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Well guys just got done installing the Ruffstuff 1 ton tie rod on my 2012 sport. Just thought i would share with you guys that i DID infact have to drill out my knuckles and use the inserts for the TRE to fit correctly. At first we didnt drill them or try to ream them and it fit enough to use safety wire through the hole of the TRE to secure the castle nut. I wasnt happy with it so instead of buying an expensive reamer ( i know it was prolly the better way to do it though) , i used a 7/8 drill bit and went slow using cutting oil and it worked out great. for 135$ you cant beat it. Have fun modding my friends. :beer:
 

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I have it. I didn't ream it. It works fine for no ream. I accidentally supported the front of the jk on the tie rod. No problem. It flexed but that's it. That is one stuff bar. Clearance is a-1. No problem clearing the diff cover and I run solid axle diff covers. The only thing I don't like is welding the bungs in. I think if I were to do it again I would get a treaded 1.25" dom tubing that is available out there. I had the Dom tubing and bungs tig welded by a ticketed welder. So far so good. It is strong. Live the offset gm 1 ton offset tre's.

Very nice and worth the price IMO.
 

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I have it. I didn't ream it. It works fine for no ream. I accidentally supported the front of the jk on the tie rod. No problem. It flexed but that's it. That is one stuff bar. Clearance is a-1. No problem clearing the diff cover and I run solid axle diff covers. The only thing I don't like is welding the bungs in. I think if I were to do it again I would get a treaded 1.25" dom tubing that is available out there. I had the Dom tubing and bungs tig welded by a ticketed welder. So far so good. It is strong. Live the offset gm 1 ton offset tre's.

Very nice and worth the price IMO.
I wouldn't suggest going that route, I did and bent it first trip out. Then I had another one made out of solid 1.25 tool steel and bent it again. I now have 1 1/2 DOM. I think that you just get a lot more strength with the larger diameter.
 

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Here is what one looks like after a couple hits.


Here is what one looks like after one too many hits:


And here is what one looks like after you make it out of solid aluminum
Mine looks somewhere in between pic 1 and 2. Still works fine so Im not terribly worried about it.
 

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I think if I were to do it again I would get a treaded 1.25" dom tubing that is available out there.
1.25" is going to be smaller DIA and weaker than the factory tie rod material

I wouldn't suggest going that route, I did and bent it first trip out. Then I had another one made out of solid 1.25 tool steel and bent it again. I now have 1 1/2 DOM. I think that you just get a lot more strength with the larger diameter.
For the guys getting parts to build their own tie rods I'd take a look at using 4130 heat treated material (part # PPM-3502-54). It's the exact same material we use in the Synergy JK replacement TR.
 
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