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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys here's my first "newbie" question. I'm about to order a new Rubicon, automatic with 4.10's. I'm thinking a teraflex 3" with 8 flex arms and the fox shocks. I'm also wanting to run 37's. My question is what NEEDS to be done to run this? From reading it sounds like drive shafts should be replaced so I'm thinking Tom Woods. So what else? Safety is important here as I will have my wife and kids with me. Not trying to build a serious rock crawler just go up some mild trails. Thanks in advance
 

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For mild trails, 37s will be overkill.

There are a few other threads on this, but 37s put a lot more strain on your front end and axles. I ended up changing all drag link, tie rod, hydro assist, and a good bit of axle work. I'm sure I'm missing a few things. Also, a lot will depend on the type of trails you run and your driving style.


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For the use you are describing, I would stick with 35's. When you go 37's, it opens a whole new can of worms.........
 

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"Necessary" is a tough one. What is necessary vs just really good to have? Regardless, here's the list: c-gussets, truss and/or sleeves, hd ball joints, hd tie rod, bigger brakes, hydro assist steering, drag link flip. I think I've got 'em all, but someone will chime in if I missed anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. My reason for 37's was strictly cosmetic. I don't believe that I'll be doing anything that needs bigger than 35's. If I run 35's is the driveshaft still an issue?
 

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Drive shaft wouldn't be an issue with 35s, I still run my stock rear drive shaft with 37s and holding up fine, although I do have an adams driveshaft sitting in the garage for when it breaks
 

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For the use you are describing, I would stick with 35's. When you go 37's, it opens a whole new can of worms.........
IT IS A BIG CAN OF WORMS. you will need a lot more mods. Where do I start.

My steering box was hammered to be very loose at the pitman arm. New steering box and also hydraulic ram assist to prevent it from happening again. Truly is the way to go. Steering becomes easier once again as well. WTOR.

AXLE SHAFTS FOR FRONT. I went rcv. Stock kept breaking. Loved rcv.

Driveshafts are really about lift height. 3" should be your lift height limit to remain stock ds. It will wear out otherwise. You will notice driving down the highway improved for less drive train vibes.

If you lift is setup properly and higher than 4" as it should be for 37"s than you will also want steering correction and raised the trackbar mount locations to improve rollover Center (handling and bump steer).
 

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As said, 35's is the way to go....that will be a blast on the trail, and you are fine with the 4.10's on the road.....it will perform cool, it will look cool, it will work well, and you won't need a mountain of cash.
 

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like everyone else said, 37's are beyond the limit of anything factory.

i only have 35's and did a lot just to keep everything strong and wheeling the way it should.

main things being Prorock44 and ram assist
 

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If you lift is setup properly and higher than 4" as it should be for 37"s

You don't need 4" or more of suspension lift to run 37's.

2.5 and 3.5, properly bump stopped, will work w 37's all day long. And I'm not talking about just mall crawling, real wheeling.

2.5 for some may leave the belly a little low on a 4dr but that's a different subject.
 

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If its just for cosmetic reasons you can run metal cloak flat fenders and fit 37's with no lift and 4.5" bs wheels. You can run around all day on the streets but the performance will be a bit lacking with the 4.10 gears. You really won't need anything else and will have a great looking jeep that makes a bit more sense for just driving around. Once you start lifting is where you start dumping money into it as you change the geometry of the system.

37's will wear thing out faster on the jeep even if just driving on the road, things like ball joints, unit bearings, tie rod ends (TRE's) and brakes will need to be addressed more often then a stock jeep so just be prepared to spend more on maintenance.

Hydraulic assist would be a nice addition to 37's but not needed and will help take stress off the steering box.

For looks and performance 35's with flat fenders and a 4.5" bs wheel or 1.5" wheel adapters would be a better route to go and tires will be quite a bit cheaper.
 

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If its just for cosmetic reasons you can run metal cloak flat fenders and fit 37's with no lift and 4.5" bs wheels. You can run around all day on the streets but the performance will be a bit lacking with the 4.10 gears. You really won't need anything else and will have a great looking jeep that makes a bit more sense for just driving around. Once you start lifting is where you start dumping money into it as you change the geometry of the system.

37's will wear thing out faster on the jeep even if just driving on the road, things like ball joints, unit bearings, tie rod ends (TRE's) and brakes will need to be addressed more often then a stock jeep so just be prepared to spend more on maintenance.

Hydraulic assist would be a nice addition to 37's but not needed and will help take stress off the steering box.

For looks and performance 35's with flat fenders and a 4.5" bs wheel or 1.5" wheel adapters would be a better route to go and tires will be quite a bit cheaper.
:koolaid:Exactly my thoughts. Metalcloak Fenders. Great company to work with. And they have Free Shipping right now for Black Friday. Metalcloak doesn't have sales very often. Take advantage. I am... I bought the Overline fenders front and rear. Cant wait.
http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Wrangler-Overline-Fender-System-s/312.htm
 

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main things being Prorock44 and ram assist
I put on 100000miles on my jeep and ran two sets of 37"s on it during my ownership. What he says is true. I sleeved and gusseted my stock front axle and which I also did the artec bracing.

You don't need 4" or more of suspension lift to run 37's.

2.5 and 3.5, properly bump stopped, will work w 37's all day long. And I'm not talking about just mall crawling, real wheeling.

2.5 for some may leave the belly a little low on a 4dr but that's a different subject.
4" lift was too low. I ran 6" in the end that was great plus still stable but not as stable as 4" of lift felt. I wanted 6" for break over clearance in a jku. I would do 6" with a jk.

If you take out a lot of metal than I would agree 2.5" lift can be done no guest ion. I just can't do that with a jku. It will not have proper break over clearance for offroad.
 

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I ran 37 this summer and only had to replace one unit bearing last week on my 12 JKUR. It's not sluggish with stock gears, I have no axle upgrades. I did wreck a driveshaft because of my bad pinion angle, so I adjusted that and got a cheap take off drive shaft to replace it for next year and will see how long that lasts.
 

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I destroyed stock front axles shafts with a locked stock 3.21 gears and 33s. I'm going 37s because I wheel places with names like "HardRock," so my wheeling isn't "mild."
 
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