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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

Just ordered one today and wanted to know what to expect when installing it and if you think i will have to get a new driveshaft for the rear.

I have searched a few forums but have not really found alot of first hand experiance so i am hoping to find some on here.

Thanks

07 Rubicon 2 door

I am going to be running interco truxus 35x12.50x17 inch tires
 

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I don't have anyy first hand experience and I have heard a few people ssay they are running 3.5 with no issues related to the drive shaft...

I think you could probably get away without vibrations at 3.5 but RE is usually a little higher then advertised. I wouldbe concerned for longevity sake considering the C/V joint used. Your angels will be right about thier limit. You do not need a SYE s it is a fixed yoke..To me it is one of those, little bit $$ now or $$$$+pain in the ass later types of things

http://www.4xshaft.com/JK-jeep.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i am hoping i do not have to get to much more stuff to make it work lol.

Was told it would work fine with no driveline mods but still worried about that.
 

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New front and rear driveshafts are strongly reconmended by Rubicon Express for the 2dr JK with 3.5" of lift. Front will be required if you want to use the full potential of your shock travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I figure i will install the lift and take a look at the angles and see.

If i need new ones then i will get them before driving it i can always run around in my YJ
 
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I have the RE 3.5" lift on my 2 door JK with 35X12.5X15 tires. I did replace both driveshafts with JE Reel 1350 style shafts. I have a slight vibration that I feel through the steering wheel, probably driveline related. The installer has checked the pinion angles and played with things quite a bit but it's still there. Personally, I'd recommend changing your driveshafts just to be on the safe side.

One other difficulty that you might want to keep an eye out for is a possible clearance issue at the back on the passenger side. I had issues with the relocated track bar hitting on the RE bump stop "pad" that bolts to the axle. The final solution was simple but the pad had to me modified. I think that one may or may not see this problem based on the pinion angle you end up running.

Other things you might want to watch are the centering of the rear axle. The RE kit uses the factory rear track bar with a relocating bracket. My axle seems to be off center by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

I ended up replacing the front track bar with a Full Traction bar which seems to be a lot more stout. If you decide to replace the front diff cover with a cast iron "armored" version, be very careful. I did this and it ended up interfering with the both of the front track bars that I tried when the axle was at full compression - I ended up going back to the factory cover.
 

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I have the RE 3.5" lift on my 2 door JK with 35X12.5X15 tires. I did replace both driveshafts with JE Reel 1350 style shafts. I have a slight vibration that I feel through the steering wheel, probably driveline related. The installer has checked the pinion angles and played with things quite a bit but it's still there. Personally, I'd recommend changing your driveshafts just to be on the safe side.

One other difficulty that you might want to keep an eye out for is a possible clearance issue at the back on the passenger side. I had issues with the relocated track bar hitting on the RE bump stop "pad" that bolts to the axle. The final solution was simple but the pad had to me modified. I think that one may or may not see this problem based on the pinion angle you end up running.

Other things you might want to watch are the centering of the rear axle. The RE kit uses the factory rear track bar with a relocating bracket. My axle seems to be off center by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

I ended up replacing the front track bar with a Full Traction bar which seems to be a lot more stout. If you decide to replace the front diff cover with a cast iron "armored" version, be very careful. I did this and it ended up interfering with the both of the front track bars that I tried when the axle was at full compression - I ended up going back to the factory cover.
What pinion angles are you running?
 
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What pinion angles are you running?
I'd measure them for you but the Jeep is at the dealership getting a bunch of stuff fixed. I believe the rear is around 14 degrees, but that's just from recollection. I never measured the front.

When I get the vehicle back, I'll measure them and post the numbers.
 

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I believe the rear is around 14 degrees, but that's just from recollection. I never measured the front.
Thats sounds like a lot!

I know on the front if I go beyond 7.5° I get a lot of vibration from the drive shaft (JE Reel). I'm waiting for some adjustable upper control arms, but aiming for about 3° or 4° on the front (depending on how bad caster gets), the rear is fine on an Unlimited, so can't comment about the 2 dr rear shaft.
 
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Thats sounds like a lot!

I know on the front if I go beyond 7.5° I get a lot of vibration from the drive shaft (JE Reel). I'm waiting for some adjustable upper control arms, but aiming for about 3° or 4° on the front (depending on how bad caster gets), the rear is fine on an Unlimited, so can't comment about the 2 dr rear shaft.
My recollection may be off, I'll check it when I get the Jeep back. Visually, the pinion shaft appears "lined up" with the driveshaft. I think there was about 1 to 2 degrees difference between them.

My castor at the front was about 4 degrees (roughly). The high pinion diff makes for a better match with the driveshaft than in the rear.

My vehicle is VERY "darty" in a cross wind. I'd like to dial in some more castor but I'm afraid that will increase the vibration that I have. I'm having the toe in checked just to see if it might be "toed out". If it's not that, I'll probably experiment with the castor, though 4 degrees seems reasonable based on the factory specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where did you get the JE Reel 1350 style shafts and how do you like them.
 
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Where did you get the JE Reel 1350 style shafts and how do you like them.
Shaffers Offroad did the install. They ordered the driveshafts but I don't know which vendor they may have used.

They look very strong and the grease fittings are relatively easy to get to, which is nice and makes regular maintenance a lot easier. I don't know whether the vibration I'm feeling is attributable to the driveshafts, the pinion angles, something else or it's just me. Other than that possibility, I like the driveshafts fine.
 

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They look very strong and the grease fittings are relatively easy to get to, which is nice and makes regular maintenance a lot easier.
The grease fittings on the ball in the double cardan are nigh on impossible to get to with the shafts in place, and the oustide UJ on the double cardan is real hard to get to also. I swapped all my UJ's out for Spicer lifetime ones for that reason, and will just pull the shafts every six months or so to deal with the centering ball.

I don't know whether the vibration I'm feeling is attributable to the driveshafts, the pinion angles, something else or it's just me.
On the four door at least, the rear angles are fine in terms of vibration. On the front, I found that if the pinion angle is past about 7.5* then the vibration gets bad. The quick way to tell is to pull the front shaft and see if the vibration goes away. It did for me, so I just adjusted the pinion angle until it went away, (which left me with about 2.5* caster which although out of spec is fine also in terms of how it steers).
 

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I was looking at the install instructions for this lift. (4door).

The stock tranns skid has to be removed and won't be replaced due to drive shaft angle...

Is there another tranny skid that will fit with this lift?


anyone.. anyone... Bueller?
 

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Is there another tranny skid that will fit with this lift?
Why not just trim the skid plate around the drive shaft and use the factory one?

I have 4.5" lift albeit with after market drive shafts which are narrower and only get the slightest contact on the factory skid.
 

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Why not just trim the skid plate around the drive shaft and use the factory one?

I have 4.5" lift albeit with after market drive shafts which are narrower and only get the slightest contact on the factory skid.
Trimmed mine too and I'm still on factory drive shafts. The front is starting to sling grease after 3 months. Guess it's time to order a new one.
 
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