITA. Doesn't look like it is with what you posted...
The coils actually fit perfect, oddly enough the Jk stock axles tubes and center section are about 3/4" wider than the 60. The C's and knuckles are what make it wider. So what I did was I took PP heavy duty axle bracket directions and then just subtracted 3/8" from all of there measurements.... The only one that are not stock specs are the LCA which I went outward about and 1"... I decide not to trim the cast like some have done just because of mix reviews. Its hard to know what is right or wrong. My caster is sitting at -6 which is stock for ford and the pinion angle i believe was 3 degrees, maybe a touch high since im running a pretty LCOG.
 

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Wow, this is great news! Thanks for the heads up! Trying to be budget minded, didn't want the added cost of $700 for air shocks if I could re-use my coils and shocks.

I guess you take PP's directions and jig the axle to the set degree and start tacking all brackets in to their set degree but subtract 3/8" on all brackets except the LCAs. That sounds simple enough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow, this is great news! Thanks for the heads up! Trying to be budget minded, didn't want the added cost of $700 for air shocks if I could re-use my coils and shocks.

I guess you take PP's directions and jig the axle to the set degree and start tacking all brackets in to their set degree but subtract 3/8" on all brackets except the LCAs. That sounds simple enough...
No prob im probably one of the cheapest guys on here....Ill pay for the tools but not the parts..... But I see no problems what so ever in the coils, I had figured I would have issues until I spoke to blkrubion40's and he built it the same way with no prob.

As for the PP's directions it worked great. Make sure on measurements dont just take my word on it.... I hate for each to vary a few inches but in my case it worked great, all the measurements are made off the machined side of the C's that are welded to the tube. So I first had to figure out the total length of both axles and then thats how I figured the 60's measurable area was 3/4 " shorter total.... so 3/8" off each sides measurements. Also another thing that works out great is the coil perch is perfect height to cut flat on the side that sits on the old leaf perch. So theres no worries about it sitting higher or anything weird.
 
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