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Discussion Starter #1
I have a chance to get aftermarket control arms (front lower) at a bargain price. This appeals to me because they're much more solid and have heim joints. They're 23 inches bolt to bolt. I measured the stock ones and they're the same, it appears.

I called the manufacturer and asked about them by part number. They said it's the arms that come with the 4" kit. I have a total of 3" lift in the front (2.5" coil and .5" spacer). That was the first thing I thought was strange....that these came with a 4" kit but were the same length as my stock ones. Then he said he wasn't sure if they'd work because even though they are same length, it could still change pinion angle. Can someone explain how that's possible? Forgive me if it seems an ignorant question but when ya don't know....ya just don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks...but didn't answer my question. I don't have adjustable now. These are just beefier and use heim joints and are VERY well priced. Even if I decide I want adjustable later, I'm not out enough $ to be concerned.

Again, anyone with an answer to the question? I welcome opinions but would love an answer to the question, as well. Thanks.
 

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Which kit do they come out of?
And i say go for it.
It cant hurt.
 

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To answer your question, the design of the 4 link with the stock length arms will change pinnion angle because of how it responds to the additional angles induced by the lift.

If you use a stock length arm, then lift it 4", the caster would be off.

Usually we do longer arms when fixed. Only a short bit.
Check out our chart at the bottom of this link:

LINK




Although Im not sure how this arm you speaking of has a heim joint. Typically they have a threaded shank.
If it has a spherical bearing welded to the end, thats a different story. I wouldnt use either for something daily driven, lightly wheeled.
Having a bushing or Poly based joint like a Johnny Joint makes a huge difference in road feedback & ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thean....thanks a bunch!! To clarify it is a johnny joint. Lesson learned.

My jeep is currently 2.5" coils and 1/2" spacer in front. This is with stock arms. I'm JUST replacing the arms....not adding any additional lift. Therefore, 23" arms for 23" arms shouldn't change anything, right?

Thanks again for responses.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry for delay. They're pro comp. I know some products they make are frowned upon but for the price I paid, I'm not worried about it. New bushing/hardware kit included I'm still into them for less than $100. They're MUCH beefier than stock. Hopefully it works out. If not, not a big deal.
 

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FWIW, the length of stock control arms are 18 3/4" upper, 22 5/8" lower. They're using a pretty well recognized standard length of 23", which combined with stock uppers should get your caster in the ballpark.

If you check around the manufacturers' differ on what the best lengths are for the front arms. Poly's specs seem to be closest to the optimum at 18 3/4" upper, 23 1/4" lower. This gives quite a bit of caster, 5 degrees +, and may not work if you haven't corrected the pinion angle on your housing. A certain (flaming) idiot over on a certain other forum we don't mention around here uses 18 7/8" upper and 23" lower. Grudgingly giving credit where due, he seems to have gotten onto something. I used those specs on a club member's problem child rig and they did work great.

I've mentioned this before but to regurgitate it again, Teraflex for some reason has sec'd some wacky control arm lengths in their instructions, like 19 1/2" upper, 24" lower, with a lower stagger left & right. For a host of reasons, bad handling, component interference, etc. they just don't work and are best avoided. To use the shorter spec with TF's upper arms you have to use the inner mounting holes on the upper arms. Cut off the outer part of the arm or you'll have housing and locker plug interference issues.
 
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