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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,
I bought a 2012 Rubicon several weeks back w/ about 100k miles on it. Got new stock tires, the mud terrain BF Goodrich - cold 36 lbs. The warranty on it covered and replaced the ball joints. Now it rides much better than before. However, it still feels like I need to do more work to keep it running in a straight line on the highway than I would normally expect. The dealer checked it out, and had aligned it. I took it back last night and they said it looked fine. Suspension is stock except for Zone shocks. The mechanic said that Rubi's tend to wander a little bit.
The vehicle tends to sort of gyrate diagonally if I am adjusting to a curve or hit a bounce in the road or a good wind. I realize a tall square vehicle like this will behave that way, especially due to wind. But it just seems like it should not travel this much. I'll post some pics of the front-end as I'm guessing someone is going to ask.
 

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The diagonal gyration is shocks. If you mean it tends to bounce opposite corners through a curve. I had same issue.

If you have new tires they need to get a few miles on them till they find their groove so to speak.

If the caster is correct and the front end is good according to the shop id drive it a bit more to get your tire broke in.

100k on tie rod and drag link ends as well as hub bearings id replace those as well, but thats just me. Contol arm and track bar bushings may be worn too.

Look for new take off parts shocks, sway bar ends, control arms and track bars, and repalce them free. Someone is always giving that stuff away and then you'd have a new susp under it aside from the hubs and ends
 

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Zone shocks aren't widely touted as being a great shock, but the reviews aren't all bad, either. Still, i would do some research and look to upgrade for a smoother ride.
If your ball joints were toast some of your other bushings are likely done also.
Jeep also uses a 14 mm non-shouldered bolt for the track bar in 9/16" holes. This allows the bolt to move and oval out the hole with the non shouldered threads acting like a file. The control arm bolts are also file like non-shouldered bolts. This is not going to help your road feel. Replacement bolt/hardware kits are available from Rebel, synergy and Northridge4x4. Your local bolt supply might have them.
Tires also can have an effect as they wear in, my stock BFG's rode like round bricks.
 

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I got an 08 used a few months ago and it was at 88k miles. I had to replace the tie rod and both ends along with the drag link and ends. I also had a wheel barring assembly going out so just replaced both allong with the steering stabliser. I got new Rubi take offs and still have a little wonder on the highway. I dropped the tire pressure down 2 lbs and seams to be better.
 

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My Rubi didnt wander at all stock unless it was very windy. Your Mechanic is full of shit. At 100k I would look at replacing the tie rod ends and as has been said I would look for some low mile stock take off control arms which can come from any JK model (sport, rubi, and sahara) as they are all the same, or replace the bushings in the ones you have. You might even be able to get some take off rubicon shocks which are nice.
 

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The diagonal dipping going through corners curves could also be shot springs.

Like I said look for new take offs and replace your susp for free. I just gave away all my stock rubi susp parts....... thatsbthe cheapest and easiest way to get new everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The diagonal gyration is shocks. If you mean it tends to bounce opposite corners through a curve. I had same issue.

If you have new tires they need to get a few miles on them till they find their groove so to speak.

If the caster is correct and the front end is good according to the shop id drive it a bit more to get your tire broke in.

100k on tie rod and drag link ends as well as hub bearings id replace those as well, but thats just me. Contol arm and track bar bushings may be worn too.

Look for new take off parts shocks, sway bar ends, control arms and track bars, and repalce them free. Someone is always giving that stuff away and then you'd have a new susp under it aside from the hubs and ends
Thanks for the info. Maybe these Zone shocks are more heavy duty than I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Zone shocks aren't widely touted as being a great shock, but the reviews aren't all bad, either. Still, i would do some research and look to upgrade for a smoother ride.
If your ball joints were toast some of your other bushings are likely done also.
Jeep also uses a 14 mm non-shouldered bolt for the track bar in 9/16" holes. This allows the bolt to move and oval out the hole with the non shouldered threads acting like a file. The control arm bolts are also file like non-shouldered bolts. This is not going to help your road feel. Replacement bolt/hardware kits are available from Rebel, synergy and Northridge4x4. Your local bolt supply might have them.
Tires also can have an effect as they wear in, my stock BFG's rode like round bricks.
I saw a video or two about the 14 mm, wrong size bolts. Seems pretty odd but makes sense to do the fix.
thx.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got an 08 used a few months ago and it was at 88k miles. I had to replace the tie rod and both ends along with the drag link and ends. I also had a wheel barring assembly going out so just replaced both allong with the steering stabliser. I got new Rubi take offs and still have a little wonder on the highway. I dropped the tire pressure down 2 lbs and seams to be better.
Are you running the BFG mud terrain tires? What pressure are you happy with?
thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My Rubi didnt wander at all stock unless it was very windy. Your Mechanic is full of shit. At 100k I would look at replacing the tie rod ends and as has been said I would look for some low mile stock take off control arms which can come from any JK model (sport, rubi, and sahara) as they are all the same, or replace the bushings in the ones you have. You might even be able to get some take off rubicon shocks which are nice.
How does one get in the queue for take offs?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The diagonal dipping going through corners curves could also be shot springs.

Like I said look for new take offs and replace your susp for free. I just gave away all my stock rubi susp parts....... thatsbthe cheapest and easiest way to get new everything.
I'm on-board with the take off scenario. How do I make it known that I'm available to accept free stuff? :)
 

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I'm on-board with the take off scenario. How do I make it known that I'm available to accept free stuff? :)
Start checking the local for sale forums all over fb and internet. They are out there.

My diagonal dipping thru curves was bad shocks but weak factory springs because I had stock susp with aftermarket bumpers front and rear and a winch. The factory susp isnt rated to have that kind of weight on its nose and arse.

I kept blowing my factory rubi shocks but they were covered by warranty :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Start checking the local for sale forums all over fb and internet. They are out there.

My diagonal dipping thru curves was bad shocks but weak factory springs because I had stock susp with aftermarket bumpers front and rear and a winch. The factory susp isnt rated to have that kind of weight on its nose and arse.

I kept blowing my factory rubi shocks but they were covered by warranty :)
Do you all know if these guys are reputable? I wonder how I'd know that these springs and shocks indeed had under 100 miles. It sounds like they are take offs - http://www.rubitrux.com/jeep-wrangler-rubicon-shocks-springs.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Shocks

After some more studying, I've decided that shocks are what I want to mess with first. I don't seem to have the symptoms of needing springs, from what I've read. So, the question is whether to go relatively cheap with oem take offs, or buy new possibly Rancho RS9000XL. At the moment I'm more interested in road comfort. Any other recommendations for a good road shock that wouldn't break the bank like the Rancho?

thanks for any suggestions.
 

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You can get the new Rancho 5000x shocks for $200 ish.

Where are you located. I have factory arms i could get you for shipping.
 

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Just for the hell of it try airing down some, to about 28lbs. Then air up incrementally back towards where you are now.
I never had stock tires on mine but if I run that much air in my 35"s it is a miserable wandering bitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
You can get the new Rancho 5000x shocks for $200 ish.

Where are you located. I have factory arms i could get you for shipping.
I don't know if it's good logic, but I think if I don't go for the adjustable Rancho, I probably would go with oem take offs for the sake of price.
By the way; what's the difference between the 5000 and 5000x ? And do you own these and do you like them for road use?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just for the hell of it try airing down some, to about 28lbs. Then air up incrementally back towards where you are now.
I never had stock tires on mine but if I run that much air in my 35"s it is a miserable wandering bitch.
Yeah, that's the question; where to start. I do have a compressor, so it's not a big deal that I have add. Either way, some air is coming out today.
 
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