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The automatic sway bar disconnect on my 2 door Rubicon quit working this weekend. I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this problem or has any ideas on the fix.

We were at the Anza Borrego Desert State Park for 2 days. After the first day of wheeling, the sway bar didn't reconnect for about 5 minutes after I hit the switch. I tried turning both ways slowly thinking that maybe the Jeep wasn't quite level. Nothing seemed to help and then it just reconnected.

After the second day, it just wouldn't reconnect at all. I tried turning in both directions and tried putting one front wheel at a time up on a curb. Nothing seemed to work. We drove home for 13 hours with the blinking light. It did reconnect once along the way and like a fool I decided to try disconnecting it again to see if all was well. It didn't reconnect.

I did notice a lot of "creaking" of the suspension when we were wheeling, particularly under high articulation. I don't remember that being there before and it seemed to come and go. It made me think maybe the sway bar wasn't actually disconnecting properly.

I took it to the dealership. They said nothing was wrong as it reconnected while it was there when they had it level. I tried disconnecting it once while there and it never reconnected. They decided to order a new "motor" for it and give that a try.

I have a 3.5" RE lift with longer sway bar links (the sway bar is pretty much horizontal at ride height). The links don't "fold over" under full droop like some have experienced.

Anyone else seen or heard of anything like this or have any ideas?
 

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I have heard of quite a few people that have had this problem. It sounds like yours is the same. People are saying they can hear the motor when they push the button but it never phisically connects and you got the flashy light and sometimes it will connect for a moment just to unconnect.

It seems like the only people that got thier problem resoved had the entire assembley replaced. Some people had just parts of it replaced liek the motor or control box and the problem was still there.

I did hear one guy say that he was having the problem and what he started doing was hitting the button and jumping out and pushing on the Jeeep so it sways side to side till he heard the click.

Sorry to hear you hve the same issue, hopefully your dealership is cool enough just to replace the entire assembly
 

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Maybe one of the end links is in a bind? Have you inspected the end links to see if they look OK?
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Maybe one of the end links is in a bind? Have you inspected the end links to see if they look OK?
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The links are fine. They have manual disconnect pins which aren't really used with the automatic disconnect. But, just to try and diagnose the problem, we disconnected them and moved both ends of the sway bar up and down - they move freely so it is truly disconnected. And, no matter how we tried to align the two ends, it simply wouldn't reconnect.
 

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Well I had a problem with my swaybar disco. My truck is still stock and the other day I was about to drop into a trail and I hit the button, the light just kept flashing. After like 5 min i got a little suspicious pushed the button again, the light kept flashing. After a whole day of wheeling the light just kept flashing. Took it in to the dealership and they said there was a sensor on the swaybar assembly that was full of water and had corroded away. I got it back last night and all was fixed after a one week wait for parts. I think the best thing to fix all of the swaybar disconecting problems is to just remove the entire assembly! I am planning on doing that when I install my lift, in about a week or so. I am planning on using a front swaybar and brackets from a non Rubicon model, I will post pics.
 
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Well I had a problem with my swaybar disco. My truck is still stock and the other day I was about to drop into a trail and I hit the button, the light just kept flashing. After like 5 min i got a little suspicious pushed the button again, the light kept flashing. After a whole day of wheeling the light just kept flashing. Took it in to the dealership and they said there was a sensor on the swaybar assembly that was full of water and had corroded away. I got it back last night and all was fixed after a one week wait for parts. I think the best thing to fix all of the swaybar disconecting problems is to just remove the entire assembly! I am planning on doing that when I install my lift, in about a week or so. I am planning on using a front swaybar and brackets from a non Rubicon model, I will post pics.
Getting rid of the auto disconnect would certainly solve the problem. But, I really like the convenience of not having to slide under the Jeep, get greasy, etc. Hopefully they'll be able to fix mine. If not, or if it continues to be problematic, I guess it'll go manual again. Sort of sucks to pay the extra money for the Rubicon, throw away the tires, swap out the gears, replace the axle shafts and driveshafts, trash the auto disco, etc.
 

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Well I had a problem with my swaybar disco. My truck is still stock and the other day I was about to drop into a trail and I hit the button, the light just kept flashing. After like 5 min i got a little suspicious pushed the button again, the light kept flashing. After a whole day of wheeling the light just kept flashing. Took it in to the dealership and they said there was a sensor on the swaybar assembly that was full of water and had corroded away. I got it back last night and all was fixed after a one week wait for parts. I think the best thing to fix all of the swaybar disconecting problems is to just remove the entire assembly! I am planning on doing that when I install my lift, in about a week or so. I am planning on using a front swaybar and brackets from a non Rubicon model, I will post pics.
So are you selling your e. swaybar assembly once you swap?

You could keep it installed and just make it a manual. No more flashing light, looking for level ground, etc. etc...
 

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sway bar

I've had prob with mine as well and still running stock. I read you was running 3.5 Rubi lift, if you dont mind me asking how well do you like it and how does it perform compared to the Tj RE lifts, also are oyu running stock gears and comments on that, one more question what about your drive shafts front and rear. Sorry to change subject and would appreciate any info,thanks.
 

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i have had mine replaced 3 times, the third time i was not even useing it it just fried, the connector pins were fused. I was driveing on a dirt road (maintained) straight line and just started flashing. no problems since i have lifted (so far) wood wood
 
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I've had prob with mine as well and still running stock. I read you was running 3.5 Rubi lift, if you dont mind me asking how well do you like it and how does it perform compared to the Tj RE lifts, also are oyu running stock gears and comments on that, one more question what about your drive shafts front and rear. Sorry to change subject and would appreciate any info,thanks.
I'm pretty happy with the lift. Now that the little problems have been taken care of it seems to perform pretty well. As far as installation difficulties, there are a couple of things to watch out for:

I had a clearance problem with the rear track bar and the relocation bracket hitting on the bolt on bump stop "pad" on the passenger side. The pad had to be modified. Also, the front track bar seems to be fairly light duty and I replaced mine with a Full Traction bar. The lift uses the stock rear track bar (not adjustable) and my rear axle seems to be offset about a quarter to half an inch.

I replaced both my diff covers with Riddler cast iron models. The front cover hit both of the front track bars I tried so I had to go back to stock.

I did replace my gears with 4.88's (Superior). I like the overall ratio as it's fairly close to the stock ratio with the 35's (it's actually just a little bit lower). I think 5.13's would be fine, too - I was just trying to keep the street performance relatively close to stock. The rear gears were very noisy after installation but have quieted down a bit now - they're louder than stock but acceptable.

I'm running the JE Reel 1350 style driveshafts front and rear. They seem fine. I do have a vibration that I feel mostly through the steering wheel at an indicated speed between 40 mph and 50 mph. I don't know if this is a driveline vibration or not, but I suspect it is.

Overall, the components of the lift seem to be high quality and it does perform pretty well. It seems to articulate nicely. It's fully adjustable (except for the rear track bar) and is quiet - no clicks or thunks. The Jeep is very darty in a crosswind but I suspect this is an alignment or castor issue that I'm still working on.

Hope this helps. If you have other questions, just ask.
 

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Mine's been slow to reconnect sometime, but usually does it within a shirt distance. I've noticed that when you go into 2WD the light will sometimes flash for sometime even though it's reconnected, pressing the button (ie: to off) cures the problem.

I'm expecting mine to break one day, and when it does I'll try and get it replaced under warranty and if I can will eBay the new one, then switch to a solid sway bar with quick discos.
 
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I finally got this problem fixed. The local dealership (Lithia Chrysler Jeep/ Reno) really gave me great service on this. They replaced the sway bar and electronic disconnect under warranty. It now works fine again. I can't say enough about how the dealership handled this. I was expecting that I might have some issues given the lift and other modifications. But, they worked with me on it and went out of their way to cover it. They even removed and replaced the Shrockworks skid plates (not a trivial task) in the process.

Dealerships seem to get a lot of bad press in these forums. My experience with these guys has always been really great and I think it's appropriate to point out the good stories, too.

One thing I learned along the way is that if you have the sway bar disconnected when you're in 4 lo and then shut the engine off/ restart, the sway bar stays disconnected. However, if you happen to have it disconnected in 4 Hi and shut the engine off/ restart, it reverts to the "connected" state. You might not notice this and may find yourself wheeling with your sway bar connected unless you pay attention to the lights.
 

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Hey guys, I'm posting this here. Please crosspost if it would be better somewhere else. My sway bar stopped working on my 08. The light would just blink at me. For a while, if I disconnected the battery for a reset, it would function.

SO, I finally tore it apart. I found corrosion and a lack of grease. I cleaned the shit out of it, removed the corrosion with a rust remover from amazon and a wire brush, and greased it. It works now, after a test drive.

If your sway bar dies, you may be able to tear it apart, clean it, grease it, and put it back together. Here is what I found:

Before:


Clean:


All greased up:


Here is the tear down procedure, kinda: http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41373
 
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